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I just got a 92 Galant 2.0 SOHC A/T with 92000K and it goes into limp mode after reaching operating temp. Shifts fine when cold but then stays in 3rd after it 10 min or so.. Going to change the filter and fluid. Fluid doesn't smell burned but it looks like it's over filled. Could that cause this issue.
My truck used to do something similar when cold it was an 89 3.0 sohc A/T it was due to there being not enough tranny fluid in there. The fluid in your car can still be very dirty and causing the issue especially if not changed ever. Remember is 17 years old.
Thank you for the reply, I changed out the fluid and filter and now it will start working fine for a awhile then go back to limp mode. I'm wondering if it's electrical (TCU /ECU) and not a mechanical issue. I'll keep posting updates.
Well, After changing out the fluid and filter and driving it for a couple of days the problem seems to have gone away. The tranny shifts smooth and OD works. I had a mechanic friend (who advised me to change the fluid and filter first) hook it up to and check for codes and there were none from the TCU/ECU. Other than a worn lower control arm bushing my 92 with 92K so far runs fine.
My friend suggested that I do another fluid/filter change when I change the oil in 3K to help remove any old fluid that was left in the torque converter. A little TLC and some routine scheduled maintenance and I hope to keep it on the road for a while. I did notice that the pan took a hit from something as it was dented in and the paint inside had flaked off. I wonder if that got caught in the filter or further up.
Did you checked the TCU with a analog voltmeter? Count the needle sweeps etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by lcubed61
No I didn't, but I did see a post on how to do that and I have a voltmeter. Thank you for the idea I'll do that this weekend. I'll search for the post again.
better then having a limp dick,
do you have any check engine lights on ? or have u and erased them before?
Your right about that! No check engine lights at all. I'm not getting a high temp reading on the dash but I'm going to clean and flush the cooling system as anyway. do you think cooling be an issue if the problem comes and goes?
If your paint inside the pan is starting to flake off and there is still some loose pieces next change I would take some 120 grit sand paper and sand it down then go through grits to about 800 to make it smooth and repaint with a heat resistant paint that won't corrode in the fluids. If it did get better after the fluid change with a few days of driving you could have some sludge building in there so I would also recommend another fluid change during next oil change and maybe even one after that if this one is still pretty dirtyQuote:
Originally Posted by lcubed61