some turboing questions....

now that im looking for parts for a turbo setup, sometings can be made instead of bought.
like all of the piping things, like downpipe, intake pipe(if the flange isnt too funky), and intercooler piping.
also things like gaskets, can be made.
so are the above things makable if your good with piping and that kind of stuff?

also, i dont know much about intercoolers other than how they work, and i want a fm not sm ic on my g, so is there a difference on what intercoolers i can use, or will any one that fits work?
also, are all fuel pumps different on cars? or do they all fit onto each other?
and....what are these oil supply lines, and water lines like? are they flexible? if so, cant i just use any stainless braided lines instead of ones meant for a 2g?

I personally am not one to trust home made gaskets but if you are, go for it. In total though, I think I only spent around $30 for all the gaskets I needed. My IC piping consists of radiator hose, couplers, and exhaust pipe... but it's not the most efficient and is only temporary. When you say you're 'good with piping', do you mean you're going to bend some metal piping to your needs? If so, I say go for it... Same goes for intake pipe (I used the 1G pipe because it had the nipples needed).

If you yourself are making the downpipe, good deal... if not, you might as well just get the 2G downpipe as it'll be much cheaper than having a shop do it for you.

There are so many options when it comes to intercoolers that I'll pass on that question. I personally am planning on a GReddy air-to-air, tube and fin intercooler. But yes, pretty much any intercooler can work if you can fit it (which is by far the biggest issue).

Depending on what fuel pump you get, it may or not fit. The most common choice among the DSM community are the Walbro pumps if you're running higher boost levels. Your stock pump will flow fine if rewired to just over 10psi.

I highly recommend the RRE oil feed and turbochargers.com oil return, but yes you could rig something up with the right fittings and some SS line. For the water lines, you should get at least the metal sections of the ones made for whatever turbo you choose... the rest of the hose you can use whatever. You need the metal sections near the turbo due to the obvious heat.

Hope that helps.

I made my own intercooler piping but I bought my downpipe and intake pipe. If I get my car running soon, I am going to make another set of intercooler piping, but this time I am going to weld everything. If they turn out good, I may start making piping kits for you 7gers who want a side to side fmic :wink:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>I made my own intercooler piping but I bought my downpipe and intake pipe. Â*If I get my car running soon, I am going to make another set of intercooler piping, but this time I am going to weld everything. Â*If they turn out good, I may start making piping kits for you 7gers who want a side to side fmic Â*:wink:</div>

:shock:

Please do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brandon

I personally am not one to trust home made gaskets but if you are, go for it. In total though, I think I only spent around $30 for all the gaskets I needed. My IC piping consists of radiator hose, couplers, and exhaust pipe... but it's not the most efficient and is only temporary. When you say you're 'good with piping', do you mean you're going to bend some metal piping to your needs? If so, I say go for it... Same goes for intake pipe (I used the 1G pipe because it had the nipples needed).

If you yourself are making the downpipe, good deal... if not, you might as well just get the 2G downpipe as it'll be much cheaper than having a shop do it for you.

There are so many options when it comes to intercoolers that I'll pass on that question. I personally am planning on a GReddy air-to-air, tube and fin intercooler. But yes, pretty much any intercooler can work if you can fit it (which is by far the biggest issue).

Depending on what fuel pump you get, it may or not fit. The most common choice among the DSM community are the Walbro pumps if you're running higher boost levels. Your stock pump will flow fine if rewired to just over 10psi.

I highly recommend the RRE oil feed and turbochargers.com oil return, but yes you could rig something up with the right fittings and some SS line. For the water lines, you should get at least the metal sections of the ones made for whatever turbo you choose... the rest of the hose you can use whatever. You need the metal sections near the turbo due to the obvious heat.

Hope that helps.

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o ok thanks, that helps a lot. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif


but do fuel pumps from other cars, like ones that put out more lph, fit on other cars?
like will one from a lets say, mustang, fit onto my car?

also, im having trouble finding down pipes for some reason :?
how much did yours cost, and where do they sell it?

Get a downpipe from any 95-99 Turbo Eclipse GST/Talon TSi FWD. Bolts up perfectly. I bought the ERZ 3" downpipe off eBay.

whats this part of the down pipe? i mean the middle part that has that crossed metal.
http://8814.hostinglogin.com/erzgstdownpipe2.jpg

also, people with fmic, what did u guys do to your tranny cooler when u put in your intercooler?
did u put the intercooler in front of it?
and would it help the life of my tranny if i put a better tranny cooler on it?

and......

what does this oil return line have that makes it worth 45 bucks?http://turbochargers.com/Images/Acce...raidedLine.jpg


and...

did u guys put a larger exhuast on your turboed car, or did u keep the stock one?
i want to put a larger one becuase i imagine it would give a lot more horsepower, but then i have to the wastegate flapper mod and ported o2 sensor housing or some crap like that, in order to prevent boost creep.
so are the mods hard to do, or is it not even worth changing my exhaust sytem for it?

