mods and the the help i need from you

so ive been doing my research for a few months ive owned my 95 G since 1998 bought it with orginally 40k on it. had problems with the tranny and a few yaers later it ends up garaged for 2 years. 6 years ago i beefed up motor blah blah. dad hosed my engine up so its set for another 4 its always been garaged has no rust. ill try to get pictures up soon. so ive got a few issues.

1. i want to push 4-500hp on the dyno when im done. ive helped a buddy build his eclipse and pulled my motor and rebuilt it so i know and understand mitsubishi's more importantly the G's.

2. I'm wanting to run my 2.4 none of this 2.0 madness i hear about. So my understanding is that the 4g63 and 4g64 is the same block with different stokes? Mods im after..

3. Manual tranny swap got the tranny just have ot go pick it up $150 for a 50k mileage tranny, i want to push 400-500 horse and be reliable. I want to do this for a reasonable amount.

4. From what i can tell wiesco pistons and rings running 9;1 cr?

5. gonna do the dohc swap while rebuilding. heres my questions. should i rebuild the head with all high performance shat ? gonna do a port and polish regardless prolly myself. valve seats and such will go to the machine shop.

6. can i use the same crank or do i need to upgrade ?

7. more or less im just wanting to use good quality pistons/rings/bearings/rods and all parts to be reliable and a semi daily driver when weather permits.

8. ive seen all the guides for wiring and repinning for the dohc swap and all the mods. I would also like the best ecu to use wether its a custom setup or a swap out of a 2g or w/e. what all should i upgrade to handle this type of beef? Im having a hard time finding many aftermarket parts.

9. Im in the market for a tubro/suspension/possibly engine internals if they are new.

10. also want to do rear disc swap. ive put all new ball joints on and wheel bearing are next.

11. is there much benefit from doing the 5 lug swap?

12. im assuming i need new axles as well off a 2g turbo or something to the effect to handle the torque/hp. cant find any aftermarkets.

13. so i guess im after opinions and experience of whats the best internals to handle the upgrade of power as well as ecu/management system to handle everything.

14. what should i upgrade on the head as well. best head gaskets for the power and boost ill be running. im sure ill have ot run 20-22 pounds to get that power out of the setup. i definately wanna swap cams on the head to possibly stage 2's.


thanks for opinions and info in advance. ive read a lot but i would definately like to hear from people who have done it or have knowledge on it. ill be doing all the work myself but just curious as to the best internals. with the 70 charger (sold, which makes me sad)its easy, buy good quality 440 parts and install them. nuff said. harder to do with the 4g64. thanks guys.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...-s-turbo-build

was looking for more specific parts names as best to use type thing.

i like the 2.4 better as well. weakness will be rods at that power level if you stay stock rods. i would go forged bottom if i were you stock crank is fine with some acl or sealed power bearings. as for the head you will want at least 272 cams. the rest of the parts up there are fine to flow to over 400 hp. i would not port and polish yourself unless you are very careful as at the shop we use a flow bench to make sure we have opened flow and they all flow the same, and if you polish the chamber youre gonna want a valve job as well. if i were you take the head to the shop and have it inspected, if it all checks out do new valve seals and have the head surfaced for a good budget setup. i would recommend a valve job not a fancy 5 angle just a normal 3 angle is fine but if the shop says its ok then rol with it and just drop in some FP2s, hks or the like. as for turbo something above a 20g is all you need like an fp green or red, precision has some good options as well.

my head is a 2g head with ferrea valves and guides, fp beehive valve springs, Comp 101300 cams(FP3s) no porting or polishing. im running a stock block as this is mainly just a test motor for later on with ARP main studs and ARP head studs and ACL bearing

Ok I had to fix your post, because it was a little messy and I also thank you for posting all of your questions in one thread instead of multiple threads. I separated and numbered your questions so its easier to answer.

1. 400-500 whp is an easy target when you have 20-25psi on a 50 trim turbo plus supporting mods. Its all in the tune and how good your tuner is.

2. 64 and 63 are not the same block, but they are similar. 64 has 6mm taller deck, 12mm more stroke, 1.5mm larger bore and it is usually meant for a SOHC head which brings a few minor differences.

3. Stock GST trans is a bit beefier than lets say stock 7g trans, but it all depends on your driving habits. You can break the trans with all stock motor, or you can push 400-500 on stock trans and still run. It is recommended to have LSD when you put down alot of horse power. I rebuilt my motor about 2 years ago and for that time the car had had a total of 2 days downtime, so yes it can be reliable.

4. Yes, Wiseco pistons do have 9.0:1 CR with 47cc DOHC head. Some recommend Manley or Ross pistons, because there seem to be cracks appearing on the Wiseco pistons. Some argue that the cracks are due to improper installation/clearances or improper engine heat up after a cold start (lots of boost soon after cold start). I cant tell you much here, because I havent taken my engine apart to inspect my Wisecos after the rebuild.

