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I have never done this. But my front pads need to be replaced. And I figure why not do it myself.
would this be a good tutorial to follow? http://www.cockeyed.com/lessons/brak...eshoes01.shtml if not could someone please point me in the right direction.
that pretty much sums it up. i'd get a real jack and some jack stands instead of that widowmaker.
i usually use the old brake pad to help push the piston back into cylinder.
while you're at it, you might want to paint calipers and bleed the lines for some new brake fluid.
+1 Definitely use the old brake pads, or a disc brake pad spreader to push the caliper piston back in.Quote:
Originally Posted by pinoyesv6
Be sure to note that there is a specific bleed sequence when bleeding your brakes. Never just bleed the front brakes (or vice versa), bleed all, in proper order.Quote:
while you're at it, you might want to paint calipers and bleed the lines for some new brake fluid.
On our 8Gs, you need to bleed as follows:
Right Rear
Left Front
Left Rear
Right Front
Other than that, you will be golden. Putting on pads and rotors is easy.
cool. Thanks Dave and Allan. I am prolly going to tackle this tomorrow or Thursday or 1 of the days I am off next week
when i do mine.. i do use the old pads to depress the piston back
unless you disconnect the caliper from the brake line and you only depress the piston back you dont need to bleed the whole system as long as you do bleed it regularly as honestly air should rarely end up in the line even when i did my whole new rotors calipers and pads i only bled the front as air could only be at the end of that line as it was never pushed up into the system and the level of the master was never low enough for air to enter
its not hard should only take 20 minutes total.. remove the bottom bolt on the caliper... depress the piston pull the old pads put the new ones in then bolt it back up and do the other side then bleed the front if you want.. dont forget the fluid level goes back up when you depress the piston so watch as you might have to remove some old fluid then at the end top it off if needed esp before bleeding
cool thanks Chris
no problem jay.. what pads you putting in???Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
haven't bought anything yet. Just pads, nothing special. Why you got anything special at a great price LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
nah but i just pot in psiquiets and they are amazing.. pads were only like 30 bucks plus shipping.. i had advanced pads and they went in what 8 months so be carefulQuote:
Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
whered you get those? the set I have right now are over a year old. Um I forgot how many milesQuote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
i got pads and rotors from R1 concepts last week.. pads are awesome.. my old rotors didnt take well to new pads back in the spring and they warped
that's what i did a few months ago when i swapped rotors and pads all aroundQuote:
Originally Posted by pinoyesv6
I could do a brake job blind folded in like 30 mins lol
More important than getting a few tiny air bubbles our of your lines, is getting all the wet brake fluid out of your lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Which means it absorbs water moisture. Over time your Brake fluid absorbs water from the air.
The main reason brake fluid is designed to not have water is because it will cause corrosion of your hydraulic brake components. Such as your master cylinder and ABS pumps.
If you have water in yoru lines you will get uneven brakeforce distribution, uneven pad wear from axle to axle, and spongy unresponsive brakes.
Its also important to olue all of your contact points, and lubing the guide and slide pins with moly based brake grease(permatex makes a great one in a white jar w/ green label) If the rubber bushing in the end of the slide pin is torn, you need to go to the dealer and get a new one for like a $1.
Take care of your brakes, and they'll take care of you. I fluch my brakes once a year. But it should be done at least every 2.
that tutorial is pretty weak. He even uses the wrong terms in a lot of instances and he didn't grease the pad, or the contact points, or the slide and guide pins.
This isn't a bad one.
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_t...ace_brakes.htm
Just remember that anywhere there is going to be metal to metal contact you need to grease. except obviously you do not want any grease on the friction surface of the pad or rotor.
This is the grease I use.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg
Its the best. Do not use plain old axle grease because it will cook and dry up.
nice find
nice tutorial John.
one more question. How large of a C clamp will I need for this? Or am I just better off buying the proper toll to compress the piston? I saw it at Harbor freight for only 6 bucks yesterday
Sorry for the thread necromancy but I'm tackling my ('03 ES) brakes this weekend and bought a 6" clamp. Wondering if its big enough?
You should actually be able to compress the pistons with your fingers. If you find its too hard, turn the pistons with a pair of channel locks (pliers) in a clockwise direction and try again. This is what I've been doing and it's been working great. If you do plan on bleeding your brakes; you need some help. Some one will need to compress the brakes for you while you loosen the bleeder. They will need to keep the brakes compressed until you tighten the bleeder after fluid comes out of it. They will need to pump the brakes (5-6 times) and you can then either bleed the caliper again or bleed a different caliper.
Just a heads up. You'll be kicking yourself in the ass if you bust a bleeder off. I would recommend picking up some anti-seize:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_bqGQAyE5rg...0/P1280017.JPG
You can apply this to your bleeders once you get them out to prevent a headache in the future.
Also keep an eye on your reservoir because you will need to add more at some point. If you happen to run out, you will need to bleed out the entire system as you'll have air in the proportioning valve which will result in air in the lines. If you plan on taking the bleeders out, gravity will leak fluid out of your system making your reservoir deplete even faster.
If you decide to take it to a garage, i sure they wont do the preventative work for you.
Good luck! It's not hard to do, it's just a lot of things to remember while your doing it.
I havent bled my brakes since like.. 04 when I got the car. I've done 2 or 3 brake pad jobs and each time I just depressed the piston, one time I had to actually change the caliper as the piston boot ripped and messed up my rims. Should I go ahead and get some of these self-bleeders? Also, how the hell do you bleed the rear drums?
and has anyone used speed bleeders?
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
you dont. just do the rear disk swap :D then youlll just be bleeding rears disks lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Serstylz2
yup. did the job on my brembo cal. although i really only did it once.Quote:
Originally Posted by Serstylz2
which speed bleeders would i order.. don't feel like takin my wheel off just to measure :)
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/