That is the flex pipe, your stock downpipe even has a flex pipe.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...133_5_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...133_4_full.jpg

I got rid of my cooler. I did the 5spd swap and 5spd trannies do not have them.

ya i noticed my stock dp has it, but what is it?
becuase if i want to make my own dp, i cant put that thing on.

I have no idea how to use a safc at all, so it hard to tune with?
becuase i seem to have 2 choices, do the turbo ecu swap, which seems to be a pain in the ass, or get a safc.
if i do get the safc, will it do everything the ecu will do?
whichone should i get?

Its there to take some of the flex when the engine acelerates/decel. If you dont have it expect a lot of cracking to be going on on your exhaust flanges/welds.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33633
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33633
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33633

ooo shit, well thats not good.

also, where did u guys get your injectors? i dont wanna use the stock ones with the resistor pack wired in, but the aftermarket ones are too expensive.
am i better off with the stock 450cc?

Depends on the setup. Im using my stock 510cc injectors that came with my evo3 4g63t, but I am also using a big 16g. 450cc is fine with a medium boosted 14b.

what is the difference between 1g and 2g exhaust manifold?
what is the difference between a 14b and 16g?

they both mathc right up right?
and the stocck turbo is a t25 right?

if u used 510cc, then what size injectors would be good for a 16g?

and if the difference between a 14b and a 16g is the size, then wouldnt it spool up faster?
i dont see what the diff between the 14 and 16 is, its not like where tryign to top out the turbos psi or something.

Difference between 1g and 2g exhaust manifolds is that 1g manifolds tend to crack do to their age and design. 2g manis flow slightly better and are strong.

16g is bigger and has a bigger compressor wheel. The exhaust housing is also bigger. A 14b will spool faster than a big 16g. Good injectors for an evo 3 16g would be around 550cc -620cc.

wait, so if a 14b spools faster, then why get the 16g if both can achieve the same psi?

does the 16g give more power at the same rpm?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GalantGuy96

wait, so if a 14b spools faster, then why get the 16g if both can achieve the same psi?

does the 16g give more power at the same rpm?

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You get more cfm from a 16g than a 14b... b/c the 14b is smaller it doesn't need as much gas to spool up... comparing the 2 is kinda tough, but I'd have to go w/ the 16g... b/c you don't wanna spool too soon in a fwd car unless you wanna spin... and w/ the 16g you'll make a lil more power than the 14b.... If your not planning on some high numbers then I'd go w/ the 14b... (cheaper https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ult/tongue.gif ) If you are though, just invest in some tires and a lsd...

wow, it spools fast enough to burn in place?
does anyone know what rpm you get full boost?

A few things...

With my 14b I start boosting at 2500RPM and can reach 6-7psi by only 3000-3500RPM.

Traction is NOT a huge issue from a stop... minimal spin if any.

If you plan on keeping the stock internals go with a 14b, a 16g won't be necessary and you'll appreciate how fast the 14b spools.

Get the stock 450s and resistor pack and you'll be fine.

Stock 2g turbo is a T25, stock 1G is a 14b.

I got my injectors from Moosh if I remember correctly... they're always up on ebay and dsmtrader. You should be able to get them for around $50-$60. My 2G GST (2.5") downpipe came from mitsubishigraveyard.com... I think I paid like $75-$100 for it and it was in EXCELLENT shape.

SAFC isn't really hard to use, but I haven't done any serious tuning other than to keep my fuel trims between 0 and +5 at lower RPMs and 0 and -5 at higher RPMs... The key is having a logger. I opted for the pocketlogger software from Digital Tuning. The reason you want the ECU is so that you won't have to compensate for the fuel increase (turbo ECU already mapped for more fuel), and it will also monitor knock and give you better timing.

The turbo ECU isn't necessary so long as you have the ability to adjust air/fuel and don't plan on running higher boost. I would recommend it though and I do plan the swap somewhere down the line. Any 2G turbo ECU will work, and the EPROM ones are best ('95 I believe?).

That oil line you have pictured looks like the feed line... and once you buy the SS line and fittings you'll probably be spending close to that much if you can even find a proper fitting. The $45 is worth avoiding the annoyance, trust me I tried when the first line I bought was missing the fittings.

