4g64/63T Project Update (w/pics)

This project has been a long time in the making. I haven't been on the board for a while; in fact, the car has been parked for almost two years and I haven't done any work on it since then. Life got in the way and the Galant got put on the back burner; I bought a new home, got married, went out of state for three months, and got real busy with work; but now I am all settled and ready to dedicate some time and money to finally finish the galant project. It wasn't until recently that I pulled all the parts and motor out of storage and I finally got the car out of my Dad's driveway. It is now sitting in my garage waiting for me to tear it down and rebuild it.

The block is a 4g64, bored .020 over with Ross 8.5:1 pistons, Crower rods, ARP main studs, removed balance shafts, and fully balanced rotating assembly. The head is a 4g63 DOHC 1g, with a five angle valve job, stock cams, 4g64 GS cam gears, ARP head studs, and full gasket matched port job. The transmission needs to be rebuilt but the clutch is an ACT 2100 with lightened flywheel. The ecu is an eprom ecu from a 93 AWD turbo Talon, socketed and fitted with a Keydriver chip, and using connectors and plugs taken from wiring harnesses from a 1g 4g63t, 1g 4g63 N/T, and two 7g 4g64 to make it all work. The injectors are Denso 660's in a stock 1g fuel rail with an Aeromotive FPR, fueled by a Walbro 255 fuel pump and a SAFC. Also have a fully ported cyclone intake mani, ported 2g exhaust mani, ported Evo o2 housing, 2g Dejon intake pipe, FMIC with 2 1/2" hard piping, lightened underdrive pulleys, full 3" custom turbo-back exhaust, and unknown brand blow-off valve. I am planning on using an Evo 16g which I haven't purchased yet controlled by an AVCR which I do have.

The suspension is currently stock but I have and will install Eibach pro-kit springs, KYB AGX shocks, Energy suspension complete bushing kit, Ingalls front and rear camber adjustment kit, and front and rear strut braces.

The exterior has an E-Racing body kit molded on, tinted windows, 18" Motegi rims, JDM cleared headlights, PIAA 6" driving lights (not currently installed), and shaved door handles, door moldings, and emblems. The interior has a decent sound system, relocated A/C controls, flush mounted gauges, flush mounted SAFC, and flush mounted AVCR. I have visor monitors but I don't know whether or not to install them.

I have several throttle bodies, coil packs, transitors, cam angle sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housings, etc. that I collected a while ago; unfortunetly (since it has been such a long time since I puchased them or researched this project) I don't know what model year they are from or which ones I am supposed to be using for my set-up. I'm going to have to research so I can refresh my memory on the technical info for the swap.

I have not started any work on the galant since I got the car and parts into my garage; in fact, I haven't even cleaned the car (it's nasty after sitting for two years). As soon as I run an A/C duct to the garage I will start working on the Galant (it's hot as hell here in Florida). I will keep this thread updated through out the process.

This message board has been a great help to me in the past and will continue to be my guide as I work towards finishing up the Galant. I would like to thank all of you who contribute to this site, I appreciate all the information that is shared on here.

The plan is as follows:

Interior; pull the dash, seats, carpet, ecu, A/C, radio, speakers, etc.
Motor; pull the motor, trans, wiring harness, etc.
Motor; clean and paint engine bay
Wiring; fabricate and install new wiring harness and ecu
Wiring; wire in gauges, AVCR, SAFC, stereo, mirrors, and driving lights
Wiring; wire in and install fuel pump
Trans; send out transmission to be rebuilt
Motor; finish building with timing belt, spark plugs, wires, etc.
Motor; install motor, wire in sensors, install tranny
Motor; install oil cooler
Motor; install turbo, exhaust, intake, FMIC and piping
Seats; have seats reupholstered and install
Interior; repair/adjust door handle kit, install power mirrors
Interior; install subwoofer and amp, install visor monitors ???
Interior; paint interior panels, dash, trim
Interior; install interior panels and new carpet
Interior; replace steering wheel ???
Interior; install sealed battery box in trunk (wiring already in place)
Suspension; install bushings, springs, Ingalls kit, struts, and braces
Brakes; install rear disc brakes, new rotors in front, and new pads
Suspension; send out for alignment
Exterior; remove wheels and tires, send out to be powder coated
Exterior; install sunroof ???
Exterior; send out to body shop for body work and paint
Exterior; replace rubber moldings and weather strip


Parts I still need:

Evo 16g turbo ???
oil return line and feed line
rear brake parts
front rotors
timing cover (middle piece)
ignition wire set, spark plugs
subwoofer, amp
power mirrors and wiring
wideband o2
steering wheel and hub adapter ???
battery box
carpet


Pictures are attached (keep in mind the car has been sitting for a long time and still hasn't even been cleaned yet

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=117

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=116

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https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=136

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https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=121

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https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=119

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=118

Welcome back and good luck with your swap :) . I'm just a few weeks from attempting to turn the key on mine .


