INFO: 1999 Mitsubishi Galant w/2.4L engine (4G64)
1999 GALANT 4G64 (2.4,S4,MPI) F4A42 (4A/T-FWD)
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00 - GENERAL
ENGINE OIL FILTER (Replace)
The quality of replacement filters varies considerably. Only high quality filters should be used to assure most efficient service.
Genuine oil filters require that the filter is capable of withstanding a pressure of 1,765 kPa (256 psi) are high quality filters and are recommended as follows:
Oil Filter Part Number:
Mitsubishi Genuine Parts:
<2.4L Engine> MD135737 or equivalent
<3.0L Engine> MD352626 or equivalent
ENGINE OIL FILTER SELECTION
This vehicle is equipped with a full-flow, throw-away oil filter.
The same type of filter is recommended as a replacement filter for this vehicle. It is possible, particularly in cold weather, that this vehicle may develop high oil pressure for a short duration. Make sure that any replacement filter used on this vehicle is a high-quality filter. The filter can withstand a pressure of 1,765 kPa (256 psi) [manufacturer's specifications] to avoid the filter and engine damage. The following is a high-quality filter and is strongly recommended for use on this vehicle: Mitsubishi Engine Oil Filter Part number MD135737 or MD352626.
Any replacement oil filter should be installed in accordance with the oil filter manufacturer's installation instructions.
(1)Remove the engine oil filter by using the filter wrench.
(2)Clean the oil filter mounting surface of the oil filter bracket side.
(3)Coat engine oil to the O-ring of new oil filter.
(4)Screw on the oil filter by hand until it touches the surface of the flange and then tighten it with the oil filter wrench: etc.
<2.4L Engine>
For MD135737: Approximately one turn or 14 N·m (124 in-lb)
<3.0L Engine>
For MD352626: Approximately 3/4 turn or 14 N·m (124 in-lb)
(5)Add new engine oil through the oil filter.
(6)Start and run engine and check for engine oil leaks.
(7)After stopping the engine, check the oil level and replenish as necessary.
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00 - GENERAL
SPARK PLUGS (Replace)
Platinum plugs are used on 3.0L engine.
Use care not to damage the platinum tips of the platinum plugs.
Don't adjust the gap either.
(1) Spark plugs must spark properly to assure proper engine performance and reduce exhaust emission level.
Therefore, they should be replaced periodically with new ones.
Spark plug type
MAKER 2.4L ENGINE 3.0L ENGINE
NGK BKR5E-11 PFR6G-11
DENSO K16PR-U11 PK20PR11
CHAMPION RC10YC4 RC8PYP4
(2)The new plugs should be checked for the proper gap.
Spark plug gap: 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 inch)
(3)Install the spark plugs and tighten to 25 N·m (18 ft-lb)
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00 - GENERAL
ENGINE COOLANT (Change)
Check the cooling system parts such as the radiator, heater and oil cooler hoses, thermostat and the connections for leakage and damage.
CHANGING COOLANT
(1)Set the temperature control knob to the "HOT" position.
(2)Let the engine operate until the engine coolant warms, and then stop the engine.
When removing the radiator cap, use care to avoid contact with hot coolant or steam. Place a shop towel over the cap and turn the cap counterclockwise a little to let the pressure escape through the vinyl tube. After relieving the steam pressure, remove the cap by slowly turning it counterclockwise.
(3)Remove the radiator cap, radiator drain plug and engine drain plug to drain the coolant.
(4)Remove the reserve tank and drain the coolant.
(5)After completely draining the coolant, reinstall the drain plugs and flush the engine and radiator using a radiator cleaning fluid.
(6)After the flushing is completed, completely drain the cleaning fluid and install the radiator and engine drain plugs.
(7)By referring to the section on coolant, select an appropriate concentration for safe operating temperature within the range of 30 to 60%. Refill the coolant at the selected concentration. A convenient mixture is a 50% water and 50% antifreeze solution [freezing point: -31°C (-32.8°F)].
Recommended antifreeze:
MITSUBISHI Genuine Coolant or equivalent
Quantity:
<2.4L Engine> 7.0 dm3 (7.4 quarts)
<3.0L Engine> 8.0 dm3 (8.5 quarts)
Do not use alcohol or methanol anti-freeze or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol anti-freeze. The use of an improper anti-freeze can cause the corrosion of the aluminum conponents.
(8)Reinstall the radiator cap.
(9)Start the engine and let it warm up until the thermostat opens.
(10)After repeatedly racing the engine up to 3,000 r/min several times, stop the engine.
(11)Remove the radiator cap after the engine has become cold, and pour in coolant up to the entrance for water supplying.
Do not overfill the reserve tank.
(11)Add coolant to the reserve tank between the "FULL" and "LOW" mark if necessary.
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00 - GENERAL
DISC BRAKE PADS (Inspect for wear)
Check for fluid contamination and wear. Replace the complete set of pads if defective.
Thickness of lining (A)
Minimum limit: 2.0 mm (0.08 inch)
The pads for the right and left wheels should be replaced at the same time. Never split or intermix brake pad sets. All four pads must be replaced as a complete set.
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00 - GENERAL
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
Check fluid level
(1)Drive the vehicle until the fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature [70 - 80°C (158 - 176°F)]
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with scan tool MB991502.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 - 80 °C (158 - 194 °F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left diagram.
(2)Park the vehicle on a level surface.
(3)Move the selector lever through all positions to fill the torque converter and the hydraulic circuits with fluid, and then move the selector lever to the "N" position.
(4)After wiping off any dirt around the dipstick, remove the dipstick and check the condition of the fluid.
NOTE: If the fluid smells as if it is burnt, it means that the fluid has been contaminated by fine particles from the bushings and friction materials, a transaxle overhaul and the cooler line flushing may be necessary.
(5)Check that the fluid level is at the "HOT" mark on the dipstick. If the fluid level is lower than this, pour in more DIAMOND ATF SP-II or ATF SP-II M or equivalent until the level reaches the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: If the fluid level is too low, the oil pump will draw in air along with the fluid, which will cause bubbles to form. This will in turn cause the hydraulic pressure to drop, which will result in late shifting and slipping of the clutches and brakes.
If the fluid level is too high, the gear makes bubbles in ATF. Same phenomena will occur when the ATF volume is little. In either case, air bubbles can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and brake operation. Foaming can cause fluid to escape from the transmission vent, in which case it may be mistaken for a leak.
(6)Securely insert the dipstick.
NOTE: The fluid and oil filter should always be replaced when:
•When trouble shooting the transaxle
•When overhauling the transaxle
•When the oil is noticeably dirty or burnt (vehicle was driven under severe conditions)
Further more, the oil filters are special filters which are only to be used for the automatic transaxle.
Change fluid
If you have a fluid changer, use this changer to replace the fluid. If you do not have a fluid changer, replace the fluid by the following procedure.
(1)Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the radiator).
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is started. If the fluid has all drained out before then, the engine should be stopped at that point. Discharge volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
(2)Start the engine and let the fluid drain out.
Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling
(3)Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case to drain fluid.
Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
(4)Replace the oil filters.
(5)Install the drain plug via the new gasket, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 N·m (24 ft-lb)
(6)Pour new fluid in through the oil filler tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts)
Stop pouring if the full volume of fluid cannot be poured in.
(7)Repeat the procedure in step 2.
NOTE: Drain the fluid from the cooler hose 7.0 dm3 (7.4 quarts) at least (in both steps 2 and 7). Then drain the fluid a little and check the fluid for dirt. If it has been contaminated, repeat the steps 6 and 7.
(8)Pour new fluid in through the oil filler tube. Adding volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
(9)Reconnect the hose which was disconnect in step 1 above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
(10)Start the engine and run it at idle for 1 - 2 minutes.
(11)Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move it to the "N" position.
(12)Check the fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more fluid.
(13)Drive the vehicle until the fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature [70 - 80 °C (158 - 176 °F)], and then check the fluid level again. If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 - 80 °C (158 - 176 °F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the diagram at left. The fluid level must be at the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with scan tool MB991502. The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT" level should be regarded as the standard level.
(14)Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.
Change fluid filter
Any replacement fluid filter should be installed in accordance with the fluid filter manufacturer's installation instructions.
(1)Remove the fluid filter by using special tool MB991610.
(2)Clean the fluid filter mounting surface of the transaxle case side.
(3)Coat A/T fluid to the O-ring of new fluid filter.
Fluid Filter Part Number:
MITSUBISHI Genuine Part: MD752072
(4)Screw in the fluid filter by hand, and after the O-ring contacts the flange surface, tighten it with special tool MB991610.
Approximately 3/4 turn or 12 N·m (106 in-lb)
(5)Start and run engine and check for A/T fluid leaks.
(6)After stopping the engine, check for A/T fluid level and refill as necessary.
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11A - ENGINE MECHANICAL <4G64>
LASH ADJUSTER CHECK
If an abnormal noise (chattering noise) suspected to be caused by malfunction of the lash adjuster is produced immediately after starting the engine and does not disappear, perform the following check.
