stutters and dies...

Lately my car has been wanting to idle around 2-300 after braking for a stop sign, red light, etc... and the car actually died today. I went all winter with no problems whatsoever. It's not throwing a code, and I cannot feel any misfire at all. There's absolutely no engine hesitation while I'm moving, except for my transmission. I unhooked the battery while cleaning and oiling the K&N drop in filter (a week ago), just because that's what I usually do, then the ecu will remap the tranny shifts and such. Now after these drops in RPM, the tranny will hunt a LOT to find the correct gear at almost any speed and it will take a few seconds to stabilize and after that, it's fine and dandy, until I have to stop again.

I had the timing belt serviced a few months ago
I had a new flex pipe installed because i tore the last one up with the crappy winter
I just had my oil changed and air filter cleaned

But without a CEL I have little to go on...

-Clean the inside of the throttle body
-Make sure the throttle cable is snug and not loose
-Make sure you dont have any leaks in the intake system(loose pipe, hole in a pipe, breather line not attached)
-Check the trans fluid

What does it idle at in Park? You can raise the base idle with the BISS screw a tad.

when my battery was acting up I had similar symptoms. Check and clean the terminals and make sure you have a good charge

mine does something similar. when i brake it studders like it want to stall and then comes back up in rpms. mine only dips to 400-500 ish. my mazda started doing it too

I think it has to do with the fuel filter mine did that when i first got my g. Now it is doing it again so im replaceing it again... Mine actually stalls. check to see if thats it. they are cheap like 15 bucks....

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Originally Posted by skrap

I think it has to do with the fuel filter mine did that when i first got my g. Now it is doing it again so im replaceing it again... Mine actually stalls. check to see if thats it. they are cheap like 15 bucks....

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mine is new

Mine had the problem previously, I went through a new battery, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap rotor (maintenance was due anyway) . The problem still persisted even though the car felt stronger when it was running and not stalling. I also changed out 3 IAC/FIAV from all junked 7gs. I also realized the large amount of TB's removed from 7Gs at the yard.

Cleaning the TB didn't fix the problem, but dumping the IAC altogether did. I've also heard of the EGR valve being stuck open.

edit - I also bought an EGR blockoff just in case I run into this problem at some point. The DSM EGR and IAC/FIAV plates both fit on a stock 7g.

Where could i find them at? My car idles at like 1-200 rpms... but then it will rev itself up to like 1500 and then drop down to around 800. Its almost like something is getting cought in the fuel filter or the injectors and there is a back up then it blows it through and its fine.... lol wierd huh?

That's prolly it, when slapping my K&N back in, I always have a tough time with the bottom clip with my fat hands. I probably didn't get it clipped. My battery is brand new, but I'll clean up the terminals anyway. And dang, the tranny fluid is a little low, can I use the III stuff to get by or is the Mitsu stuff really that much better? The tranny was flushed and filled last year.

Fuel filter may be cheap, but my big self has to get under the car to install it, lol...

Its not under the car
its on the left side of your engine bay mounted on your firewall. Yes you need the mistu trans fluid. Thats how i blew mine. They are very finaky transmissions... Its like 7$ per quart. Go to the dealership!!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skrap

Where could i find them at? My car idles at like 1-200 rpms... but then it will rev itself up to like 1500 and then drop down to around 800. Its almost like something is getting cought in the fuel filter or the injectors and there is a back up then it blows it through and its fine.... lol wierd huh?

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That is a bad IAC motor. The IAC(Idle Air Controller) controlls your idle when its cold. When your car is cold, it relys on the FIAV and the IAC to raise the idle to keep it running. A bad IAC will cause the idle to be irratic and go from normal idle to 1500-2000rpm.

Word of advice, I had the IAC block off plate and my car idled great. I could set the idle with the BIIS screw and didnt have the IAC to fight my adjustments. If you live in a cold climate, you may not want this plate as you may either have to hold the gas for a bit until its warm, or raise the idle higher then normal. If you raise the idle for when its cold, once the car warms up, the idle will be pretty high(500-800rpm higher then what it was when it was cold).

Just some information. I loved my blockoff plate and my car idled 10x better then it did before, but its not for everyone.

Like Seth said, on those cold days just don't forget about possibly holding the gas until it warms up enough to maintain itself.

A lot of people said that, but I only had to give it some gas for maybe 10-15 seconds and it held itself. It was a slightly low idle, but once it warmed up, it was a normal idle. But using a remote start probably would not have worked.

