What are the best pistons and rods to use for this swap and should i get both my ev0 8 head and 4g64 bottom block ported and polished??
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What are the best pistons and rods to use for this swap and should i get both my ev0 8 head and 4g64 bottom block ported and polished??
you cant port and polish the bottom of the block.
heres an articale on what port and polish is
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...0153704AA3hLSy
polishing is worth less, the say to knock off the excess bumps, well that is just extra money you are wasting. Take a look at a brad anderson hemi, and look at the head they are CnCed and you can see and feel the ridges left. If polishing made such a difference do you think they would do it to a Pro Mod? When each of the head in in excess of 6000 dollars a peice?
cp pistons, crower rods, my preference. and as mentioned, typically you would p&p the head and b&b the bottom end
wuts b&b mean?
and how much money am is the DOHC swap cost and is it worth the money?
approx how much whp do u gain?
well I have the kia head swap and have oversized valves crower springs new valve guides and lifters (valves, guides and lifters bought as a set got then for just over 200 crower springs I got for 185 shipped head was machined for 435 bucks no p&p evo manifold was 100 evo fuel rail was about 50 bucks evo cams were 100that does not include evo tb which I have yet to pick up but they go for about 100
But thats nt even half the parts needed for the swap..all of it seem s to add up to about 5 grand if im not mistaken..and if im gonna spend 5 grand i want a big gain in horses..if its not more than 30 whp then it just doesnt seem worth it..5 grand can go into another car really so how many horses am i lookin at?
Wow dude seriously you haven't done your home work at all, the price also depends if you can do the installation or if your going to have a shop do it for you, Do you really think a 5k headswap can yield you 30hp lol, your body probably can't even tell the difference of 30hp +/-. If done right a stock 4g64 motor with a evo 8 turbo can get you 250-300whp, a evo 8 headswap + evo turbo could get you 300+ if you swap a bigger turbo and forged internals you can get 500+
Read This post #5 have's links to many DOHC build threads:
http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/13...ch-button.html
If you don't start doing your homework like you should your going to end up blowing your engine.
"balanced & blueprinted" more of an excessive perfectionist thing nowadays. done more often in the past with muscle cars. if you're looking to build the bottom end, depending on desired power output, an overbore with sleeving and forged internals should be plenty.
So balancing is only for excessive perfectionists building muscle cars? Interesting......
Why exactly would you want to sleeve the bottom end of our cast iron block? Ohh wait, thats because you wouldnt. This is a not a honda. The engine uses a cast iron block, not aluminum. So why would he benefit from boring a huge hole, removing a ton of cast iron material, to then install a cast iron sleeve into its place? Moral of the story... dont comment about stuff you yourself dont know about. This is what causes other people to blow their shit up and waste money.
polishing helps trust me its more on the eye candy side but it helps sell.
Ive done porting and flowing my self with an actual flow bench and let me tell you the gains you can get from porting a head is great if done right.
Smdh..5 grand can get you another car with better potential so what the point of doing this job to create potential..sure after you do the swap you can mod your car but that after you just dropped 5 grand..is it really worth it when that 5 grand can be a down payment on an evo that can blow whatever you make out of the water with just a few mods..just doesnt make sense to me to do this swap unless you have hella money and no life outside of your car..5 grand for one project seems retarded if its jus makin potential and not a significant gain in horses..trust me ive done research and i understand what this swap actually does for you and its doesnt impress me at all..so back to what i said..its a $5k project for probably 20-30 horses and the pontential for 500+whp..doesnt seem worth it..might as well get a faster car
5k= im getting a faster car
wow you obviously are lost on building engines....If the evo was putting down 300-500 WHP (non turbo/turbo) with stock internals then we woundnt be doing head swaps and internal builds, WED JUST SWAP THE WHOLE FUCKING ENGINE.
Your asking if you should port your Block. that means you dont even know why your using your block and swapping heads. Cast iron cant be polished and porting it would weaken it. you ever see grand ma polishing her cast iron skillets....???......NO cause YOU CANT FUCKING POLISH CAST IRON.
