Timing advance

I am wanting to advance the timing on my 97 galant. One of my friends and I hooked up a timing light to my car and tried to rotate the distributer, but it had not much play (maybe a half of a mil. each way). We did it to another friend of ours 95 galant with no problem(just using the jumper wire). I am wondering if there is something else that I have to turn, like the CAS on the 2g eclipse, or is there nothing that I can do. As a side note I am wanting to pull as much out as I can before I go to the track on May 4th. I already have a 4" intake, 60mm tb, SAFCII, and are waiting to receive the wideband that I ordered, and if time permits before the 4th, doing the 5spd swap. But back to my original ? is there a way to advance the timing on my 97 or is it a no go.

you can'r rotate the whole dist because it is keyed, you can only rotate the cap.

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Originally Posted by 7gftw

I am wanting to advance the timing on my 97 galant. One of my friends and I hooked up a timing light to my car and tried to rotate the distributer, but it had not much play (maybe a half of a mil. each way). We did it to another friend of ours 95 galant with no problem(just using the jumper wire). I am wondering if there is something else that I have to turn, like the CAS on the 2g eclipse, or is there nothing that I can do. As a side note I am wanting to pull as much out as I can before I go to the track on May 4th. I already have a 4" intake, 60mm tb, SAFCII, and are waiting to receive the wideband that I ordered, and if time permits before the 4th, doing the 5spd swap. But back to my original ? is there a way to advance the timing on my 97 or is it a no go.

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I've seen two kinds of distributors - one like yours that cant be turned and one like mine that has plenty of spac e to do what you want to do. I ve never heard of rotating cap!

Is your car Cali spec?

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Originally Posted by mko

I've seen two kinds of distributors - one like yours that cant be turned and one like mine that has plenty of spac e to do what you want to do. I ve never heard of rotating cap!

Is your car Cali spec?

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Rotating the cap is how i always set my timing. the screw holes are slotted for that reason.

i do not think it is cali spec... I bought it in GA and am still here... We tried loostening the two phillips that hold the cap on and it does not move either...

what does it mean by being "Keyed"

wait now that i think of it the end of the distributer has the hey that lines up with the end of the cam. lol sorry for the misleading info i was thinking about how my old car worked. there are three bolts that hold the distributer in place, you you are looking directly twards the distributer their should be one on each side and one on bottom.

oh keyed means that it can only go in two ways the right way.

I only saw two, one towards the back ant up, and another on the front side but at the bottom. I am sure that those were the only ones b/c the distributer came off the head about 2mil if i moved it enough.

there should be three one on each side and one underneath the dist

I only have the two 12mm bolts, I took some pics to show and the bottom bolt shows the most play by the oil lline. the pics are bad... silly phone camera.

So since my disrib. is keyed, is there something I can do to advance the timing a couple of degrees, like is there something like a CAS (I know our cars don't have one) that I can turn, or is there a wire hat I can splice and add a certain resistance resistor to it. How would the guys at Mitsubishi or another shop advance and/or retard timing if they needed to. I just wanna know that I can't do it before I give up on it.

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Originally Posted by 7gftw

So since my disrib. is keyed, is there something I can do to advance the timing a couple of degrees, like is there something like a CAS (I know our cars don't have one) that I can turn, or is there a wire hat I can splice and add a certain resistance resistor to it. How would the guys at Mitsubishi or another shop advance and/or retard timing if they needed to. I just wanna know that I can't do it before I give up on it.

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No, the CAS in our cars is in the distributor, so you cant do that. Take a picture of the distributor where it bolts to the head, I want to see something

94-95 and 96-98 have completely different distributors. I'm almost positive that the newer ones can't be clocked.

94-95 can be adjusted to advance or retard timing...the 96-98 distributers can't as there is no adjustments

I will post more pics of the distrib. tomorrow if it stops raining for a few hours. I was also wondering is there something to "trick" the ecu into advancing the timing like a resistor on a wire or bypassing a certain sensor. Like how an afc makes a certain resistance on the airflow wire to "trick" the ecu into pulling fuel. I mean, the guys at Mitsubishi or auto shops might have to advance or retard timing.... so how would they go about doing it?

i have a 96 and its keyed distributer.
took it off had a drill bit to it ... done said.
wana run e85 on it. got a walbro 255 ...60psi on the FPR
mafs of a 3.0 v6
and throttle body.
no o2's and hollow cat.

does the ecu auto adjust?

whats this i hear about not using safc n something else instead?
im just an oil pan away from throwing the turbo in.

i wana know bout advance timing for better handling the e85
for now.

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Originally Posted by crzejkr

i have a 96 and its keyed distributer.
took it off had a drill bit to it ... done said.
wana run e85 on it. got a walbro 255 ...60psi on the FPR
mafs of a 3.0 v6
and throttle body.
no o2's and hollow cat.

does the ecu auto adjust?

whats this i hear about not using safc n something else instead?
im just an oil pan away from throwing the turbo in.

i wana know bout advance timing for better handling the e85
for now.

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Dude if youre not running o2 sensors... Somethings wrong............................................. ........................ They are there for a REASON!