As for the exhaust, it depends on what setup you finally decide on... with the 14b and considering my car is daily driven and I rarely hit high boost, the 2.5" exhaust is great for quick spooling. Either way, I've heard a lot of guys say they haven't had to worry about creep.

Hope I didn't miss anything. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif

oooo ok thanks, u got everything excpet the tranny cooler question.
and you are an auto right???
also, how much hp are u putting out with your setup?
i want to put out a good amount of hp with stock internals, so should i still get a 14b?
i plan on running 9 psi at the MOST, will the 14b be good enough? cuase it definitly is a lot cheaper.

Right now I have the stock tranny cooler, but I do believe you can buy any universal aftermarket one and just rig it if you want. Level Ten might sell 'em...

I have no real plans to upgrade my tranny until something goes wrong, other than getting the Shiftronic kit.

My guess on horsepower is around 180 right now, but should get closer to 200 with a FMIC and piping.

If you're planning on 9psi, 14b is the best bang for your buck.

Before you start buying anything not to be a smart ass but its obvious that you dont know anything about forced induction, go read up find out how it works.find out what you need to support it find out how all that works, Turbo selection should not be based on price base it on what you are trying to do. The 14b was the turbo they put on all the automatic dsm's the t25 or tdo5h are small 16g's, Any turbo can hit 10 pounds, its selecting one that has the best efficiency and produces the best volume, and yet has the shortest spool time, i have run huge 70 trim wheels that didnt boost until 4600rpms, i have run 20g tdo5h's that put out = volume but spool at 2900, read up before you blow your car up i have years of experience and some things you just have to learn and this is one of them unless you have deeeeeeeeep pockets.

wow.. way to bring back an old post https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif

and the t25 is not a small 16g. and a td05h-14b is not a small 16g either, although they share the same turbine wheel, the compressor wheel is different...

actually.. i just read through the thread, and this has already been answered correctly. why did you bring this back up???

oh, and since i'm already replying to this, brandon, that seems like rather slow spool up for a 14b. the agp l2r (54 lb/min turbo) can reach full spool by 3800rpm on the 2.0L.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sabzi5858)</div><div class='quotemain'>
oh, and since i'm already replying to this, brandon, that seems like rather slow spool up for a 14b. Â*the agp l2r (54 lb/min turbo) can reach full spool by 3800rpm on the 2.0L.</div>

I'll check it again... :wink:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1166gvr4)</div><div class='quotemain'>Before you start buying anything not to be a smart ass but its obvious that you dont know anything about forced induction, go read up find out how it works.find out what you need to support it find out how all that works, Turbo selection should not be based on price base it on what you are trying to do. The 14b was the turbo they put on all the automatic dsm's the t25 or tdo5h are small 16g's, Any turbo can hit 10 pounds, its selecting one that has the best efficiency and produces the best volume, and yet has the shortest spool time, i have run huge 70 trim wheels that didnt boost until 4600rpms, i have run 20g tdo5h's that put out = volume but spool at 2900, read up before you blow your car up i have years of experience and some things you just have to learn and this is one of them unless you have deeeeeeeeep pockets.</div>
You sir, are a retard.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1166gvr4)</div><div class='quotemain'>Before you start buying anything not to be a smart ass but its obvious that you dont know anything about forced induction, go read up find out how it works.find out what you need to support it find out how all that works, Turbo selection should not be based on price base it on what you are trying to do.</div>
I agree, if you dont know anything about it you should research first :roll:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'> The 14b was the turbo they put on all the automatic dsm's</div>
No they didnt. 14b was on the 5spd 1gs, 13gs were on the 1g autos.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>the t25 or tdo5h are small 16g's</div>
What???? The t25 is a t25 and it isnt a tdo5h. And not all td05h are 16gs, some are 14bs, 16gs, big 16gs, 20gs. Its just the compressor housing, doesnt mean its any turbo.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Any turbo can hit 10 pounds, its selecting one that has the best efficiency and produces the best volume, and yet has the shortest spool time</div>
Correct.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>i have run huge 70 trim wheels that didnt boost until 4600rpms, i have run 20g tdo5h's that put out = volume but spool at 2900, read up before you blow your car up i have years of experience and some things you just have to learn and this is one of them unless you have deeeeeeeeep pockets.</div>
For years of experience, you sure dont know your turbos...

yeah, i thought they put 13gs on one of the autos, but i didn't wanna mention it cause i couldn't find it when i did a quick search to confirm :oops: