How to Check and Change your tranny Fluid

Abridged from the SM

To check the fluid.
1. Warm up vehicle - and drive it around t. - If you want to be scientific, get the trany fluid to 158-176 deg F - And it may take a while to get there.

2. Park on a level surface

3. Move the gear selector thru all positions, and back to "N", and apply parking brake

3 1/2. Look around the Transaxle, under the vehicle for any leaks and to generally inspect the condition

4. Clean any dirt away from the dip stick area

5. Pull the dipstick, and smell the fluid. If it smells burnt - You should flush it - that means a trip to the dealer or someone with a flushing machine. If it’s real bad – you should probably have the trany serviced by a pro.

6. Observe the Color - if it is darker brown, or not pink, but doesn’t smell burnt - change it. If its clean and pink and smells like trany fluid, no need to change, unless you are over 60K miles and you haven't changed it yet

7. Wipe off the stick, and reinsert it, and pull it

8. Observe where the level is:

http://64.91.37.32/tr1.gif

9. If the level is low, add some fluid
DIAMOND ATF SP III, ATF SP II M or equivalent

10. Re-check level

11. When you get it where it needs to be, replace the dipstick tightly.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...efault/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...efault/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...efault/sad.gif

If you need to change it - and don’t have a flushing machine:

1. Turn off Car

2. Place a container under the car to catch the fluid (3.7 Quarts) (about 8 Quarts total – be prepared)

3. Disconnect this hose (goes from radiator or cooler to trany)
It's pictured Looking at the bottom of the radiator - Using this hose will flush the old fluid from the cooler core.
http://64.91.37.32/tr2.gif


4. Turn on car and place in "N" for MAX of 1 MINUTE, or until all fluid has drained. Then turn off.

5. Remove the drain plug on the bottom of the trans pan - 2.1 more quarts should come out

http://64.91.37.32/tr3.gif

6. install a new gasket (same as oil plug gasket) the smaller side goes towards the pan. You could reuse the gasket - but check for leaks if you do.- but best to replace it.

7 Reinstall the drain plug, and Tighten to 24 Ft-lb

8. Pour in up to 5.8 Quarts of new fluid and repeat step 4. - This will flush out any old fluid still in the trany. (3.7 more quarts should come out)

9.Pour in 3.7 more quarts of new fluid

10 Reconnect the hose disconnected in step 3

11. Run car for 2 minutes, then cycle the gears ending in "N" with parking brake applied

12.Check that the level on the dipstick is in the Cold zone.
13. Replace dipstick and check for leaks
14. Repeat the top of this post and check the hot level

15. You should be done.

You will have collected about 8 Quarts of old fluid
And you will have used about 10 Quarts of new fluid

some tips.

the nipple from the oil cooler. put like a hose or something on the end of that and route it to the drain pan. that or get two drain pans. on for the hose and one for that nipple. be careful, the nipple will spray the oil about 3-4 feet from the nipple itself. so make sure your pan is set at the right place. i used a big alluminum pan to catch the oil.

the older 8g's have an external filter. looks like an oil filter. get that changed while you're at it.

on my car, i couldn't fit a wrench acound the drain plug. it has a piece of metal to protect it going around it. make sure you have a socket for that drain plug before starting. i had to ride my bike to the hardware store to get the socket for the drain plug.

you add the fluid where the dipstick goes in. not stated in the tutorial.

the drain plug, at least mine is, is magnetic. all the metal shavings will stick to that. there shouldn't be alot, thats another thing to check.. also, don't forget to clean that off before reinstalling.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>i had to ride my bike to the hardware store to get the socket for the drain plug. Â*

you add the fluid where the dipstick goes in. not stated in the tutorial. Â*
</div>

LOL
Thanks for the added tips -but - I wanted to see someone try to put the fluid in the via drain plug https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

The service manual is basically full of s--t. Change your tranny fluid every 30K regardless - that sounds like the 99 service manual. I came dangerously close to messing up my tranny going off that advice. It seemed to go all at once and then I all of a sudden had pretty dark fluid.

my 2k1 service manual says that. the 99 manual should talk about the external tranny filter also. i did what the service manual says and things are going good for me and my car.

To each his own. I would consider it cheap insurance of sorts.