5. DIY port and polish is ok to do. Yes, you need at least bring your valvetrain to stock performance. By that I mean that the head you will be possibly using is somewhere between 14 and 20 years old, so things there are not as they used to be. Get a set of new valves, lap the valves, inspect the valve seats and guides - if there are problems have a machine shop replace whats necessary. A very good upgrade is the Brian Crower single valve springs (cheap too), these can handle big cams too. When it comes to cams - you can reach your goals with stock 252/252 cams, or 264/264 or 272/272 duration cams. Anything above 264/264 will not pass emissions (if you have them in your state), so keep that in mind when you buy cams. I've read on DSM sites very good things about GSC cams, so keep that in mind as well. A set of non ticking lifters is mandatory and if the rockers are worn out then you'll need a set of OEM ones.

6. Your stock crank can handle your goal, but i'd recommend 8g crank. The casting is much newer, the alloys are much stronger and some say these are forged, but i cant confirm that.

7. You gotta pay to play.

8. Best bang for the buck is either 98/99 Eclipse flashable ECU or Evo8 ECU. These both require Tatrix 2.0 open port cable and repining the main harness plus adding pins.

9. Turbo - you need 50 trim turbo period. If we talk Mitsubishi then you need 20g, if we talk other brands then you name it FP, Precision, Garrett etc... The Holset's HX-35 and HX-40 mated to BEP housing, which makes it a bolt on to the OEM turbo manifold, have been very popular for some time now. But if you ever think that you might wanna push more HP then I strongly suggest that you start with T3 flanged manifold and find a matching turbo.

Suspension - First you want to do is Prothane suspension kit (meant for 2g), Upgrade the rear sway bar ( your car doesnt have one), and then focus on shocks and springs. Your options here are limited - you either go with shock and lowering spring or coilovers.

Engine internals - I pretty much answered this above, but Ill go in detail a bit more here. You want to stay at 9.0:1 CR when choosing pistons - it seems that its the magical number when it comes to street/strip use. All 7g have one-piece, solid main bearings, so when you buy you make sure its for 7bolt 93-97 Eclipse. Stock 2g rods are the same as 7g rods, and same as 8g rods, so dont waste your time there. Eagle makes 7 bolt rods for a pretty good price. You'll need stock 94 Galant GS (DOHC) head gasket from the dealer, yes it has to be DOHC gasket - SOHC wont work. Its proven to hold 30-35psi pf boost. If you want something fancy then you go Cometic Eclipse gasket with 86.5 or 87.0mm bore, but then you have to resurface your block and head. ARP head studs are a must. OEM oil pump with balance shaft delete or racing balance shaft and OEM water pump. OEM, Gates Racing, HKS timing belts off Eclipse work too - dont waste you time with autoparts store timing belts as they break easily. You will also need 94 Galant GS DOHC timing gears or 2g Eclipse timing gears offset 1/2 tooth.

10. Rear Disc swap is necessary, but dont forget to switch the proportioning valve with one off a car with that had rear disc brakes from factory. It also matters if you have ABS or not, as you cant mismatch a non-ABS prop valve in ABS car and visa versa.

11. With 5 lugs you'll have a larger choice of rims, more brake upgrade options. But let me tell you right now - if you ever think you will want to have Evo brakes on your car, then do the 5 lug swap and either get Evo rims or any other rim that has +35mm offset and its at least 17 inch big.

12. There are aftermarket axles made for 2g GST, but they are in the $700 -800 range. Your stock axles are just fine.

13. You gotta pay to play!

14. Answered that in #9.

first of all thank you for fixing my post it did look like a mess i should of broke it up.

1. 2000
Crankshaft
Mitsubishi Galant used. or should i try to get a new one ?

i cant find a gst tranny anywhre around here. ive got a brand new auto tranny from the dealer and after it set for a few years with brand new fluid in it. it now shifts improperly figures. stock autos from mitsubishi are poo. well they were back then.

im assuming for the brakes ill have to hit hte dealer. if anyone has any parts lying around shoot me some prices and such i talked to someone a month or two ago about struts and springs they had for lowering. but i was starting to think i should buy new ? he offered the springs and struts for like $125 for all 4 wheels. no idea how used they are.

i can get a 7g manual trannny wiht like 50-60k on it. i suppose i could have it rebuilt but id rather wait. the car is still flawless paint and body wise needs a touch of work. theres a few minor finger nail sized dints but not noticeable at all. somehow the bottom corner of my door got bent a touch looks like someone opened it and banged the corer on something. i have a buddy who will fix all hte imperfections and put a new paint job on it for like 1000-1100 so that will be the last thing i do same color though. its that maroon color with some ugly gray trim. thanks for all the info extremely helpful mko. i appreciate it greatly. guess ill reconsider wiesco used to use them in everything i rebuilt. im gonna have my block magnafluxed and baked. machine shop i use is great. they do put the heads on a flow bench but its expensive as shat for them to run them. im weighing options here. Id like to get the motor and tranny done for under $6K spread out over this winter.