When I start my car, the idle stays at 1500rpms until about 10-15 minutes then it slowly goes down to 1000rpms. After about 15-20 minutes of driving, it idles at 750.
Is this normal?
-Mike.
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When I start my car, the idle stays at 1500rpms until about 10-15 minutes then it slowly goes down to 1000rpms. After about 15-20 minutes of driving, it idles at 750.
Is this normal?
-Mike.
no. it should idle at about 1200 to 1400 for the first few minutes, max.
it should then settle into a 750 rpm idle after slowly decreasing to it.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(manybrews)</div><div class='quotemain'>no. Â*it should idle at about 1200 to 1400 for the first few minutes, max.
it should then settle into a 750 rpm idle after slowly decreasing to it.</div>
Should I adjust the idle screw? or the Throttle Body cable?
-Mike.
Throttle body cable, but I will certainly defer to Manybrews if he chimes in. Do you know where that 2 screw bracket is on the back side of the engine compartment? The thing is this car has a very sophisticated computer for better or worse and it wants to do what Manybrews said unless its being physically forced not to. Do not touch the idle screw.
I just added an AEM CAI and tightened the trottle cable.
The vibrations are much less and it idles at 750rpms...
But now my Climate Control Fan doesn't work. DOH!!!
-Mike.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clone2020)</div><div class='quotemain'>For those of you who have a cold air intake, do any of you have an AEM bypass valve? ...to prevent hydrolock?
-Mike.</div>
Yea Mike, I have one I picked up off ebay for $20. They're different sized depending on the outside diameter of your intake pipe. My CP Racing CAI is 2.75 inches. Fits like a champ.
Chip
actually...the 8g Galants DO have a very sophisticated computer in them (considering the price range of the galants...) and here is the reasons for the idle differences....
1. Altitude/O2 content in the air (Colorado at 8000 ft. and dry will be different than Death Valley @ sea level and humid)...
2. If you read in the Owners manual it says that when you start the car, it will idle higher (1400 - 1500 r's is normal) right off the bat and gradually slow down...and this is why...with Cast Iron blocks and Aluminum heads, the rates at which each heat and cool is dramatically different. the engineers know this and the computer is programmed to idle the car at what it feels is the right RPM's to warm the engine up at a rate that allows these two metals (and the gaskets between them) to expand at a uniform rate to reduce premature gasket failure/block stress/head stress...during this time the computer is going through its routin to get everything else in order...O2 sensors, exhaust sensors, air/fuel sensors...etc.
it is the best practice to start your car and let it run (withoug stepping on the gas) until the temp needle starts to move. once the needle gets to the bottom of the first hash, the car has done what it needs to do...after that, you are just wasting fuel...
...that said, it is never a good idea to start the car after 8 hours in 30 degree weather, drop it in drive and go blasting across town...it usually takes the duration of 1 good tune on the CD player to warm the car up...
...also, the galants learn your driving habits and adapt the tranny accordingly, and if you were the driving nazi all last week, then want to just go easy on it and chill, you might get what seem like hard up-shifts/down shifts because the car trained itself that you liked quicker/harder shifts....drive like a granny for a week, and it will adapt...
later
~v