I just don't think they're doing anybody a service talking about every 60 for a part that takes so much abuse

I have looked all over, and I cant find the dipstick for the tranny....i must be freakin blind.....and is the drain plug the plug that is facing directly to ground....sorry for the stupid question, but i lost my service CD and I cant seem to find the dipstick or plug.....I am going to put in REDLINE ATF this week...has anyone else put this in???

its on the top of the tranny. its a white coloed stick. its to the right of the front valve cover and under the intake piping.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>its on the top of the tranny. its a white coloed stick. its to the right of the front valve cover and under the intake piping.</div>

Thanks Pinoy.....I found it....it was under my blower... :laughing:

Anyone have the original pics or working pic links for this tutorial?

Also, what is the plug and/or gasket size for the tranny plug?

is there anyway this can be updated cause i cant see the pics and i need to change the fluid thank you

click click

thank you thank you

now that link is down too...

for future reference, never use your personal website for anything useful. there is no guarantee it will be there next month, let alone years from now.
upload pictures to flickr or a reputable image host (imageshack, photobucket) and make sure they are in google cache for added protection.

I was able to pull that wesite from the internet archive:

http://web.archive.org/web/200601141...s/TrannyFlush/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outspoken

now that link is down too...

for future reference, never use your personal website for anything useful. there is no guarantee it will be there next month, let alone years from now.
upload pictures to flickr or a reputable image host (imageshack, photobucket) and make sure they are in google cache for added protection.

I was able to pull that wesite from the internet archive:

http://web.archive.org/web/200601141...s/TrannyFlush/

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i updated the link to my new webspace.

but yea, actually, the main reason i put up my tutorials is for my own benefit. iif im away from home, or on another computer, i can always pull up what I need from the net instead of driving home and getting it off my desktop. you can say my webspace is like my backup.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

i updated the link to my new webspace.

but yea, actually, the main reason i put up my tutorials is for my own benefit. iif im away from home, or on another computer, i can always pull up what I need from the net instead of driving home and getting it off my desktop. you can say my webspace is like my backup.

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true, i do that kind of stuff too, and gmail. ;)

thanks for posting this, very helpful. i've got 78k on my original tranny, havent flushed it yet so i'm going to buy a quart of Diamond ATF today and compare the smell of it to what's in my car. right now it looks light brown, no real signs of red/pink and can't tell for sure if it smells burnt but it doesn't pop out as being so. hope it's ok to post on this thread seeing as it is a howto.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outspoken

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

i updated the link to my new webspace.

but yea, actually, the main reason i put up my tutorials is for my own benefit. iif im away from home, or on another computer, i can always pull up what I need from the net instead of driving home and getting it off my desktop. you can say my webspace is like my backup.

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true, i do that kind of stuff too, and gmail. ;)

thanks for posting this, very helpful. i've got 78k on my original tranny, havent flushed it yet so i'm going to buy a quart of Diamond ATF today and compare the smell of it to what's in my car. right now it looks light brown, no real signs of red/pink and can't tell for sure if it smells burnt but it doesn't pop out as being so. hope it's ok to post on this thread seeing as it is a howto.

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ok it smells burnt, gotta make a trip to the dealer then. =/

OK after reading this post, I have never gotten my car seviced at the dealer. I have done just the normal oil changes every 3k miles. I am at 75k miles now. IF i bring my car to Mitsubishi for maintenance what would they do? I would like them to change the tranny fluid, what else should they do? And finally how much do you think that would run?

Tranny change, coolant change, timing belt, alternator belt, power steering belt, balance belt, tensioner, water pump. $800-1200 depends on the dealer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rez887

Tranny change, coolant change, timing belt, alternator belt, power steering belt, balance belt, tensioner, water pump. $800-1200 depends on the dealer.

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Getting the following done at the dealer this weekend:
2003 2.4L Galant $775 for: Timing Belt - Alt. Belt - Power Steering Belt - Tensioner - Balance Belt - Water Pump

Transmission Flush - $180, will be doing it either then or another day depending on how much cash i eat up this week.

are there any places other than dealership that sells mitsu tranny fluid for cheaper?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gladiator

are there any places other than dealership that sells mitsu tranny fluid for cheaper?