BTW here's a sale on oil feedlines that fit 14b/16g turbos.

Edit- forgot the link lol http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vend...line-sale.html

welcome back man. got alot going for the car. as bmore i'm almost done a 63T swap in my cuz's GS. then i start my own

Nice garage man. I remember that car and your HVAC relocation! Welcome back, you have some work ahead of you :)

I removed the front bumper, lights, radiator, fans, and started clearing parts out of the engine bay.

I should have the motor and trans out by the end of the week.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=165

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=164

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=171

Nice progress, can't wait to see it done.

i dont see how the cables work from right there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lonestar22

i dont see how the cables work from right there.

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???

The engine has been sitting for a long time; although it was covered in plastic, surface rust has formed on the gears and mating surfaces. What should I use to clean this up?

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=136

I got the motor and transmission out of the car today. The next step is to clean everything and start transferring parts from the old motor to the new one. Also, I need to clean up the engine bay.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=196

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=195

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=194

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=193

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=192

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=188

I have a few questions; hopefully you guys can help me out:

1.) I am having problems removing the driver side axle; it seems to be seized into the hub. Is there a trick of the trade that I can try to remove this?

2.) The Haynes Repair Manual says that if the car is to be moved with the axles out, a through bolt with two large washers (one on each side of the hub) should be installed and tightened securely. Is this absolutely necessary? I just need to move the car a few feet into the driveway to clean and degrease the engine bay and then roll it back into the garage?

3.) I would like to remove the emission controls from the engine bay. I will be using a 1g ecu, so if I remove the solenoids on the firewall will I still get a CEL? Will there be any ill effects? Is it okay to remove these?:

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=190

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=191

Thanks for the help fellas!

i have my cuz gs with no axles and we roll that bitch around all the time. but you need to remove them from the hubs and just sit them on the floor.

use pb blaster and tap the end with a flat head screwdriver ( a thich one) and a hammer

wow blast from the past :) I remember you used the 8g sides on your 7g kit and it looked really nice...

Good to see your still working on it and are making progress.. Good luck and hope to see more updates soon..

wow man, glad you're keeping us updated. this looks like it's going to be a monster, can't wait!!! if you're interested i have front crossdrilled/slotted rotors FS, need minor resurfacing.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=29658

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StreetDreams

I got the motor and transmission out of the car today. The next step is to clean everything and start transferring parts from the old motor to the new one. Also, I need to clean up the engine bay.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=196

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=195

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=194

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=193

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=192

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=188

I have a few questions; hopefully you guys can help me out:

1.) I am having problems removing the driver side axle; it seems to be seized into the hub. Is there a trick of the trade that I can try to remove this?

2.) The Haynes Repair Manual says that if the car is to be moved with the axles out, a through bolt with two large washers (one on each side of the hub) should be installed and tightened securely. Is this absolutely necessary? I just need to move the car a few feet into the driveway to clean and degrease the engine bay and then roll it back into the garage?

3.) I would like to remove the emission controls from the engine bay. I will be using a 1g ecu, so if I remove the solenoids on the firewall will I still get a CEL? Will there be any ill effects? Is it okay to remove these?:

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=190

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=191

Thanks for the help fellas!

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Itll def. throw many codes if you remove the emission components. Youll need the 97-98 distributor, emission free harness and ecu - it only has canister. There are no vacuum lines on the throttle body, no purge solenoid, no egr solenoid, no egr valve, no intake manifold pressure sensor. I just got mine, its in the trunk for now.

I cleaned and degreased the engine bay today. Also, got that driver's side axle out of the hub. I started transfering some parts from the old engine to the new engine. Installed the fuel rail and injectors. Installed the timing parts, except for the belt; I ended up with a belt from a SOHC 4g64, so now I need to order a new belt for the DOHC 4g64. Also, I need the middle timing cover and some misc. gaskets. I will probably start on the wiring while I am waiting on those other parts.


https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=200

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https://www.thegalantcenter.org/pict...&pictureid=205

what kind of pulleys do you use?

