Forced Induction questions...
*** Already searched the forums, turned up some good info. But not the info im looking for.
Ok guys. I will soon have $22K to spend/invest/save. Ive been pondering the idea of Forced induction for quite some time now. Ill be using the car as my daily driver. So i really have some significant concerns. My concerns are as follows...
1-What is a good estimation of the cost to tune a Turbo system?
2-What is a good estimation of the cost to tune a Supercharger system?
3-Will adding a Turbo under the hood, decrease the life of my other engine components due to to the heat generated from the turbo?
4-What are some reasonable gains i can expect from a Turbo?
5-What are some reasonable gains i can expect from a Supercharger?
6-Is a Turbo system pretty much maintenance free after installation and a proper tune?
7-If i decide i dont want the Turbo/Supercharger any more, will i be able to successfully have it uninstalled and run stock again?
If any of you guys who are already running Turbo/Supercharger systems can add advice or answer these questions, id really appreciate it. As i said above, ive searched these forums and couldnt turn up much usable info to answer these questions.
Heres a couple of kits i found on the web...
http://www.turbo-kits.com/images/dd_..._turbo_kit.jpg
http://www.turbo-kits.com/galant_turbo_kits.html
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...ormance/Turbos
http://www.streetlevelperformance.co...rbo%20Kit.html
***Ive checked out Ripp Mods already, but for $3500+ id like to see some direct comparisons to Turbo systems in the same price range. What im trying to say is, does the Ripp kit for $3500+ give me more hp than a turbo kit for $2500?
Again, any of you guys already with FI please tell me your experiences with your systems. Thank you.
Re: Forced Induction questions...
1/2. depends on about 327 different factors. really depends how much you trust your shop, some shops out there don't know a god damn thing about boost and others pretend they do....
3-i think you're talking about internal heat generated from a turbo? it will diminish your engine life, as the internals, which were designed for an N/A application, are now undergoing boost. for example, the highest you'll ever see EGTs hit on a n/a 4cyl is around 1200* on a hot day, a turbo will easily have you cruising at 1200* and spiking to 1500* during WOT runs. on the V6 i can only imagine this head becomes more intense with the addition of boost.
4- totally depends on how aggressive you plan to get; how much boost you want to run; how you tune it; timing is a big factor here
6- no way.
7-yes
you should really piece together your own kit. you'll get the parts you want, build it the way you want, actually learn about what you're doing, and become your own mechanic. when problems come up down the road (which they will) you will be able to deal with them, some of them right on the side of the road. how helpless are you going to feel if you have to call some guy at a shop and tailor your schedule to his. that turbo in the picture is way too small for a V6, and the AFC2 is a fucking joke, nothing more than a flashy toy.
Re: Forced Induction questions...
Quote:
Originally Posted by peanotation
1/2. depends on about 327 different factors. really depends how much you trust your shop, some shops out there don't know a god damn thing about boost and others pretend they do....
Along with an extremely small percentage of shops that know jack about the 6G72 and 9 times out of 10 will definitely blow the pistons.
No need to reinvent the wheel, over on Club3G we've been turbo charging the V6 for years and are very familiar with the downfalls of the engine.
If I had $22k to burn on this car that's really on par with a very reliable turbocharged car. But really aimlessly spending money without a viable direction on exactly what you want to do is an inefficient way to budget upgrades.
Upgrade your lower end at a minimum with forged pistons. Rods are good for roughly 500 horse, but you can upgrade to crower billet rods which is the best but they do not have oil squirters built in so you have a potential heat issue.
Heads, definitely would go with cams, cam gears, valve springs and 1mm over valves for maximum power.
Ignition & Fuel management. Do it right the first time and go with a stand alone. It is possible to run a stand alone and use the stock ECU to control your transmission. 4cyl guys over on Club3G have done it with Scot Gray's assistance. Distributor ignition does not provide enough intensity for a spark so it will blow out at around 12 psi or so depending on your turbo sizing. So you either have to push a hotter spark with a MSD6 or replace your ignition system with coil packs.
Drivetrain - A torque convertor stall change is definitely in order if you want to launch at a higher RPM and get to the power band quicker. If you decide to do a 5spd swap (which keep in mind will create even more traction issues) then you will have to put money towards clutch/flywheel and LSD. With the AT transmission due to the soft engagement of the AT transmission it does not put the LSD in a bad position and I've yet to hear of anyone busting one on a Sporty.
Then you have the turbo kit itself, which in of itself I find that it seems a lot of companies are using different turbo sizes. The turbo kit we used to sell was a full T4 (like Drybear's car) which is laggy but it was safer for stock V6 engines and was aimed at make big power when you turn up the boost. DDP kit uses a 16G which is definitely a recipe for trouble with the V6. The T28 that rear bank turbo kit that IPP sells is even too small for SR20 guys to use on a 2.0L engine.
My best advice to you would be to go over to Club3G.com and read read read and then read again. At least if you go to a shop, you want to be smart and be able to see if the people that work on your car are going to mess something up or not. Also don't forget about the vendors like ourself that actually know these cars in and out which not only provide advice but can also procure just about any part you need for these vehicles for you.