NOTE: An abnormal noise due to malfunction of the lash adjuster is produced immediately after starting the engine and changes with the engine speed, irrespective of the engine load.
If, the abnormal noise is not produced immediately after starting the engine or does not change with the engine speed, or it changes with the engine load, the lash adjuster is not the cause for the abnormal noise.
NOTE: When the lash adjuster is malfunctioning, the abnormal noise is rarely eliminated by continuing the warming-up of the engine at idle speed.
However, the abnormal noise may disappear only when seizure is caused by oil sludge in the engine whose oil is not maintained properly.
1.Start the engine.
2.Check if the abnormal noise produced immediately after starting the engine, changes with the change in the engine speed.
If the abnormal noise is not produced immediately after starting the engine or it does not change with the engine speed, the lash adjuster is not the cause for the noise. Therefore, investigate other causes. The abnormal noise is probably caused by some other parts than the engine proper if it does not change with the engine speed. (In this case, the lash adjuster is in good condition.)
3.With the engine idling, change the engine load (shift from N to D range, for example) to make sure that there is no change in the level of abnormal noise.
If there is a change in the level of abnormal noise, suspect a tapping noise due to worn crankshaft bearing or connecting rod bearing. (In this case, the lash adjuster is in good condition.)
4.After completion of warm-up, run the engine at idle to check for abnormal noise.
If the noise is reduced or disappears, clean the lash adjuster (Refer to GROUP 11B, Rocker Arms and Camshaft Inspection.) As it is suspected that the noise is due to seizure of the lash adjuster. If there is no change in the level of the abnormal noise, proceed to step 5.
5.Run the engine to bleed the lash adjuster system.
(Refer to .)
6.If the abnormal noise does not disappear after air bleeding operation, clean the lash adjuster (Refer to GROUP 11B, Rocker Arms and Camshaft Inspection.)
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12 - ENGINE LUBRICATION
ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT
1.Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the temperature of the coolant reaches 80°C (176°F) to 90°C (194°F).
2.Remove the engine oil filler cap.
Use care as oil could be hot.
3.Remove the drain plug to drain oil.
4.Install a new drain plug gasket so that it faces in the direction shown in the illustration, and then tighten the drain plug to the specified torque.
NOTE: Install the drain plug gasket so it faces in the direction shown in the illustration.
Tightening torque: 39 N·m (29 ft-lb)
5.Refill the new specified quantity of oil.
Specified Engine Oil:
Engine oil displaying ILSAC certification mark ("Starburst" symbol) or conforming to the API classification SJ EC or SJ/CD EC
Total quantity (Includes volume inside oil filter):
4.3 dm3 (4.5 qt)
6.Install the engine oil filler cap.
7.Check oil level.
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13A - MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM(MFI) <4G64>
THROTTLE BODY (THROTTLE VALVE AREA) CLEANING
1.Start the engine and warm it up until the coolant is heated to 80°C (176°F) or higher. Then stop the engine.
2.Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body.
Do not allow cleaning solvent to enter the bypass passage.
3.Plug the bypass passage inlet (arrow) of the throttle body.
4.Spray cleaning solvent into the valve through the throttle body intake port and leave it for approximately five minutes.
5.Start the engine, rev it several times and then idle it for about one minute. If the idling speed becomes unstable (or if the engine stalls) due to the bypass passage being plugged, slightly open the throttle valve to keep the engine running.
6.If the throttle valve deposits are not removed, repeat steps 4 and 5.
7.Unplug the bypass passage inlet.
8.Attach the air intake hose.
9.Use the scan tool to erase any diagnostic trouble code.
10.Adjust the basic idle speed. (Refer to .)
NOTE: If the engine hunts while idling after adjustment of the basic idle speed, disconnect the negative cable from the battery for 10 seconds or more, and then reconnect it and run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes after the engine is warmed up.
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13A - MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM(MFI) <4G64>
BASIC IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
Required Special Tool:
MB991502: Scan Tool (MUT-II)
NOTE: The standard idle speed has been adjusted with the speed adjusting screw (SAS), by the manufacturer, and there should be no need for readjustment.
NOTE: If the adjustment has been changed by mistake, the idle speed may become too high or the idle speed may drop too low when loads A/C, defogger, etc. are placed on the engine. If this occurs, adjust by the following procedure.
NOTE: The adjustment, if made, should be made after first confirming that the spark plugs, the injectors, the idle air control motor, compression, etc., are all normal.
1.The vehicle should be prepared as follows before the inspection and adjustment.