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Originally Posted by 7gftw

I will post more pics of the distrib. tomorrow if it stops raining for a few hours. I was also wondering is there something to "trick" the ecu into advancing the timing like a resistor on a wire or bypassing a certain sensor. Like how an afc makes a certain resistance on the airflow wire to "trick" the ecu into pulling fuel. I mean, the guys at Mitsubishi or auto shops might have to advance or retard timing.... so how would they go about doing it?

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Why not just spend 100 bucks and get a adjustable timing gear?

You have to run at least a front o2 sensor if you daily drive your car. The ECU reads the front o2 sensor for open loop fuel adjustments. Without the front o2 sensor, more then likely the car will run in limp mode and will not be very pleasant.

As for the SAFC, you should really only need it if you have done some major work to affect airflow. Just a CAI and exhaust arent going to require an SAFC.

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Originally Posted by crzejkr

i have a 96 and its keyed distributer.
took it off had a drill bit to it ... done said.
wana run e85 on it. got a walbro 255 ...60psi on the FPR
mafs of a 3.0 v6
and throttle body.
no o2's and hollow cat.

does the ecu auto adjust?

whats this i hear about not using safc n something else instead?
im just an oil pan away from throwing the turbo in.

i wana know bout advance timing for better handling the e85
for now.

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Wait what? Explain this setup a bit more because it sounds kinda out there

Yes the ecu auto adjusts.

since then i have figured it out after much fidling. 94-97 cars have a brown plug upper middle firewall leading nowhere, u ground it and the car goes to stock factory spec timing idle etc, ull notice idle drop etc. at that moment only can u advance the timing or retard or mess with idle, once finished u turn car off remove ground and turn on again to accept and save changes. otherwise u drive off and withing 20-30 min ur changes will go back to whatever the ecu decides to auto adjust.
also im running low resistance 345cc prelude h22 jap injectors and the car runs real good, crisp torque and aceleration, on ethanol i get around 17 18 mpg and great topend torque, hit 80-130 the other day pretty effortlessly and quick, stock woulda struggled a bit past 110 mixed 50 50 93 octane and ethanol i get 18-22 mpg with better low end.
i changed my alternator and lost all my settings so its running kinda shity at the moment and the 94 distributor (not keyed and adjustable) threw a cam/ crank code so i threw the 96 (keyed) back on till i replace the intrernal sensor and guts. u need a timing light to do this best otherwise ur in the dark n wont know ehere to advance. i was at 25degrees or 20degrees which is i believe 15 or 20 more advance than stock. i recomend this for anyone. the injectors are seimens 345cc or around 32-35lbs low resistance and are shaped exactly as the bosh in our cars.
the 450cc were too big to handle without an safc and would detonate like crazy at over 4k rpm


i almost forgot, in order to run the 345cc instead of getting an safc i ran about 3-4 feet of 3" piping and an elbow to the throttle body (60mm) as a cold air intake but with the mafs on the end where the battery used to be tucked at (relocated it in trunk to be able to do this) and the wires made it just right to plug it back up. since the air mass is in front plus the 60mm TB and the ported plenum the car reads alot more CI of air to compensate and even out the mixture for the 345cc which after much swapping of differtn size injectors and diferent fuel pressures was the best suited. an example is that the 450cc would never ran and cloud like a diesel and sputer from too rich before the intake and mafs setup, after it added so much air to read that it actually ran but still dumped too rich at high rpms causing massive detonation and large flamefull backfires.
the 345cc runs great. im dying to get the car back up and running at the timing i had it previously slap some e85 50 50 with some 110 leaded and hit a dyno at a freinds local shop just for shits and refernece from stock now and later turbo. let me know if anyones got questions cus i know this shit sounds crazy. im living in n miami n working in broward so ur welcome to hit me up and take a look at the setup or questions about ethanol in these cars, at $2.39 e85 and $3.00 93 octane i think the money savings and the gains are obviose if ur close to e85 availability, plus i have a spare set of 345cc for those of u wanting extra pep auto a N/a. aswelll as a great set of 275cc stockers, shoot me offers if interested. oh almost forgot im runing a gsx FPR with 35psi low and 45psi WOT
i think the 7g is factory 39psi WOT?

wait, you bolted on a GSX fpr? i thought the 2G turbo (GST/GSX) FPRs weren't interchangeable with our fuel rails....

fuel pressure specs:
http://socallifestyle.com/afpr/afpr.html

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With both the motor and fuel pump running and all vacuum lines connected, the service manual specifies the fuel system should be set to 38psi. ----
With only the fuel pump running [or the motor running with the vacuum line disconnected] the service manual specifies the system should be set to 48-50psi

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you should be about 10psi higher at WOT, 48-50psi.

edit: even though this thread is old, mods should split this into a new topic starting with crzejkr's post above mine

I have the same timing issues...my car is sitting at 3 degrees and it should be at 5. It is just a little off but that is performance lost. My dist doesnt move much either.

I'm fairly certain I've just read the most overly complicated pile of garbage tuning approach I've ever seen, or heard of.

take a 94 95 distributor its plugs are in diferent locations but if you strch the wires a bit it works. bolt it up ground the brown firewall connector. set your timing by turning distributor turn car off remove ground from plug and hit it with a timing light to see your resluts. rinse and repeat till you get hte timing where you want it at.
good luck.





and yes stunr it was a long and useless post. but im still runing 345cc no safc and 100% e85 all day.

does it make difference with the 345cc?