Ok where is the iac motor located its not on the tb is it? Isnt that the tps? I dont think the blockoff plate would work for me considering i have to start my car at 5 in the morning.... I cant really be giving it gas that early.

iac and fiav motor are bolted directly to the bottom of the TB. you don't need to give it a ton of gas, just put your foot on it barely enough to get the rpms up

Yeah you're not flooring it for minutes on end lol. If all your TB's are like mine you'll need something along the lines of an impact driver or a good set of pliers to get those screws out that hold the IAC/FIAV to the TB. I stripped one real good before I pulled out the driver. >_<

All bolts on my TB stripped, and i didnt have impact driver. I got a drill bit with the size of the bolt head and drilled all heads only. The bottom part just fell, then used vise grips for the bolt remainings and then I put new bolts in there

Topped off my tranny fluid and I was right in assuming the airbox was not securely clamped. However, the problem still persists, but worse now. Now it won't idle above 200 at all, yesterday and earlier today if I tossed it into neutral, the revs would go up to roughly where they should be 8-900 ish, that's how I kept it going and not dying, now even when I stick it in neutral it still hovers around 200 and dies if I don't keep my foot on the gas.

Disconnect the plug for your IAC and see if anything changes. Check for any leaks in your intake system. A leak before the MAS will not affect your performance, a leak after the MAS will.

OK where could i find the iac blockoff plate at? How much would i be looking at?

Ditto, if it is in fact the IAC, I'd like to take A) the cheaper route and B) the more, erm "tunable" route.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4G63-...QQcmdZViewItem

or

http://www.maperformance.com/jm-fab-...-bolt-dsm.html

Try disconnecting your battery and let the car sit for 10-15 minutes. Re-connect the battery, start the car up, and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes.

It really does sound like when you disconnected and re-connected your battery you didnt let the car sit in "P" long enough. Ive had that problem before. Was fixed simply by disconnecting and re-connecting the battery again, and letting the car sit while running for about 15-20 minutes.

*** When "oiling" your K & N Filter how much oil did you use? If you used too much, you probably messed up your MAS sensor.

i've been going through the same kinda BS. my idle was out for spec for the smog gorillas, so i switched back to my OEM throttle body with the two valves, and it was horrible. the car was studdering and idled like crap. i switched back to my TB w/ blockoff plate, put my TPS sensor into spec, and my idle is flawless now.

I forget how exactly do you tune your tps? I had it out of wack really bad 4 a while and then i tuned it to a feel and it ran ok idk it could be that... Its not 100% spec though

the TPS outputs a voltage range of 0.35v - 5v to the computer to let it know the position of your throttle. ~4.5 - 5v is WOT. anything <~0.9 is idle. the haynes/chilton manual says to set it to 0.9v at idle, but this is usually wrong, as the idle position of the TPS is measured by resistance from the sensor and not the output voltage from the harness.

http://socallifestyle.com/tgc_posts/tps_adjustment.jpg

it is calibrated by using the above. once you get your idle sorted and it's stable, you want to set your TPS (with the car off) to the specs by the closed throttle position switch at the bottom of that page.

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Originally Posted by 6G72Galant

It really does sound like when you disconnected and re-connected your battery you didnt let the car sit in "P" long enough. Ive had that problem before. Was fixed simply by disconnecting and re-connecting the battery again, and letting the car sit while running for about 15-20 minutes.
When "oiling" your K & N Filter how much oil did you use? If you used too much, you probably messed up your MAS sensor.

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A) Overnight, I unhooked the battery again just to make sure, lol. B) As much oil as I always use, and never had an issue. I've cleaned and oiled it at least a dozen times since I got the filter over two years ago. Clean, air dry, light oil (but yet covering the entire surface area), let it air out a while, then install.

So here's the dealio now, in order to keep any more damage from happening to my auto tranny (popping into neutral to rev to keep it from dying), I have heard you can still manually up the idle while the IAC is plugged in. I need to at least do this until I can order the blockoff plate and have it delivered. Or wait, why have a blockoff plate at all, all you need to do is unplug the IAC and it's now it's own plug... So where is this idle adjustment located anywho? I just need my baby to be drivable :(

For a 2g, but close enough:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.html

You are all life savers!!! I'mma dig into this tomorrow when the garage is empty (freezing outside).

Erm, since I'm yanking the IAC out of the equation all together, I won't need to use a scan tool right? Basically play it by ear?

Just an update:

I am definately gonna leave it like this and use the blockoff plate. The rubber cover for the BIIS was missing, kinda random, but whatever, I backed the screw out roughly 720 degrees (2 full turns) and now it idles a lot better than I can remember in recent history.

wow ok i just got a price from the parts guy that i go to for the iac motor the list price is 500!!!!! are you shitting me! ok time for tghe block off plate!!!! and the tps is 160 that rediculious!