Serious short problem. I need some assistance

Hey guys my car has been being a pain for the last few months now. My battery keeps on draining on me if I don't go to turn it on everyday. I turned it on for 4 days straight and on the 5th day it was already drained. I have a trickle charger to constantly charge it up for me but that gets annoying. Here are a few things I have done electrically.

Battery relocated to the trunk. Positive brought through the whole car and the ground is hooked up to the body where the center of the spare tire would go

Alarm system was installed by Best Buy years ago but I don't remember the last time the alarm actually worked. It's a viper

Hid headlight kit with relay installed

Side markers on fenders wired

Jdm tails wired

Maxima fog lights wired for fog covers

Boost, afr, and oil pressure gauges

Also my marker lights fuse will blow. I put my marker lights on to use a test light on my brake marker to wire a rear fog light but the right side of my cars lights cut off. Then my headlights stopped coming on as well. I know a little bit about wiring but I need a little help with this problem. Definitely a short somewhere. Any advice I will be grateful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what was the most recent mod done? Did you splice your side markers into you to the headlight indicators? Check those connections. If you know which fuse your blowing I would start chasing down the short there if all you other mods are in order. If it was me I would undo everything until I found the problem.
GL

- - - Updated - - -

what was the most recent mod done? Did you splice your side markers into you to the headlight indicators? Check those connections. If you know which fuse your blowing I would start chasing down the short there if all you other mods are in order. If it was me I would undo everything until I found the problem.
GL

Yes I wired the makers into the headlights. I did this today but the battery has been draining for a long while.

Think I might have to use a little bit bigger fuse since I spliced into them?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I dont think a bigger fuse will fix it, maybe hide the problem but youll still have possible short somewhere. Start with the battery, is it old mayld maybe its on its last leg. Diconnect it and charge it over night then see how many volts it drops over course of 24 hours, or just take it to the parts store to be tested. Usually its free

But really a weak battery isnt gonna blow a fuse and I think if you trace that out youll find your problem. Get yourself some wiring diagrams.

- - - Updated - - -

No I dont think a bigger fuse will fix it, maybe hide the problem but youll still have possible short somewhere. Start with the battery, is it old mayld maybe its on its last leg. Diconnect it and charge it over night then see how many volts it drops over course of 24 hours, or just take it to the parts store to be tested. Usually its free

But really a weak battery isnt gonna blow a fuse and I think if you trace that out youll find your problem. Get yourself some wiring diagrams.

So you haven't ruled out the battery?

The battery is pretty much brand new. Would there be a problem if there is too many things hooked up to the positive terminal of the battery? I have my SparkTech,Hids, and I think another thing hooked up to it. I'm going to buy one of those volt readers today so I can get started on it. Thanks for your help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of battery is it?

I'm using a Duralast battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you checked for obvious chafing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've gone over most of the wires to see if anything is touching or warn out but haven't found anything yet. Today in going to look under my dash and under the motor to get a better look at a few things. I want to check out the alarm system as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update:

Put the volt meter on the battery after charging it for about 24 hours. I'm sure the battery isn't fully charged but it was reading roughly around 11ish. After that I checked around under the dash to notice a few open wires very close to each other. I ended up taping and covering all that off. Then I'm looking around and I see two grounds on top of each other by my pedals. Took those apart and gave them there own separate areas. My fuze blew to one of my marker light sides a few days ago so I replaced it back with the 10 fuze. Lights seem to be coming on much quicker with no blown fuze so far.

Checked the battery again with the volt meter to see that it went from a solid 11 to a solid 13.

Would you say I might be in the right track?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I probably would've done a continuity test between the open wire and the fuse slot to see its that was the root cause of the blown fuse but definitely your on the right track. I suspect it has something to do the with way your wired the sidemarkers though. Im just guessing since I don't really know the whole rundown of how it all happen though, blown fuses drive me nuts. Does it blow as soon you turn on the running lights? How bout if you have the lights off and click on your right hand turning signals, doesit blow too?

I would rule the battery though, I don't see why it would blow a fuse to the chassis harness unless you wired that circuit directly to the battery.

- - - Updated - - -

I probably would've done a continuity test between the open wire and the fuse slot to see its that was the root cause of the blown fuse but definitely your on the right track. I suspect it has something to do the with way your wired the sidemarkers though. Im just guessing since I don't really know the whole rundown of how it all happen though, blown fuses drive me nuts. Does it blow as soon you turn on the running lights? How bout if you have the lights off and click on your right hand turning signals, doesit blow too?

I would rule the battery though, I don't see why it would blow a fuse to the chassis harness unless you wired that circuit directly to the battery.

This draining problem has been going on for quite some time now. I noticed that after I wired the markers and would turn them on it would be a slight delay. After a few times the fuse blows. After doing those few things with those exposed wires and moving the grounds I would turn on my markers and no more delay or blown fuse, so far at least. Battery was stable at close to 13 for leaving the terminals on all night. So far so good but I'm still going to check every little thing.

I hate blown fuses too man lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More update

Went to turn on my lights and the drivers side marker fuse blew again. The battery level stayed the same as a few days ago so that's good. I'm going to try and check those wires for the marker I did.

When I tried starting the car it wouldn't turn on at all. I hear a constant clicking noise coming from some of the relays in the fuse box under the hood. One for headlights and another one that has to do with the engine symbol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Battery has enough juice to crank it?? Starter good??

Disconnect those markers. And see how the car does.

I did it but now the relays are going crazy and car won't crank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick question guys. You know the two metal pieces on the wiring harness that gets bolted down to the top rear of our valve cover? Do those have something to do with grounding anything or are they just small brackets built in to the harness to hold it in place?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just mounting tabs, they aren't grounding points


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bench test the relays.

^ Just bought a multimeter. Going to test the relays tomorrow.

Found a blown 25 fuse under the hood. Looks like it was wired to the fans. I'll do some testing tomorrow to see if I'm getting closer to the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update

Found why my market fuse kept blowing. I back tracted everything in the marker wiring and noticed there was a crimp in two wires in the tail lights and exposed touching the body. Taped them up and no more blown fuse

The positive terminal would have a decent size spark when putting the cable on. Since the battery is located in the trunk I unplugged the trunk light. That seemed to bring the spark down a little but not enough. I looked around in the engine compartment and noticed the wire to the starter was off. I put that back on and now the spark seems to be much less then before. My battery is also keeping its charge everyday that goes by so maybe I fixed the problem. I will post up if there are issues again. Thanks for all the help guys.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool Im glad you figured it out. Wiring is tricky but having the FSM diagrams helps a lot.