what's the biggest rotor size i can fit on an 8G with evo 8 Brembo calipers?
how many millimeters? And will a dif manufactuerer such as Project Mu's(for example) rotors work with Brembo calipers?
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what's the biggest rotor size i can fit on an 8G with evo 8 Brembo calipers?
how many millimeters? And will a dif manufactuerer such as Project Mu's(for example) rotors work with Brembo calipers?
I can just go out and measure my rotors, but have you bought the brembo calipers yet?
already have brembo calipers yes. same exact ones from an evo 8.
sent a message.
The biggest you can fit is the factory size rotor. You can put on a bigger rotor but you will also have to relocate the caliper to accomidate the bigger rotor.
why would you want to go bigger rotor over the stock evo8 rotor? have you seen one? they are huge compared to our galants. Also why would you want to add more rotating weight?
advise, stick with the regular size evo rotors.
go to evolutionm.net and see what they use.
DAm i wish we had 5 bolts instead of 4 bolts. I want the Evo brakes on mine aswell :(
ok if you dont track the car all you are doing is showing off. even with the stoptech stage 2 two piece rotors, you would have a bunch of rotor you wouldnt even really need. i hope you bought all four calipers as well otherwise you are doing nothing more than offsetting your brake bias. even the stock bias is not optimised for the evo setup. thats one of the reasons i got rid of my ABS after i did the swap. think about it, you are going to press your pedal down as if you had your stock brakes and the master cylinder and brake booster are going to send the stock amount of pressure to the pistons right? then think about how much more the evo calipers will move in that moment than the stockers, much more. so if you dont watch yourself you can get into a lock up condition much easier. these brakes are nothing to take lightly. they have been herald as some of the best least fadding brakes on any production car under $50k. i know they look badass but just stick with the stock sized evo rotors of maybe the slotted variant or cross-drilled and slotted. really, there is no real reason to buy bigger than the stock evo sized rotors. hell even my rear stoptech slotted rotors are vented better and bigger than my stock fronts were.
thanks 4 the feed boost, and the rest of u guys. u all had valid points. i'm just gonna get some OEM Brembo replacements and call it a day. now wether to get slotted and drilled, or just slotted. :)
lol you know i got the slotted ones.didnt feel like waiting 3 months for the drilled to come in.slotteds good...i like them bro
well, i know where to get the rotors that's both drilled/slotted, they just won't be Brembo brand. i dont care if they are not Brembo rotors anyway.
i got u...then you should get those.
are you even sure you can fit the calipers on? before you invest in rotors and lines and pads, you should see if its possible for you to install the calipers at all.
from the looks of the questions, you havent put much thought into the brake upgrade besides purchasing the calipers. you should mout them on your car first and see if they even clear your wheels. Most likely you are missing all the hardware also.
my wheels clear them no prob. what specific hardware do i need?
Check into R1Concepts rotors....we get a good price and I've heard good things,,,,,,,,,bout to order mine right now.
The stock EVO brakes will outperform even the stickiest of track tires that I own, I'm pretty sure no one else has run their galant on r-comps, so trying to upgrade a system that vastly outperforms any tire ever to be put on a galant, is a waste of time.
i plan on putting my car on R888's or NT-01's this summer for time attack, autocross, and lap battles. so ill see how they perform on those R comps and do a write up on them. the hankooks love them as long as you dont have a heavy brake foot.
anyway, as far as getting some cheap drilled and slotted rotors, you should consider the fact that the rotors that are expensive are expensive for a reason (reason being R&D and actual racing application) and the reason that the cheap ones are cheap for a reason as well (no real racing application and no real R&D). not to mention the typical ebay type drilled rotor was simply a stock rotor that has been drilled as opposed to a rotor that was designed as a drilled rotor and can fully benefit from the holes in the rotor. but IMO, slotted are the way to go for sure. drilled is for aesthetics IMO.
Boost is right, especially when you add in the fact that most are not drilled properly which causes cracking under high stress use. I doubt either one of us would be able to get a cheap ebay rotor to hold up for very long.
