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My car begin to overheat, but i don't know where to start,i've bought new radiator cap, flush the system , but it still overheat.
I don't know if the waterpump is bad, or the car has a leak.
I've put a vid so you guys can see, it seems that the waterpump is bad.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_MOV00987.jpg
So what do you guys think
well, change the thermostat cuz its cheap and if it doesnt help then you know its the water pump. when a water pump goes bad theres usually water leaking, so look arounf the belts for wet spots
I took the termostat out, and there is no water by the the waterpump.
I did just saw a small leak behind the turbo
Is it me...but your coolant doesn't look right. Its a bit brownish..which is concerning, should be more of a green tint color if anything.
I have never delt or seen a water pump stop circulating...usually when a water pump fails its usually leaking.
What condition is your radiator...is it fairly new or a old one?
I don't think it will hurt to do a compression test, just to rule out the probability of a bad headgasket.
By the way it looks to me, well first, you should use proper cooling fluid, and not water. By the looks of it, some of the metal parts of your cooling system, ie. radiator and any other metal part of the cooling system, is rusting inside. Their is a possibility that your car is experienceing a rust buildup, which is blocking an efficient flow of water through your cooling system. In which case, you probably need to replace your radiator and/or your water pump. Than, when you get your cooling system fixed, do a chemical flush.. or two, to get any remaining rust from your hoses.
However, a more probable chance is you have a cracked headgasket. Because on my 7g when MissMav and I bought it, the previous owner only used water for cooling fluid which was even more brown than yours, and their was a crack on the radiator, but the cooling system still worked.
I heard that a run-rite cooling system flush works pretty well..
It seems that in the cooling system is pressure, that throw the water out. Thats not normal. Its the gasket.
On the cap can be a film - grey - which is of oil. If you take ot the oil cap, there can be a film too.
I'm using commetic headgasket, there is no water in oil, or oil in water,and everytime i need to fill in the radiator
Well if you need to fill the radiator then its safe to assume you have a leak somewhere in the cooling system.
Have you tried to fill the cooling system and let the car idle for several minutes and then start inspecting for possible leaks?
From the vid your coolant/water looks brownish...which is a good sign of cooling system contamination probably rust buildup in the radiator to which a good quality cooling system flush will help condition the cooling system back up. This is why I asked if you have the original radiator or a new one...if its the original I would replace it with a new one and replace the thermostat at that too.
Just recently i was loosing coolant and couldn't figure out where...it was leaking from the tranny side. I finally found the leak was coming from one of the water feed lines to the turbo which has a small slit on the hose and the coolant was running down that line to the lower rad hose down to the center crossmember and eventually leaking around the tranny area which was throwing me off finding the leak.
I would still do a compression test anyways...just to rule out a bad headgasket and to see if the overheating hasn't affected the headgasket.
I have a 1 core radiator on my car, i used i'm using it for about 1 year already, and it worked fine, 3 days ago the car started to overheat, I saw a leak on the waterpipe that it bolted to the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4-G-rim
Well took it out fixed it, put it back and the car still overheat.
Strange thing is that when I just start the car and leave it running for about 30 min, it works fine,just normal.
When I go for a ride and boost it, it begin to overheat, and when I go back and check, radiator is almost empty..
Look at the oil - if it looks like milky liquid then you have blown headgasket.If you have no leaks around the water pump then you should focus on the termostat. Of what youre saying it looks like it doesnt open the second cycle. How much water do you put in-it should be around 7 quarts or liters
Do the fans turn on at any point?
MKO the oil is fine, no water in it.
I didn't do the compression test yet,I put in another radiator, but I put a little water in the reservior tank,and fill the radiator, went for a ride, come back home, all the water went in the reservior tank.
Btw I also put a net radiatro cap.
Can a small leak make all the water go in the reservior tank?
Sounds like you cracked a head gasket. Go get your gasket replaced, and your head machined. If you let it go much further you will blow the entire head, and than you will have to pay for a new gasket, repairing/ replacing the valves, and anything else that goes into the head. That is a lot more money than a simple gasket, and machining. This is exactly what happened when I owned an MR2. Also, use proper cooling fluid.
Quickest way to tell if you have cracked your head gasket is to smell your exhaust. If it has a sweet smell, you have a crack, but it is not accurate, so even if it doesnt smell, get it checked.
Coolant pushing back into the resevior isn't a good sign.
Like I suggested earlier....do a compression test.
Ok did the compression test, took all 4 sparkplug out: cold start, pist 1:150,pist 2:175, pist 3:175, pist 4:150 psi, hot start: pist 1:150,pist 2:150, pist 3:150, pist 4:150 psi.
What do you guys think...
r these low compression pistons?
9:1.1
why 1.1? is you combustion chamber ported or you have a thicke gasket?
150 is good tho
Your compression results are healthy numbers and doesn't seem to indicate a faulty headgasket.
I talked to a buddy of mine and he has experienced the same exact issue as you and possilby might be the problem with your overheating. Not sure what you did prior to building your motor..but did you get the block hot tanked / cleaned?
The reason is that anywhere where the coolant passeges in the block, there may be a "clog" of various deposits of rust, metal, etc etc that has accumalated in the cooling system somewhere in the block. He was experiencing the same issues as you and he ended up taking apart the motor and found out he has a pretty bad "clog" in one of the cooling passeges towards the cylinder head.
Took the head off today...
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC01017.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC01022.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC01023.jpg
So what do you guys think??headgasket gone?
should have ran a compression test before you took the headgasket off.
but from the looks of it, assuming the gasket came right off w/o any scraping, then I'd say that was what was causing your overheating.
Did the compression test,: cold start, pist 1:150,pist 2:175, pist 3:175, pist 4:150 psi, hot start: pist 1:150,pist 2:150, pist 3:150, pist 4:150 psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCstunr
My car works fine on idle and ran fine, no problems, cold start then ride it for about 10 to 15 minutes and it begin to overheat, all the water in the reservior tank
Well after sending the head to machine shop, I got it back, I put the car back together and it s fine again....
Now I've had issue that oil come out from the front seal, i've put new seal,3 times already but it still does it, I've got also a new oil pump front cover this time, but stilllll I'm getting that problem.....
did u check the crank if it got grooved from the old oil seals
well i saw a small, very thin groove, maybe that's the problem?what can I do in this case?
i really dont know what to tell you. A new crank!
You should ask the guys in the machine shop