axle removal

OK i decided today would be the day i put my SS brake lines on, and also fix my ABS by replacing the two front Knuckles with knuckles that have sensors that aren't smashed.

ok..... a really long story cut short; in the dibocle (sp?) my axle boot tore in half, and i have to replace the boot, but can't get the part that's in the tranny out. Some one tell me what i need to do to make that happen, in the mean time i guess i'll go out and try a couple of things.

right now it's in park, i guess i'll go put it in neutral and see if that works. :?

Eh I had troubles getting my auto axles out. The way I do it is I have a tuning fork or ball joint seperator(most people use a big flathead screw driver), put it between the axle and the trans and jerk quickly. It should pop out somewhat easily.

the ball joint seperator was kind of too big, but thanks seth.

Yah it really only fit in one spot for me. Maybe the auto trans is different then the 5spd, but I could wedge it in there.

You just need some strong to pry the axle out of the tranny. It was a PITA from what I remembered removing the A/T axles out of my old 95 Galant especially the drivers side one.

I always use my trusty 3' Craftsman prybar. (snootier mechanics say the $80 Snap On bar is better...but it's just got a green handle instead of a red one) I've only ever failed to get out 1 axle and that was on a MX3. Never just "yank" the axle...you'll separate the joint. Pry gently against the axle, don't use jerking motions, as you might dislodge the retaining clip. Both times I've taken my axles out, they've slid right out.

Oh, and on an automatic Galant, put something under the trans to catch the fluid that will run out of the diff. I lost about a quart and a half when I put in my rear main seal. No big deal since I was at work, but it'd make a nasty mess in your driveway/garage

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(98ACR)</div><div class='quotemain'>Oh, and on an automatic Galant, put something under the trans to catch the fluid that will run out of the diff. I lost about a quart and a half when I put in my rear main seal. No big deal since I was at work, but it'd make a nasty mess in your driveway/garage</div>

Now he tells me! :roll:

what i always do?
well, pulling on the axle is bad. mkay....

so what i do is take a flathead screwdriver.
i line the tip of the flathead inbetween the green part of the axle and the tranny(right where the two meet)
then with a mallet i tap up into the screwdrver to wedge it inbetween the trnny and axle.
once you get it to the right spot, the axle will pop out and move freely. its just a moatter of overpowering the little circlip thats on the splines of the axle. remember?


screwdriver, wedge it in, axle pops out. done

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>
screwdriver, wedge it in, axle pops out. Â*done</div>

Actually that's what i ended up doing. DOHC did you have problems removing the 10mm nut that goes into the old brake line. I've stripped both front nuts, got the right side done, but am now having problems with the left, more than i did with the right.
I think i'm just going to cut the old fitting of tomorrow :roll:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Blue Ice)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>
screwdriver, wedge it in, axle pops out. Â*done</div>

Actually that's what i ended up doing. DOHC did you have problems removing the 10mm nut that goes into the old brake line. I've stripped both front nuts, got the right side done, but am now having problems with the left, more than i did with the right.
I think i'm just going to cut the old fitting of tomorrow :roll:</div>

Vice grips baby!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Blue Ice)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>
screwdriver, wedge it in, axle pops out. Â*done</div>

Actually that's what i ended up doing. DOHC did you have problems removing the 10mm nut that goes into the old brake line. I've stripped both front nuts, got the right side done, but am now having problems with the left, more than i did with the right.
I think i'm just going to cut the old fitting of tomorrow :roll:</div>

are you using line wrenches?
almost like a box wrench with a little slit on one side so you can get the wrench around the line. also called flare wrenches
thats what i use.

doesn't hurt to use a little penetrant.

you are going to love the stainless line feel homie. and the abs is even better with the stiff lines. your pedal will feel great, the abs will cycle faster in the event of a lockup. its fantastic.

what fluid are you using when you flush out your lines?

line wrenches huh? great :roll: something else i need to run out and buy. :roll: Bought Napa's Dot 4 "super... something-or-other, "for use with abs"

Vice grips aren't doing the trick, which kind of sucks. like i said tomorrow i'll just pull out the dremel and cut the bastard off.... hopefully.

i'll go ahead and reccomend valvoline dot4 synthetic. it has the highest off the shelf wet and dry boiling point. will give you a super firm pedal and much better response over a longer period of time w/o the need to rebleed the system.
you are going to need about 3 liters of the stuff to get all the air and old contminants out. its pretty cheap.
i bought four liters just in case and ended up taking one back. I wanted to makes sure the fluid coming out the bleeder was a fresh and clean as the fluid going in the resevoir.

good luck

Go into your dad's antique tool chest and find a 3/8 wrench. That's what I usually resort to when it comes to rounded off 10mm bolts. Or, if all else fails vice grips...but that's a LAST resort.

But I live in the rust-free paradise also known as "the south" so I rarely need to fight with stuck bolts unless some wayward yankee wanders into GA for a brake job.

well i got the wrenches Dohc was talkin about, and they came right off. Did the rear's no problem. The front was such a biatch cause i had to replace the knuckle so my abs would work, and guess what IT DOES woo hoo... at least the light isn't on anymore. Will test everything when i'm done here.

My antilock light stays lit, i hate ABS so only prob is the annoying light.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'>My antilock light stays lit, i hate ABS so only prob is the annoying light.</div>
........?


you really are blowing me away on this one.

i don't know why anyone. anyone would not want abs, unless you were on a road race course.
i mean i really don't get it.
you don't even know you have abs until you actually need it. there is no difference at all, at all during daily everyday or even hard driving the pedal feels exactly the same.


I absolutly hate it when my wheels lock up.
ABS has saved my car a few times.
I will NEVER buy another car without it.

if you really just can't stand the extra safety and stopping power that abs gives you, then just pull the cluster and remove the lightbulb.

ok, got her done! now the car pulls to the right while breaking.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_91_full.jpg

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Blue Ice)</div><div class='quotemain'>ok, got her done! Â*now the car pulls to the right while breaking.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_91_full.jpg</div>

you might want to rebleed your breaks,
if there is air in the lines or any one line it will cause uneven brake distribution.

also could be alignment

well i KNOW it's been a while since i had an alignment, but i'll have to check the brakes too, cause i think i have a lil too much pedal play.

Good luck getting your car aligned as it sits, I know I wouldn't touch it. I don't think with it lowered and the body kit that a laser alignment machine can even read the car. I dunno about the new 3D machines though.

And yes, check your brake pads, make sure they're installed properly and make sure the caliper pins are clean and greased up with fresh graphite grease. Also make sure the saddles are clean and free of brake dust. Than re-test and see if the problem corrects. If not, re-bleed the lines.