I personally do not like drilled rotors, I prefer slotted, as the slots do a much more efficient job of evacuating gasses while maintaining enough integrity to not crack or warp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6G72gearhead
+1
Anyone who has come off of the big straight into a corner knows how much strain and heat track rotors need to be able to undergo. I know mine have been glowing cherry red a time or two. Guess what, I'm on stock calipers and powerslot rotors with some DOT 5.1 fluid.
The stock caliper seals as I am finding out don't hold up well to that kind of heat for very long, and I would love to do an Evo caliper swap my next brake job. That probably won't happen as I don't have much funds as of late, but hey its a goal.
r1 concepts are really bad ass (drilled and slotted). ive had them on for 8 months and they work like new. fyi i also have evo8 brembos.
ill tell you from personal experience whether being on the canyons running full out or being on an autocross track, having a predictable brake setup is keen in performance. period. knowing when they will fade, if they will fade, and where the friction threshold is is very important to actually being able to see the results of your braking system. i had my car on a canyon road that has very long sweeping turns that transition into technical braking and cornering sections and it was a very good feeling knowing absolutely what the car would do considering i put the braking/handling system together. smelling carbon metallic pads after a hard canyon run with no fadding is a testiment to a great brake setup. no fade, remember that. and the road was over 8miles of twisties.
yeah but we are not talking about street use cracking rotors. we are talking about actual track duty. and no it wont happen the first time or even the second. it takes various heat cylces to be able to crack a weak rotor but none the less they show their evil heads when you would least expect it and would happen to most need them. slotted>cross drilled/slottedQuote:
Originally Posted by jojo03
Yeah, I wanted to see what my set up would do, and with a cheaper organic pad, I did a 160-0 brakestand and the pedal stayed solid. Hell it didn't even click abs at all, which probably means I could stand to attain myself a little more brake. I could hold my foot as hard on that pedal as I wanted and it stayed solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by boostzealot
I was impressed for stock hydraulics.
see a lot of people that do the evo conversion dont take the stock hydraulics into consideration before they do the swap. the stock braking system with slotted brembo rotors, stainless steel braided lines, good carbon metallic pads and a good high temp fluid is still a very comparable setup. it will fade much quicker than the evo brakes will but at the same time the heat that is incurred on the system is much more disappated by the sheer size of the calipers and rotors on the evo setup than the stock that there would be no real way to get the stockers to act like evo's. essentially, if one is not going to track the car then there is no reason they should spend the extra $200-$400 to go to the evo system when the stock when upgraded is more than enough for the typical driver.
Exactly, the stock hydraulics can be pushed so much farther then most on this site give them credit for. I would like to go to the Evo calipers and do an abs delete with an adjustable proportioning valve. I would like more repeatable performance then I am getting. You can tell after multiple hard stops that heat soak is becoming an issue. It still stops though, but the pedal height will change as heat cycles intensify.
instead of doing the abs delete, just get the non abs axles or pull the pickup ring off of your current ones and pull the abs fuse. thats what i did and i didnt have to mess with the abs at all. it works great when you get used to how these brakes clamp so much harder than the stockers, but that learning curve can be a little hair raising at times. lockups suck but at least with the evo's they dont stay that way. the evo's have been know to be up there with the best for modulation
do any of you have a problem with the rotors warping because i have a friend that had that problem
the correct brake lines, oem bolts and the oem locking washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by platano
I thought the sole purpose of drilled rotors were for cooling? That's what motorcyclists swear by
^^they are its just some brand rotors like R1 are made of weaker material then others so they tend to crack from hole to whole so they shouldnt be used for purpose built cars but people who build race cars all ready know that.
for the street and cool points there fine though
It works on a motorcycle because their brakes don't endure anywhere near what a cars will. If you look at a sport bike alot of them have two brakes on the front wheel alone, this makes a huge difference in the amount of abuse the brakes take. On a bike as well a lot of guys don't like the noise that come from slotted rotors, since they can get away with drilled thats what they go for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Serstylz2
When was the last time you saw a bikes rotor glow cherry red?
When it comes down to cars slots are a far more effective way of dealing with built up exhaust gasses. The venting is for cooling btw.
cosigned!