Gauge Install's

I figured i'd start a post where people can give tutorials on how to install different types of gauges. Most importantly where to install senders.

After talking to a few people about how to install my oil pressure gauge, i was going to go one route but decided to go a different way. that ended up being a lot cheaper.

OIL PRESSURE

At first i was going to use what is basically an add on that goes between the oil filter nad the oil filter housing. This item can be purchased for pretty cheap off Ebay. $30 bucks cool, what ever. So i bought it.

So while i'm changing my oil and going to install the pressure sender, i notice two female allen heads. After furthur inspection i noticed that they are not really "holding" anything on. The oil filter housing is one solid piece. I noticed that inside the oil filter housing there was what looked to be a second indention. Same place where the upper allen head is.

Long story short, the allen heads are plugs. The lower allen is at the bottom of the oil deposit shaft for the filter, the upper allen, looks into the return to the engine after the filter. Or it might be vice verses.

Either way i chose to use the lower plug
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_42_full.jpg

I'm using AutoMeter Gauges, cobalt series and mine came with a sender and also adapter bushing. The adapter bushing didn't fit, so i went to true value, or any other hardware store, and got a 3/8 mp. to 1/8 mp. for $.88 or $.95 after tax.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_43_full.jpg
The adapter appears to not be flush because the nut is angle upward. The adapter is flush along the bottom, but has a lil space on the top side.
The stock oil sensor is just above, i didn't have to touch it at all.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_45_full.jpg
It's up to you to decide where to drill through your fire wall, for now i'll use the hole where my clutch master cylinder goes till i decide to do my swap. Hook up the power, ground and illumination wires in the same manner as the Volt Meter... speaking of which!

Volt Meter

This is the easy so i'll post this one too. Again AutoMeter, and other could be different. Basically you have 3 wires Positive, illumination and ground. I spliced in with the wires that go to my head unit. Voila!!





I'd like to see people post How To's on A/F's, Boost's, Exhaust Temp's, Ammeter. I know some may be pretty simple, but any and all advice does help.

i dont know if you wired in your volt meter in the best spot. because it's spliced in with your head unit, it might not be getting a "full" signal. the head unit is drawing X amount of current through a wire designed to handle X amount. now you wired up a volt meter in the middle of it all. i hard-wired mine to the battery through a 40amp relay, with the ignition wired in so it'll only turn on with the key. thats how all the gauges are on my gauge pod.

i used the switched 12 volt supply to the head unit. The instructions said to use a source with a switched 12 volt supply

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blue Ice

i used the switched 12 volt supply to the head unit. The instructions said to use a source with a switched 12 volt supply

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a relay is the same thing. what i'm saying is, the wire you tapped into is probably maxed on the amount of current its drawing. when you start taking away amps, the voltage drops too, since they work off of each other. a switched 12v supply just means it turns on with the car. at least thats what i assume they're talking about.

the power wire for our head unit is 16gauge i believe? not good enough for both things. run 10 gauge wire to all your gauges and that should be kosher.

if it wasn't so hot i'd take pictures of my boost, egt and a/f gauge installs.

btw, why do you have a voltmeter? arn't you using an afc2? it reads the actual voltage that the ECU is getting. switch to the BAT option when your selecting your channels.

Are you Idling at 13.5?

looks clean

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lazarus

Are you Idling at 13.5?

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that's why i dont think it's accurate. i idle at about 13.9/14v. while cruising it gets over 14.5. then again my tellow top is only a couple months old. i know the 8Gs have a little bit lower of a voltage though.

try hooking up a voltmeter directly to your battery and compare it to the gauge reading. if it's close enough then it's good enough.

yeah i'm idleing at 13.5 or so, but also i figured i did have a pretty heavy load on it. Other thing is i'm using a cheap ass interstate battery, i've had for about a year now. Nope, no afc2 here,

Plus i've been having idle issues with my 165k motor, in gear it'll drop sometimes lower then 300 rpms, so i turned it up so when not in gear it's about 1200, then i turned it back down just before these pics to about 1000, but in gear it'll drop down to about 500, then with the air on, a lil more, and with as hot as it's been i love my AC. Probably just timing issues, but all i really need is to get through then next month or so.

Peano get those pics up for those other gauges, i'll be getting my A/F this week.

Well i was driving today, and i noticed the volt meter was bouncing back and for between 13.8 and 13.6 due to my blinkers or even brakes. Also whenever my subs are turned up and they hit, i'll notice a slight decrease in power.

Since we are talking connection, i am now under the impression that even though i'm connected in with the head unit's 12v supply, i really feel i'm getting an overall reading of the volts for the car.

EGT
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/gauges_1.jpg

first of all, don't be a douchebag like me and hook it up in the downpipe. it's not as accurate, and it's probably not as cold as it says it is. mount in in your #1 runner in the exhaust manifold.

http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/egt_probe_1.jpg
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/egt_probe_2.jpg

pretty basic install. just follow the instructions. probe goes inside, with a bung clamped onto the probe, allowing you to clamp it down to the pipe. there's a fiber crush washer in the middle. they're not reusable, but i've removed the probe twice very carefully and i got lucky i guess.

