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thanks for the tip mikeyturbo97. i went to napa over the weekend and picked up a bag of 12 11/16" freeze plugs. they didn't have any brass :(, but steel will have to do. measured and confirmed, 11/16". if you guys want a pair PM me and i'll ship off a set to you
So are you guys using the 2g turbo waterpipe? On my car this pipe is too short and it will leak on one end or the other it seems. I even siliconed it and it seems ok but I still get a little whiff of antifreeze when I pop the hood so I dont think it is all the way tight still...
I used the waterpipe from a 7G GS
Meaning the 1994 dual cam car? I'm sorry I have this engine in an Eclipse so I have no idea about Galants lol.
I used the 2g water pipe but ovaled out the bolt hole to push it up further into the thermostat housing. I also had to use thick o-rings to make sure it sealed well. Looks to be holding fine but I've only got a bit over 100 miles on the engine.
I used a 1g pipe.
Mikey, did you use a 1g head too? I am using a 2g head so stuck with the 2g pipe. Not sure if you can mix the 1g/2g pipes since the thermostat housings are so different.
Yes sir, I used the 1G head with the 1g pipe. Do you have the 2g pipe?
Yup, 2g head, 2g pipe. Totally unrelated but I ran a compression test today and got 150 across the board. At 7600 ft. above sea level we've got ~25% less air so that translates to roughly 200 across the board. I'll take it ;)
Yeah I tried that as well...before it was leaking out of the thermostat side, now its leaking out of the waterpump side. But only when the car is cool. lol. So I siliconed it up and it lasted about 1000 miles before it started leaking again.Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
Where did you get the o-rings? I have a metric kit but they are all too thin.
^ just get a master gasket set.. Or you can go to a parts store and order it.. Just take the water pipe off and bring it.. Thats what I would do...
I ended up reusing the factory o-rings. They were in good shape and the ones that came with my kit were too thin and leaked even without the engine running. The factory ones are wide enough to fill the whole hollowed are where the ring goes. You might be best off just getting them from Mitsubishi.
Well I do have the mitsubishi o rings but they dont seal the pipe because it is 6mm too short so one side is always dripping a little bit after the car cools off. I think I need to find the '94 GS water pipe. Gonna call the dealer now, but I doubt they still can get it.
^Well Im retarded...I just found an empty box for the felpro orings so I must have used those lol.
Also now that I think about it more, the mounting points should be the same between the two blocks regardless of deck height, so this must be my issue.
Ill order the right ones from mitsu tomorrow..
Actually you do need to change things just a smidge if you're using a turbo pipe. The taller deck height moves the head up and tilts the coolant pipe along with it. On mine at least the bolt hole didn't line up properly and I had to oval the bottom side out quite a bit to get it in right. That was with the 2g combo though and the bolt hole for the pipe was on the block close to cylinder four.
ok correct me if i am wrong but on the 8g galant (4g64) the timing belt is on the passenger side were in the dsm dohc head (off the 4g63) the timing belt is on the drivers side in order for this to work the head would have to be flipped around thus putting the intake and exhust port on the opposite sides? how does this work? i know ppl have done the swap i am just curious?
We're doing this with 7g cars where everything is on the driver's side. I believe you need to use an Evo head if you're doing an 8g but I haven't looked into it.
that makes since i didnt know the 7g was a 4g64 i thought it was 4g63 but i guess that is what i get for being a noob lol. and yeah the head i would need would be the evo head you are right.i dont know anything about the 7g just the 8g.
Oh wow. For some reason I was thinking the thermostat housing was bolted to the block. Oops.Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
So I guess what I need to do is modify that mounting point. I opened up the hole a bit but I guess not enough.
Well I'm an old member that is never on this site but I just finished my swap like about a month ago. The car was my 97 Spyder gst. It had a busted head gasket so i decided to do the 64 swap since a friend was going to get rid of his 94 ls galant. I got the block for free and decided to just put the 2g head from the spyder and reuse as much parts as i can from the spyder. Only new thing i replaces was the connecting rod bearings and a new head gasket.
The water pipe I uses was off the 2g and yes, since the block is taller it made the head higher than where it was to allow the water pipe to bolt up on the block. Sadly i decided to just put everything back on and didn't bother putting that one bold on the block. So far it is not leaking and i've only driven the car for about 250miles. The water pipe did get a good amount of silicone upon installation.
If you cant find those brass plugs at your local parts store try going to a machine shop. I decided to check out my local mom and pop machine shop and ask if they had those plugs and they manage to carry them in this bin that had a bunch of loose plugs. The plugs has their sizes stamped so I just went through the bin and found what i needed and ended up only paying around one dollars.
Just wondering, what are you guys using on tuning these set ups? Im currently running the set up on my stock 97 ecu and my boost is only at the spring rate. Any plans on evoscan and use a speed density setup? I have jackal on my 1g and I love it. Kinda wish it was also adaptable on 2g's.