They are Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys. I have the crank pulley as well but will probably not use it. I fear that without the harmonic balancer I may damage the new motor; another reason is that when the engine rotating assembly was balanced at the machine shop, it was balanced with the stock harmonic balancer not the Unorthodox lightened pulley. Although, the weight difference is huge, so I am undecided what to use.

Any suggestions???

Also, they are underdrive pulleys, but the crank pulley is the only pulley that is actually smaller than the stock pulley. If the crank pulley is not installed than the accesory pulleys will not be underdriven. I'm not too sure what I want to do.

List of parts I need to complete the motor swap:

Evo 16g turbo
oil return line and feed line
timing cover (middle piece) or lower one piece
ignition wire set
spark plugs
wideband o2
oil pressure gauge
fuel pressure gauge
lines and fittings to install fuel pressure regulator
injector resistor box
4g64 dohc timing belt
oil filter
ACT clutch disc
slave cylinder
transmission mount
prothane motor mount inserts
transmission rebuild
K&N intake filter (already have adapter)
couplers and clamps for intercooler piping

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StreetDreams

Also, they are underdrive pulleys, but the crank pulley is the only pulley that is actually smaller than the stock pulley. If the crank pulley is not installed than the accesory pulleys will not be underdriven. I'm not too sure what I want to do.

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id go with fluidamper, but its around 300 bucks

You, my friend, are my hero.

I'll be attempting this swap probably in the 2009 realistically speaking. Right now still on V6 twin turbo power. fingers crossed that it doesn't die on me before that.

I've been working on the wiring harness for the past couple weeks. I am using bits and pieces from both the 1g harness and 7g harness to work with the 1g ecu. This is a pain in the ass, but I am pretty much done.

A few questions:

The 1g uses a coolant temp switch to turn on the condenser fan and a temp switch on the radiator fan to turn on the radiator fan but the 7g uses a trigger from the ecu. From what I gathered, both fans turn on if there is a trigger to either fan. If I connect the high and low cooling fan wires (these wires run from the 7g ecu to the cooling fan relays) to the green/yellow wire for the coolant temp switch, will the fans work?

The 7g has an electrical load switch terminal on the ecu, the 1g does not. I am assuming that disconecting this line will not be a problem since all it does is bump up the idle when the lights (or heavy electrical load) turns on. Am I assuming correctly?

I am confused as to where to wire in pin 1 (yellow) and 2 (white) from the 1g ecu, these are diagnostic wires from the 1g ecu. I have two diagnostic wires from a 7g connector that used to go to pin 42 (yellow) and 43 (gray) on the 7g ecu. Any suggestions?

Thanks much,

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StreetDreams

I am confused as to where to wire in pin 1 (yellow) and 2 (white) from the 1g ecu, these are diagnostic wires from the 1g ecu. I have two diagnostic wires from a 7g connector that used to go to pin 42 (yellow) and 43 (gray) on the 7g ecu. Any suggestions?

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The 7g pin 42 goes to 1G pin 1 while 7g pin 43 goes to 1G pin 2.

94-95 Data Link Connector Pinout

Pin 1: Diagnostic/ECU output (ECU pin 42)
Pin 2: Unknown/Usused
Pin 3: Unknown/Usused
Pin 4: Ground
Pin 5: Ground
Pin 6: TCU
Pin 7: Diagnostic Control Signal (ECU pin 43)
Pin 8: ABS
Pin 9: [Alarm]
Pin 10: Unknown/Usused
Pin 11: Unknown/Usused
Pin 12: SRS/Airbag
Pin 13: Cruise
Pin 14: Vehicle Speed
Pin 15: Unknown/Usused
Pin 16: Power

Great! Thanks for the help and for the pinout.

Any thoughts on the cooling fan system?

Thanks again,

Mike

cooling fan was easy. I just cut the ground wire on the radiator high relay(not the side that actually goes to the fan, but the side that triggers the relay.... make sense?),
then i ran that wire from the relay to one of the coolant temperature switches on the 1g thermostat housing.

there are three sensors on mine. one for the ecu, one sender for the gauge cluster, and the third one is a temp switch.

basically how it works, is the system is open until that sensor gets to temperature, then the switch grounds, so the relay is activated.... and the fans come on.
simmple. one wire, brilliant.

This site is awesome; you guys are great.

Thanks Stunr for the info, very helpful.