Boost
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/gauges_2.jpg

Also pretty basic. I did a pretty ghetto rig on mine, only cause it was the last day on the turbo install and i just wanted to get the motor running.

http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/boostline.jpg

Splicing into the vacuum line, i ran a threaded compression fitting to the nylon boost line. inside the rubber vacuum line is actually a threaded male end that mates up pretty well. this is not the proper method, but the best i could do with poorly stocked auto parts stores.

narrowband a/f
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/gauges_3.jpg

i dont have any pics of where i tapped, but this is probably the easiest to install. you can either tap it at the ecu or from the engine bay like i did, which is not the best way. just splice into your pre-cat o2 signal.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>EGT
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/gauges_1.jpg</div>

YIKES!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brandon)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>EGT
http://socallifestyle.com/gauges/gauges_1.jpg</div>

YIKES!</div>

lol, that's where it sits in the off position. don't ask me why

mine did that before i hooked it up. it came in the box at 1300. I got the gauge used with brand new probe and wiring, i was ready to rip some ones ass over it until i hooked it up and it worked fine. now it drops below zero after its turned off.

did any one else have trouble getting out the allen head for the Oil Pressure. Im having a hell of a time trien to get it out, any tips?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mitsubishi_Lover)</div><div class='quotemain'>did any one else have trouble getting out the allen head for the Oil Pressure. Im having a hell of a time trien to get it out, any tips?</div>

yeah, it's harder than arguing with my ex. i had to buy allen sockets that snap onto a standard ratchet and push the shit out of it. even pb blaster did little to help

Does this oil pressure install also work for the 8G too?
Also I was over at club 3g.com looking up ways to install a a/f gauge and they said and showed a pic that tapping the ECU at pin#76 was the way to go. Any truth in this? I just want a more accurate reading than what one would get off the O<span style='font-size:16pt;line-height:100%'>2</span> sensor.

hey what gauge podis that is it made for the 7g or another cars gauge pod?

Voltage all depends on your batt/alt condition. Service is anything out of the range of like 13.2-14.4v or something around there.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TunerDSM95)</div><div class='quotemain'>hey what gauge podis that is it made for the 7g or another cars gauge pod?</div>

94-01 integra. it's great because it traces the pillow pretty accurately, but there's no practical AND cosmetically pleasing way to mount it secure

i like your gauges..

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_45_full.jpg

nice gauges

[quote=

i dont have any pics of where i tapped, but this is probably the easiest to install. you can either tap it at the ecu or from the engine bay like i did, which is not the best way. just splice into your pre-cat o2 signal.[/quote]

there are three wires coming out of the 8g O2 which one should be used?

whichever is the signal wire for the o2 reading. one wire should be 12v+, one should be ground, and then there's the signal wire

there should be four though, an extra wire for the heater circuit, but i know as much about the 8G as i do about islam

i thought i only saw three, but i took a quick look and could be wrong. and that layout it what i though it was with the + ,ground, and sinal i just didnt know which one is which because they are all balck, i think one is black with a white stripe and one is black with a yellow stripe, and the other one is soild black i think. Can anybody shed anylight on this?

this "how to thread" is awesome. thanxs guys! it's too bad I have 3 APC gauges :cry:

does anyone have an air/fuel gauge installed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G&#045;spot

this "how to thread" is awesome. thanxs guys! it's too bad I have 3 APC gauges :cry:
does anyone have an air/fuel gauge installed?

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your air/fuel gauge install is the same as finding the O2 sensor. Follow what the two previous posts are talking about.

nice thread but there are more gauges we can install can we

i received these gauges last christmas and finnaly deicided to install them

http://www.iequus.com/product_info.p...ory_id=100_105

i know they arent the best kind but heh its a start and they arent that important anyway

ok so the box i had was already taped meaning it was returned once before and it doesnt have any instructions :shock:

ok so for the oil pressure, i have to plug a sensor from the gauge to the allen female end near the oil filter, but my kit didnt come with the plug sensor

so can i run a soft or hardline from the gauge to under the car or is it more complicated ?

as for the volt gauges u guys talk about connecting it to the batterie, i though for direct input it was better on the alternator?, i was wrong???

and the finaly one is the water temp...which is the same we have for the engine temperature ,right??? , or is it another kind ??? im a bit clueless and i believe this info is gonna improve this tutorial

thx for the help guys

I also have similar gauges. I would like to know how to hook up the water temp gauge, and oil temp gauge properly on the 8g ; ) If anyone could help, would be awesome !

voltage over 14v is actually BAD for the battery. It starts cooking it over 14

I'm on this thread because I was trying to install a AF ratio gauge as well and I couldn't find information on what color the signal wire is on the 7g 4 wire o2 sensors. Theres red, black, white, white, I traced it up to the connector in front of the intake runners. If anyone knows pin it is at the ECU down under the dash, that would greatly help, as I'm struggling to even drill through the rather tough bulkhead. Don't know how I'm gonna ground to the engine block unless I find a factory hole for something.

as far as the wires, the one you need is one of the white wires, i'm not sure myself, that's why i used a wire tap. it doesn't completely cut the wire. as far as where to go through the fire wall, i drilled a hole right next to the steering column, being careful not to hit anything crucial. You can also gain access from the cab to the engine bay through the engine wire harness hole at the passengers foot board.

for the a/f gauge follow the wires to the connector then look at the wires on the other side of the connector.. theres a white wire and thats the one you tap.. that way you can replace the o2 sensor without redoing the wire every time

Iam finally getting around to hooking up the lights on my autometer a/f, boost,pyrometer gauges... I tapped the correct wire for the O2 but what do you guys tap for the constant 12v? the other two gauges are tapped into the llight that was originally on my automatic gear shift... .(which was green/white stripe and black/yellow stripe)


looked like this..
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/i...relocation.jpg

i tapped into the green and white wire for the light on my boost and a/f gauges.. i think i did it right at the fuse box under the dash ill look again in the am