DIY 7G inner tie rod replacement / with PICX/

Ok, I did that while I was doing my 5 lug swap, so you dont have to remove the spindle or brakes.

TOOLS:

17mm rachet or wrench
universal plumbing tool
tie rod fork /optional/
2 x 22mm wrenches or adjustable wrenches
long screwdriver
hammer

Unbolt the lug nuts and remove the wheel - place it under the rocker panel./ use jack stands if you have them/. Use the 22mm wrenches to unbolt the locking nut of the outter tie rod / yellow/- just get it loose. It can be done later, but it was easier for me to do it at this stage. Remove the cotter pin from the outter tie rod and use the 17mm wrench to unbolt the nut.

This is how my tie rod looked like when I removed the wheel:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/oldassem.jpg

As you see there isnt much left off of the old boot, so I didnt play with the clamp, but pulled the rest of the boot that was attached to the steering rack with pair of pliers / came out easy/. But if your boot is still good this is how the clamp looks like so try to unhook it with a scredriver / on the right/

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...46/oldboot.jpghttp://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../bootclamp.jpg

Get the long screwdriver and hammer and tap the locking washer on the both sides / first photo red/. I didnt get new washers and reused the old ones, but to be done right I suggest getting new ones.
Get the plumming tool / available in Sears for $14.99/ and place it on the flattened spots on the inner tie rod. The head of the tool can rotate on 180 deg, so place in a way to be able to unscrew / counter clock wise /, and give it a try. I used a small diameter pipe to the handle for extra strenght, here are the photos:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...12346/tool.jpghttp://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...kinprocess.jpg

Use the tie rod fork or hammer to get the outter tie rod out of the spindle; If hammer is used hit through massive piece of wood. Tie rod is out. If outter rods are bad now is the time to replace them; I had to remove them because I put new boots in. I used hose clamps the knob, because it is really uncomfortable to stick a screwdriver in there; two cable ties to hold th extra clamp line.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../oldtierod.jpghttp://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...untnewboot.jpg

Complete tie rod assembly.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...odassembly.jpghttp://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../newtierod.jpg

It's time to put it back in. Place the washer /new one/ and hand screw it in /clock wise/. Pull the boot a little to access the flattened spots and put the tool on them. Tie it in and now is time for the hardest part - bending the washer back. It was impossible for me to get to one of the sides, so i did just one /oh well/. Place the outter tie rod in the spindle - install nut and cotter pin. Tie the locking nut, put wheel on and take it to the wheel allingment

Nice job. I had a heck of a time tightening the inner tie rod because I could not get a wrench to fit in the space and still have room to move it. Great suggestion to use the plumbing tool.
FYI: Closest Mits dealer is 5 hours away and I was unable to find new inner lock washers for the inner tie rods from any of the general auto parts houses. Folks should check to see if they are included with the new inner tie rod at time of purchase. Parts house wil be more helpful in finding them at the time you purchace the inner tie rods than if you come back later.

That was what I could come up with after looking for the right tool for months. It was the better alternative than buying $65 inner tie rod tool, or renting one when I have in mind that I didnt know when I could work on the car because of the cold weather especially when I dont have a garage.