Let me just re-state your info in the way I interprit:
Cut the ground wire on the coil side of RAD HIGH relay and connect that to the coolant temp switch. Do I connect both the high and low wires together to the coolant temp switch. Which sensor would be the best one to connect to; I was thinking the green/yellow wire from the coolant temp switch? I haven't looked, but I am assuming that the wire from the 7g ecu that triggers the coil on the RAD HIGH relay is the ground wire that you are referring to??? What about the LOW relay? What about the condenser relay?

Also, Mysticj, do happen to have the diagnostic test connector pinout for a 1g? Just curious.


Thanks again; you guys' help is very much appreciated. If it wasn't for people like you, this swap would never happen.

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StreetDreams

This site is awesome; you guys are great.

Also, Mysticj, do happen to have the diagnostic test connector pinout for a 1g? Just curious.


Thanks again; you guys' help is very much appreciated. If it wasn't for people like you, this swap would never happen.

Mike

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1G DLC

got any fished pics??? its lookin good

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mysticj

The 7g pin 42 goes to 1G pin 1 while 7g pin 43 goes to 1G pin 2.

94-95 Data Link Connector Pinout

Pin 1: Diagnostic/ECU output (ECU pin 42)
Pin 2: Unknown/Usused
Pin 3: Unknown/Usused
Pin 4: Ground
Pin 5: Ground
Pin 6: TCU
Pin 7: Diagnostic Control Signal (ECU pin 43)
Pin 8: ABS
Pin 9: [Alarm]
Pin 10: Unknown/Usused
Pin 11: Unknown/Usused
Pin 12: SRS/Airbag
Pin 13: Cruise
Pin 14: Vehicle Speed
Pin 15: Unknown/Usused
Pin 16: Power

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I reviewed the 7g and 1g wiring schematics and the Data Link Connector pinouts that you posted and I believe that you have the 7g pins 42 and 43 reversed. Using the information you provided and the wiring diagrams I believe that pin 42 should go to pin 7 on the DLC and that pin 43 should go to pin 1 on the DLC. Can you please verify that I am reading these diagrams correctly? Thanks for the 1g DLC pinouts by the way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gilgastelum21

got any fished pics??? its lookin good

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The car looks just as it did in the last pictures I posted. I've been working on the wiring harness so there has not been any other progress, but I will be updating this thread as progress is made.

I'll get a picture of that fan relay mod tomorrow. Been busy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StreetDreams

I reviewed the 7g and 1g wiring schematics and the Data Link Connector pinouts that you posted and I believe that you have the 7g pins 42 and 43 reversed. Using the information you provided and the wiring diagrams I believe that pin 42 should go to pin 7 on the DLC and that pin 43 should go to pin 1 on the DLC. Can you please verify that I am reading these diagrams correctly? Thanks for the 1g DLC pinouts by the way.

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I don't have the early 7G DLC diagram but I do have a German ECU pinout that shows that Pin 42 is the ECU output and Pin 43 is Diagnostic Signal. German 95-96 Eclipse ECU

The ECU output goes to Pin 1 on the DLC and the diagonostic signal control goes to Pin 2 on the 1G DLC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mysticj

I don't have the early 7G DLC diagram but I do have a German ECU pinout that shows that Pin 42 is the ECU output and Pin 43 is Diagnostic Signal. German 95-96 Eclipse ECU

The ECU output goes to Pin 1 on the DLC and the diagonostic signal control goes to Pin 2 on the 1G DLC.

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On the 7g wiring diagram, it shows pin 42 (ecu) goes to pin 7 (dlc) and pin 43 (ecu) goes to pin 1 (dlc). The 7g DLC you posted shows that pin 1(dlc) is the output and pin 7 (dlc) is the control signal.

Using that information I assume that to connect a 1g ecu to a 7g dlc I would need to connect the oulput (pin 1 on the 1g ecu) to pin 1 of the 7g dlc, and connect the control signal (pin 2 on the 1g ecu) to pin 7 of the 7g dlc.

I guess I am just not getting it. Sorry to beat a dead horse. In reality this shouldn't be a big deal because once the car is wired up, if the DLC doesn't work properly, it's only a matter of swapping two pins (either on the ecu plugs or the dlc).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DOHCstunr

I'll get a picture of that fan relay mod tomorrow. Been busy.

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Thanks Stunr. There's no rush; I've got several more months of work on this project, but the information would be greatly appreciated.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DOHCstunr

I'll get a picture of that fan relay mod tomorrow. Been busy.

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Any chance on getting that picture? I really just need to know which sensor you tapped into.

Thanks,

Mike