Your asking how much whp you get from doing the swap without us having ifor like what size internals your upgrading to what size injectors your gonna use fuel ratio fuel pump fuel type manual or auto blah blah blah. do us a favor and just buy another car. get a honda and you can bolt a blender to the fuse box and get a good 100 whp and smoothies to go too.
i thought you would assume that i want the most of of the swap since im supposedly spending 5k on it but of course you ddnt take that in mind..your so busy trying to sound cool to your forum buddies..but its all good..if that makes your day by all means do it..cant even ask questions on a forum these days with out the dickheads of the world leaving their smart remarks instead of actual information that can help someone..smh
actually..ill probably do the swap next year..i just dnt have the money lmfao!!!
I said I was done but really, i understand that if your new well we can give some pointers, links you should read in order to start learning what the mods do etc. I don't know why you would think a headswap or turbo would give you only 30 hp, It more than that if those mods would only increase 30hp nobody would do it.
What I stated here VVV isn't potential is real power if you get the supporting mods, injectors, fuel pump etc. and a good tuner. Read the link I gave ya below
Quote:
Wow dude seriously you haven't done your home work at all, the price also depends if you can do the installation or if your going to have a shop do it for you, Do you really think a 5k headswap can yield you 30hp lol, your body probably can't even tell the difference of 30hp +/-. If done right a stock 4g64 motor with a evo 8 turbo can get you 250-300whp, a evo 8 headswap + evo turbo could get you 300+ if you swap a bigger turbo and forged internals you can get 500+
Read This post #5 have's links to many DOHC build threads:
http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/13...ch-button.html
I've seen you interested and asking question but your questions don't reflect that you have read and done your research, if you want to mod your car you need to read and read and read if after all that reading if you have questions then you can start a thread with more direct questions.Quote:
Check this thread:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-eng...ck-thread.html
1st post states Evo motor specs and 2nd post give you an idea of the 4g64 with evo head.
I am trying the best I can but you haven't demonstrated that you have SEARCHED and READ.
Ight..i apologize for bein a dick..i was just frustrated because im reading awhole lot of different shit that contradict each other..sorry man i dnt want to make enemies i just want facts..thanks for the link..
first off, with your almighty g63 hybrid swap, did you have the bottom end done? no because the components usually come balanced from factory. when you are using aftermarket components for a full build, sometimes you will want to have everything rebalanced if you are attempting to streamline every aspect of the motors operation in order to make it work and flow together properly. i say it was done more in the past because it was more of a gimmick selling point when completely building a motor from the bottom up, not that it was limited to "perfectionists building muscle cars" which is a clear misrepresentation of my original statement. also if you consider the fact that machining capabilities and the resulting qualities, you'll see why the balance/blueprint work was far more common and useful/applicable than it is today when in regards to a mild d.i.y. build. when using my original statement in regards to a conversion or swap, the work would not necessitate this sort of thing because you are already installing assembled, hopefully matched, components where the only reason to have the thing rebalanced, etc, would be able to be considered an "unnecessary" perfectionism in most cases.
in regards to sleeving the block. obviously you have no idea what you are talking about because had you been more interested in the field in which you pretend to be an enthusiast, you would know that a number of race applications involving the 4g63 involve sleeving the block because even though the cast iron block is much stronger than, for example, the newer 4b11 in the evo x, with repetitive use, and considering we are discussing a used motor here, it is still succeptible to wear and damage at super high output (please excuse the ford reference) applications, not to mention potential imperfections and impurities based on previous use and abuse that would lead to future failure, where boring and sleeving the block would be more effective than, say, simply honing the block and potentially resulting in thinner cylinder walls dependent on how much material is removed. i agree with you, though, that with this particular example, this sort of abuse or the conditions that would necessitate such heavy modification would be highly unlikely to be seen.
the op was talking about doing a full build for maximum potential, in which case i was giving some options. although i agree that it is unlikely to happen this way, i still feel that you calling me a liar when you are basing this on your own perception of the work that "should" be done is unnecessary as i was merely offering another optional route that may be persued in online shopping fantasy world.