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I bought the mitsu fluid from a dealer in Waco for 7.15 and I bought for 6.00 from Don Herring Mitsu in Dallas.

you can try the equivalent of +3 atf....

something I'm still unclear about the amount of ATF needed.
how large is the capacity since the tutorial suggested to get 10 qts but it says to add 6 qts and flush again? does that mean flush out all 6 quarts of the new fluid

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gladiator

something I'm still unclear about the amount of ATF needed.
how large is the capacity since the tutorial suggested to get 10 qts but it says to add 6 qts and flush again? does that mean flush out all 6 quarts of the new fluid

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the point of flushing is to clear the lines. but you need to add more fluid to push the old fluid out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gladiator

something I'm still unclear about the amount of ATF needed.
how large is the capacity since the tutorial suggested to get 10 qts but it says to add 6 qts and flush again? does that mean flush out all 6 quarts of the new fluid

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the point of flushing is to clear the lines. but you need to add more fluid to push the old fluid out.

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how would I know the old fluid is out? how many quarts should be flushed out after filling the new fluid in the dipstick

I just bought 8 qts of ATF from Mitsubishi dealer this afternoon, and i am going to change it this weekend.
I get 8 qts cuz' the dealer guy says i only need 5-6 qts for drian and refill, but I took 9 qts in case of anything.
I could of bought the filter, but the dealer guy said it is $55 for the filter w/ a removing kit or something.


Ok, I've had my ATF changed, and turn out It need 10qts. So drive my car very carefully w/ low ATF to the deal to get two qts more. I felt hot air come out of the tranny side of the engine bay. I thought It was noraml breaks in w/ new ATF. It actuall feel really good running on low ATF,haha. My car accelerate better, w/ more solid power from the engine and quicker reaction on the wheels. MY ATF is now back to normal level. But the sporty feeling is gone :( Now, it accelerates like a boat, softly.
However, U don't want to risk it like me, so just take 10 qts.

quick question about tannys and changing the fluid

mine is like way over due, but i heard that on auto trannys if you get a flush, bands inside start breaking and your tranny can blow, is this true?

i need to know so i can change or flush mine

I changed my tranny oil last week. I used 9 1/2 qta ATF.
The mess part of the work is the the ATF cooler connector under the radiator.
oil comes out of both ends when flushing with engine idle. So I make a tool to catch oil from both ends. I took a water bottle , and cut off the top ( for better flow), so it becomes a cyclinder shape w/ one bottum. On the shell near the bottum I did two cuts on each opposite side of the shell, and stuck each end of the oi cooler connector into the cuts each on each side. So I didn't get oil poring all over my under engine bay

First thanks to this forum for helping. My Haynes manual shows the plug on the side of the tranny but when I looked there was nothing in the spot that it indicated so I looked here and found the plug on the bottom.

Well I guess I just wasted 6 quarts of tranny fluid. I changed my fluid but listened to a friend who works at Meineke (they charge $130 for flush and fill, WOW!!), he said there was no need to flush (put 3 quarts in and pump out the old through the cooler lines.), he said that was overkill. But when I just drained it, it only took a little less than 6 quarts and the book says that the tranny holds almost 10 so there's 4 quarts of the old dirty stuff mixed with the new now. Good news was that after 110k miles (I bought it @ 60k and have no idea if the previous owner changed the fluid or not.) there was very little metal dust on the magnet. I'll wait a little and do the change the right way later since it is such a simple procedure. It does shift smoother though. I'm wondering if even though the fluids are mixed could I just drain the cooler again and add 4 quarts? Any opinions?

I did some research on fluid and there are two non-Mitsu SPIII certified fluids that I found, Castrol and I think Mobil. I used the Castrol since I have trusted their fluids for over 30 years in all of my vehicles and it was only $5 a quart v.s $8.5 at Mitsu.

shadow83, which castrol atf did you use? tia!

The Import Multi-vehicle ATF. It is SP III certified.

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf

Anyone got a pic to the tut? I need to do a fluid change..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

the nipple from the oil cooler. put like a hose or something on the end of that and route it to the drain pan. that or get two drain pans. on for the hose and one for that nipple. be careful, the nipple will spray the oil about 3-4 feet from the nipple itself. so make sure your pan is set at the right place. i used a big alluminum pan to catch the oil.

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UGH I wish I'd read this prior to doing the fluid change this weekend. There was a good quart all over the floor the first time I turned the car on to let it pump the fluid out. For the second time I found a short piece of hose, probably 7" or so, and put it on the nipple as you suggest. I turned it down and zip-tied it to the other hose so they'd stay in one spot, and it worked perfectly. Both sides shot straight down.

Gee thanks, Haynes and Mitsubishi, for completely ignoring that point. Kind of like how you didn't mention coolant was going to go freaking everywhere when the water pump was removed. This car is messy.

Can someone re-up on pics