Attempted this and it has been a fail so far. I got the amp to power and sub but for some reason the sub isnt thumping/...
Can someone share a guide or show pics to where they grounded their audio tap and amp?
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Attempted this and it has been a fail so far. I got the amp to power and sub but for some reason the sub isnt thumping/...
Can someone share a guide or show pics to where they grounded their audio tap and amp?
If you have power to the sub and amp but it's not hitting, I would guess to check the rca's or the speaker wires from the amp to the box.
how did you get through the firewall? did you go out the wire harness into the fender? or did you go straight through the firewall and drill a new hole?
Ground the signal converter to chassis as well as the amp.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirSaula
Drill hole on firewall, be very careful.Quote:
Originally Posted by mg09i4
what do you think about going through the fender and through the grommet that goes to the door so therefore youre wires are already near the carpet?
^ I wouldn't, unless you have your door off and the fender off and you drill a hole there too, I wouldn't do it.
why not? i dont really wanna drill a hole in my fire wall.. and i dont want to go through the other normal wire harness because that requires me to remove the whole fender
Correct, remove the fender. Which is why its easier to just drill a hole, trust me it sounds complicated but every car has a spot. It's the only way I would run power wires to amps.
I won't go through the door unless the fender is removed to so I can secure the wire away from the door, you can kink open the wire overtime with opening and closing the door.
ok, so is the main reason just not having a stable place to rest the cable? i can get to the cable through the wheel well and run the cable through the grommet that has the wiring for the driver door
In order to secure the wire from dangling and getting caught on the spinning wheel you need to secure it to something sturdy using cable ties, which is why I'd rather not do that personally.
This is xd-01 car, notice his power wire secured to the factory harness using multiple zip ties, unless you're car is taken apart like this you won't be able to do it correctly in this manner. That wire poses a major threat if not secured right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
agh. someone else on the forum just phished the power wire through the fender and from the battery to the grommet... thanks for all the help especially with the remote turn on lead. this is so much dam work just for some bass
It's not that bad, Get under the steering wheel, you should see a cut in the sound deadener material, pull it back and you'll see where the clutch master cylinder would be located on the firewall. Look for a big circular indent with two smaller indents on either side. Drill one of those small indents, they were meant to be drilled anyway, you won't damage anything doing so. Make sure you use a grommet or a whole heaping helping of tape to keep the metal from digging into the insulation and creating a dangerous short. I've been going strong with my setup through the firewall with no problems.
Edit: You have a 9G, I'm not sure if the indents are there, but you still should be fine.
I ran mine through the fender. Spray silicone spray and shove through the groment. I ran a 4 gauge wire.
if your running 4g you can run it through the fender and through the grommet. if your running 0/1awg bite the button and just cut a whole where the clutch goes. if you decide to sell the car put one of those drywall patches on there and feel it and paint the hole oem color on both sides and replace the deadner cutout. lol no well ever know shhh.
ive done it both ways this is 0awg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g7...106_170714.jpg
So you see OP, through firewall is hands down the safest and easiest way to do it. Why do you think car manufactures run their ECU harness through there and not fender?
Easy, one good tire blow out and it rips the harness leaving you completely stranded.
do you still have your factory amplifier?
If u run the wire thru the firewall put a grommet in the hole so u wnt cut up the wire thats wht I did 4 the amp thats under my passenger seat.
Yea I drilled through the firewall, didnt use a grommet ( I know it's recommended) but no problems after over a year. And that was 4 gauge power wire. I never trusted running the wires through the fender.
I went straight throught the fender. I took it off it made things alot easier. Also there is a rubber gromet that i didnt have to cut jut lift. I ran wires all the way to the back opening the side parts that are made out of plastic. also in the trunk i grounded both my amplifiers to the car itself. I used self taping screws. it has not been a problem yet.
no but really dohh, you still have you're factory amp?
I just installed mine about 2 weeks ago and what I did is I got the scoche wiring kit and then put one end around the positive (make sure your negative is out before attempting anything....) Then I had to remove the battery from the car and then pull back some of the firewall insulation. From the inside of the car where the clutch would be if there was one was a little hole with a screw's end facing toward us (so that you could unscrew it) So I slowly drilled a little bit bigger each time till the wire could fit through. Then I just lifted the panels up and went through the whole car. Up until I got the the back seat. Went under that and to the amp. Then from the amp I used the RCA and the turn on and went on the otherside of the car and got those panels up. If you still need more help I will post some pics when I do it again in a couple of days for my second amp.