edit: i also want to thank whomever it was (not in this thread per-se, but somewhere on here) that gave me the -2k rating to make me the supreme douche that i am today. that's awesome and i'm glad i could contribute to the community in such a way
rule #1 of the internet: You cant believe everything you read on the internet
couldnt agree more. you want the right actual answers regarding what exactly you are planning on doing? go to a shop, lay out your ideas, and let them tell you what is and isnt going to happen. that or do it yourself and see what comes of that. end of story.
and on that note, in all fairness, i would love to continue a more civil debate via private message if you so desire, so as not to clutter another person's thread further; and would like to apologize if the comments i made were more offensive than would be considered normally acceptable as well, but in my own defense: the attack was made upon me first with no solid backing, based on misinterpretation of my statements, and i feel that i reacted accordingly
First off, remove your head from your ass and pay attention.
I have had a built bottom end in my car since day #1. So again, here you are running on and on about stuff you know nothing about.
So your saying that since manufacturing techniques and quality of engine internals have improved since "the old days" its acceptable to not have your parts balanced. Acceptable to who? Acceptable to the guy building the motor in his garage by himself with improper tools who doesnt have enough money to build the motor so he cuts any corner that he can to save money. Thats the only guys its acceptable to. Anyone with common sense who is going to man up and spend about $2000+ to build a bottom end wont have an issue spending another few hundred dollars to have it all balanced correctly. Yes brand new quality parts such as forged rods come in "matched sets" which say each rod is within spec weight wise compared to each other. That still doesnt mean you skip balancing.
How many people do you know with sleeves in their 4G63 motor? Not talking about people your looking up on the internet via google, I mean how many people do you actually know running a sleeved block in a 4G63? The fastest EVO's in the country are using regular cast iron 4G63 and 4G64 blocks. English Racings EVO put down over 1100whp on a stock .020 overbored 4G64 block. I have quite a few friends with high powered 4G63 and 4G64 motors, not a single one of them runs sleeves. The most common time you see people putting sleeves in these blocks is in order to save the block, meaning the block has already been bored as much as it can be, the walls arent straight or are damaged, and rather than buying a new block, they sleeve it to render the block re-usable.
Secondly, where do you get off saying that I pretend to be an enthusiast for this platform?I hold a good amount of credibility both on this platform and this forum due to my experience and willingness to help others. I have been to hell and back with the 8g platform as a whole.
What do you have done to your car? Clear corners and a JDM air freshener? You have only been a member for about 2 months, you have 44 posts, a ton of negative rep and looking at the info you have contributed to the site, it seems like all your good for is looking up JDM part#'s, rambling misinformation about stuff you know nothing about and being an douche bag.
If I knew who it was I would shake their hand. Your just about as bad as TJ but he was far more amusing and actually had first hand experience with the information he posted about.
No solid backing whatsoever, I (stewi) have never even worked on my own galant, I even bring my car to the dealer to have the air-freshener replaced.
Have a nice day. : )
I never heard of DSMs or Evos sleeving their blocks. We dont drive Hondas now....
Anyone who is going to spend $2000+ on building a shortblock is going to spend the extra $100 investment to balance it. You balance your wheels right, and they dont cost $2000 or spin at 6000rpm.
He said Stewi was dumb, it made me ROFL, I can vouch for Stewi he knows what hes talking about because I did the swap also, but IMO I think this thread should be deleted, due to the fact of stupidity that fills this subject.
I personally LOL'd and almost fell down laughing when he was so quick to point out that I have a stock factory bottom end : )
I have to agree though, while sort of amusing, this thread is full of fail, rid this place of this rubbish.
tsk tsk.
We cant just ban everyone who disagrees with you. That would be communist.
You guys said your peace. Leave it alone
Who said anything about banning?
When I said rid this place of the rubbish I was referring to the thread as a whole, not one thing useful in this thread.
agreed