4g63t Weakest link?

ok when i get my stock 4g63t, what will be the weakest link? what should i upgrade first? of course ill have a k&n air filter and 2.5" exhaust but engine and tranny wise, how much boost can a stock 4g63t and 2g 5spd handle?

Wow.. I actually learned some of this from owning a Talon https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

Uhm, first off.. register at www.dsmtuners.com

So what are you exactly doing Seth? Are you building a 4g63T from just a regular 4g63? Because I was told the "air box" mod, MAF sensor mod, and to replace the stock return tubing from the intercooler. All of this can be found at the site above.

either a 6bolt 4g63t or i might try to get a jdm 6g vr4 front clip, most likely the 6bolt 4g63t since its the most realistic

wow, didnt know about dsmtuners.com, i read dsmtalk and go to dsmtrader all the time though

that is a very nice performance guide they have their! i think i know what i want to do now, anyone have any tips?

www.buschurracing.com and www.machv.com and www.extrememotorsports.com have upgrade paths also. www.roadraceengineering.com also does, as well as some good tech articles.

Hey seth i thought you were doing the 4g63 headswap what happened? Want more power?

If you are going with the 6 bolt from a 1g the weak link is the exhaust manifold. Get a 2g manifold. Check out www.dsm.org for tips and tricks.

yah im plannin on getting a 2g exhaust mani, may have it ported too, all depends on how much money is left over after i get all my parts. i have a spare 14b here that im going to have sent out, rebuild, and ported then installed in place of the stock 14b that the 6bolt came w/

so what hp should i see w/ this setup. lets talk stock 4g63t internals, untouched head, k&n filter, ported 14b, stock 2g exhaust mani, 2.5" or 3" cat back exhaus, and aftermarket bovt?

aftermarket BOV=GHEY

Depending on the motor make sure you have a stock first gen BOV, its good for 24 psi and aftermarket is a waste of money.

You will want 3 inch exhuast, 2.5 is okay but it will be wise to upgrade to 3 inch.

Weak links are the drivetrain. Depending on how many miles are on the tranny the scynchros can be going and or grinding

I havent heard many guys complain about exhuast manifolds. On a stock block it can handle around 20-22 psi...keep in mind with good fuel upgrades...race gas, fmic, and good engine managment

Thats at race..i would keep it at 15 psi daily driven.. Ported exhuast manifold is okay but really not the neceesary. I know guys pushing 395 at the WHEELs with stock exhuast manifold.

hmmm im thinking of getting a 6g vr4 front clip for $2k shipped, 240hp...waste? or should i just get a 1g 6bolt?

ClickHere

i dont have the hookup to a 2g tranny anymore, hyper are there any in good condition up in chitown?

www.automotosports.com

talk to kris about trannys..he might be able to locate them



as for a vr4 front clip...thats a waste of money. YOu can get a nice 6 bolt for 1400 on average. Its the same motor pretty much

1g manifolds crack, that is why I suggested getting a 2g, plus the 2g is bigger. The guy is putting on a 14b. I wouldnt get full 3 inch. I would go with a 2.5 downpipe, 3 inch cat, 3 inch cat back. If you get to big on a small turbo you will have boost creep. I am running a 20g on my dsm and I still dont run full 3 inch exhaust.

I don't know I'm getting cat-back for my eclipse, and my friend suggested going full 3". He is also using a 2.5" HKS exaust, with a bigger turbo. I believe there's a mod you can do to the wastegate (something that has to do with the flapper in the wastegate), that will take care of the boost creep.

hmmm well im pretty sure im going to be upgrading to a 16g turbo sometime next year so i may just go w/ 3"...does anyone nkow for sure about the boost creep? i knew that the 3" exhaust sometimes caused it, but does anyone know for sure of the fix? thanks

I know that my friend with a talon used to get boost creep with only 2.5" piping, and he did the wastegate flapper mod. My other friend with GSX got boost creep with 3" Apexi exhaust and downpipe, he just bought a better, external wastegate for his car.

As long as you have a boost gauge, you will be fine, you can't floor on the car while you have boost creep, but usually you have to cut yourself off after 4K rpm or so.

Also some 4g63T with higher mileage will have worn out valve-stem seals, those can be replaced fairly cheap. Here in WA I can get mine replaced, with new timing belt and water pump for 500 bucks, and that includes parts as well as the labor. You can tell that they are worn out if your car lets out some blue smoke when you start the car, or when you begin moving or when you floor it. It's not a lot of smoke, that's why it can't be the piston rings.

I'd suggest getting a whole front end of the car, JDM VR-4 (2K tops) is the best one to get, and if you got some cash you can get the evo-3 front clip (4-5K). This way you can transfer most of the things from that car onto your incuding IC, and all the wires.

yah i was considering that, but im buying a 1g talon thats across the street. its a 6bolt and probably wont cost me a whole lot https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

a 34mm internal wastegate flapper should take care of any boost creep on a 14b/16g

I got the downpipe, exhaust (3" all the way) and no boost creep. Maybe after i get the intake and pull out the lower honecomb, there will be some boost creep, but you never know.

what do you guys think about using gm translators, 3" intake piping, and venting the BOV to the atmosphere?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth)</div><div class='quotemain'>what do you guys think about using gm translators, 3" intake piping, and venting the BOV to the atmosphere?</div>

what about it? i want to get a translator to help spool-up (and ofcoure vent to atmosphere lol) i don't know about the 3" piping. with my setup, 2.5" piping barely fit, but i have a short-route setup so it might work with a different setup.

excuse me for asking a dumb question, but what is a translator?

it lets us use a hotwire mas (the gm 3" or 3.5") which allows us to put the air meter after the bov so that if we want to vent to atmosphere, that air was never counted in the first place so we don't have to worry about running rich when letting off on the gas. in addition, it's more free flowing than the stock air meter, and helps decrease spool-up time

http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/ncommer...9839&cat2=29840