REPLACING 8G REAR MOTOR ENGINE MOUNT/REAR ROLLER

are you replacing the entire mount or just with an insert either wayyou would have to remove the mount from the car. to do this you will need a jack and 2 jackstands. and Various sockets and a socket wrech, a 5" Extension and a breaker bar or any old metal pipe which will help with leveral on stubborn bolts. You want to jack the car up, put it on jack stands. Then remove the K frame cross member. This is the large metal beam that runs front to back right under your front bumper, I believe it is secured by 6 bolts. This is also houses your front engine mounts so you want to take the bolt out of that as well. next step Take the bolt out of the rear engine mount. Now you want to Support the engine/tranny with that Jack, I recommend placing a block of wood on the jack and support it right from the oil pan. Now Lossen take the bolt out of both side mounts. one this is done the motor will be only supported by the jack so be careful, slowly lower the jack down about 8 inches, this should give you all the clearance you need. now unbolt the mount and pull it out, replace it with your new mount. If your new mount is just a center insert you want to take it to a shop and they have to use a hydraulic press to remove and press in the new mount. Hope this helps.

you're making it way to difficult for everybody, at least if you are providing instructions for a v6.

to remove the rear mount, yea, take out the cross member and the front mount.

place the jack under the oil pan, or tranny and jack it up til the engine just barely starts to move. also note that you should put a piece of wood between the oil pan/tranny and the jack so you don't make unecessary holes in the car.

then all you do is remove the two bolts from under the mount, the bolt on the top of the mount, and the throughbolt.

no need to touch the side mounts at all if all you're replacing is the rear mount.

a lil tip to put back the rear mount. do the through bolt first. then do the top bolt. then once the top bolt is tight, the two bottom bolts should be lined up.

but yea, here's a link to the part of the servic manual that addresses the mounts

man i wish i was this hands-on on my galant.. i paid my mechanic 500bucks for my engine mounts.. and couple of other stuff..

Hey guys, I recently bought a whole engine mount set, since the original ones are literally gone and my dash shakes violently. I never replaced a mount before and I have basic mech skills, should I give it a try? or just fork out the money for someone else to do it?

I understand i need the following:

x2 jack stands
x1 jack
and the wrenches.

U need sockets not wrenches. It isn't hard. Buy a haynes manual and that should help u. It's straight forward

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by spdracr

U need sockets not wrenches. It isn't hard. Buy a haynes manual and that should help u. It's straight forward

---

My bad, and thanks fo reminding me about the haynes manual.

-2 jack stands
-1 STURDY jack. None of those scissor jacks
-sockets you need are 12mm (I think) 14mm, and maybe more than that. Just get a set that ranges from like 10mm-19mm and you'll be fine.
-Ratchet
-Breaker bar (or some old piping to extend the ratchet.. which is obviously less safe).
-Torque Wrench to be able to put everything back to spec.

Great news!, my mounts finally arrived and im exited. This coming Friday I will buy the tools and work on my car the day after [Thanks Beam514]. These are unknown waters for me ><, I will try to document everything I can for future reference.

PS-
Where do i position both jack stands? I was thinking on the same line, where you normally place the scissor jack. Also i heard is good to have a piece of wood on the jack to lift the engine, surprisingly enough is hard for me to find that, what else could I use?

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1105/...324d4cd45c.jpg

Whered you order your mounts from? And what was the total with shipping?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Joshua42007

Whered you order your mounts from? And what was the total with shipping?

---

Off Ebay, these were the best quality for price I could find. the total was 199$ [shipping included]

Hey guys Im almost done, but I came to a stop when I got to the transaxle mount. I can get it loose but I cant get it out since i have to lift it out, and it collides with the metal part attached to the chassis, that the mount was previously connected to.

Any thoughts?

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/...9049b8cb68.jpg

Jacking up the transaxle may provide the clearance you need.

I think you have a few choices.

Either
A) Remove the front and rear mounts so that the engine + transmission can pivot on the passenger side mount, then lower it until you get enough clearance. I wouldn't do this unless you had the engine fully supported with a jack and an engine hoist. And actually if the axles are still attached, you would want to avoid moving the engine + transmission as much as possible.

B) find the thread size of the studs that hold on the driver side mount. Obtain the corresponding nuts, and then put them on the studs on top of the existing nuts. Then remove the studs by "loosening" the nuts that are now underneath the new nuts, which should remove the stud. The extra nut acts like a gripping force to turn the stud instead of the nut, and this prevents damage to the stud by using something like pliers (which you should never use).

Hope that helps

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beam514

I think you have a few choices.

Either
A) Remove the front and rear mounts so that the engine + transmission can pivot on the passenger side mount, then lower it until you get enough clearance. I wouldn't do this unless you had the engine fully supported with a jack and an engine hoist. And actually if the axles are still attached, you would want to avoid moving the engine + transmission as much as possible.

B) find the thread size of the studs that hold on the driver side mount. Obtain the corresponding nuts, and then put them on the studs on top of the existing nuts. Then remove the studs by "loosening" the nuts that are now underneath the new nuts, which should remove the stud. The extra nut acts like a gripping force to turn the stud instead of the nut, and this prevents damage to the stud by using something like pliers (which you should never use).

Hope that helps

---

I went with option A and worked great, THANKS!. Although Opt. B is a also a great idea to apply to other stuff. Now I got all of my mounts set in, the hardest one to replace was the rear mount since I had to align the whole engine with the mount holder.

I did replace front and back mounts.
Took 30min. total.
I did remove the front one first, it's a joke to do providing you have a long extension for your ratchet.
No need to remove the crossmember at all.
Everything can be done from the top (except installing the jack under the trans.)
For the back one, remove the battery and battery tray, you then have room to access the rear mount.
Remove the 3 bolts that holds down the mount, then the long cross bolt.
It require some stretching to reach the bolts that are on the opposite side of the mount, but some exercise doesn't hurt!!!!!!!
I didn't see any cracks on my transmission mount, so I didn't have to fight with that.
Now the car is so comfortable! No more shaking...
I got the parts from my local autoparts store, about $85 total.