•Engine coolant temperature: 80 - 95°C (176 - 203°F)
•Lights, electric cooling fan and accessories: OFF
•Transaxle: Neutral (A/T for "P" range)
To prevent damage to scan tool MB991502, always turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position before connecting or disconnecting scan tool MB991502.
2.Connect scan tool MB991502 to the data link connector (16-pin).
NOTE: When scan tool MB991502 is connected, the diagnostic test mode control terminal should be grounded.
3.Start the engine and run at idle.
4.Select the item number 30 of the scan tool Actuator test.
NOTE: Use the scan tool to hold the IAC motor at the basic step to adjust the basic idle speed.
5.Check the idle speed.
Standard value: 700 ± 50 r/min
NOTE: The engine speed may be 20 to 100 r/min lower than indicated above for a new vehicle [driven approximately 500 km (300 mile) or less], but no adjustment is necessary.
NOTE: If the engine stalls or the engine speed is low even though the vehicle has been driven approximately 500 km (300 mile) or more, it is probable that deposits are adhered to the throttle valve, so clean it. (Refer to .)
6.If not within the standard value range, turn the speed adjusting screw (SAS) to make the necessary adjustment.
7.Press the scan tool clear key, and release the IAC motor Actuator test mode.
8.Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.
NOTE: Unless the IAC motor is released, the Actuator test mode will continue for 27 minutes.
9.Disconnect scan tool MB991502.
10.Start the engine again and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Check that the idling condition is normal.
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13A - MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM(MFI) <4G64>
INJECTOR CHECK
Measurement of Resistance between Terminals
1.Remove the injector connector.
2.Measure resistance between terminals.
Standard value: 13 - 16 Ω [at 20°C (68°F)]
If not within specification, replace the injector.
3.Install the injector connector
Checking operation sound
Using a stethoscope or long blade screwdriver, check the operation sound ("tick-tick-tick") of injectors during idling or during cranking.
Check that as the engine speed increases, the frequency of the operating sound also increases.
1.If the injector you are checking is not operating, you may hear the operating sound of the other injectors.
2.If no operating sound is heard from the injector that is being checked, check the injector drive circuit. If there is nothing wrong with the circuit, a defective injector or engine control module <M/T> or powertrain control module <A/T> is suspected.
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16 - ENGINE ELECTRICAL
SPARK PLUG CHECK AND CLEANING <2.4L Engine>
1.Check that the plug is not burned, that the insulator plug is not damaged, and that the seizure state is good.
2.If cleaning is required due to carbon deposits, etc., clean using a plug cleaner or wire brush, etc.
3.Check the plug gap using a plug gap gauge, and adjust if not within the standard value.
Standard value: 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 inch)
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16 - ENGINE ELECTRICAL
SPARK PLUG CABLE TEST
Wear rubber gloves while performing this test.
1.Disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while the engine is idling to check whether the engine's running performance changes or not.
2.If the engine performance does not change, check the resistance of the spark plug cable, and check the spark plug itself.
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16 - ENGINE ELECTRICAL <4G64>
IGNITION COIL (WITH BUILT-IN IGNITION POWER TRANSISTOR) CHECK <2.4L ENGINE>
Check by the following procedure, and replace the coil if there is a malfunction.
SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE CHECK
Measure the resistance between the high-voltage terminals of the ignition coil.
Standard value: 15.3 - 20.7 kΩ
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23A - AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
A/T FLUID CHECK
(1)Drive the vehicle until the fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature [70 - 80°C (158 - 176°F)].
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with MUT-II.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 - 80 °C (158 - 176 °F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left diagram.
(2)Park the vehicle on a level surface.
(3)Move the selector lever through all positions to fill the torque converter and the hydraulic circuits with fluid, and then move the selector lever to the "N" position.
(4)After wiping off any dirt around the dipstick, remove the dipstick and check the condition of the A/T fluid.
NOTE: If the A/T fluid smells as if it is burnt, it means that the A/T fluid has been contaminated by fine particles from the bushings and friction materials, a transaxle overhaul and flashing the cooler line flushing may be necessary.
(5)Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "HOT" mark on the dipstick. If the A/T fluid level is lower than this, pour in more DIAMOND ATF SP III or equivalent until the level reaches the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: If the A/T fluid level is too low, the oil pump will draw in air along with the A/T fluid, which will cause bubbles to form. This will in turn cause the hydraulic pressure to drop, which will result in late shifting and slipping of the clutches and brakes.
In either case, air bubbles can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and brake operation. Foaming can cause A/T fluid to escape from the transaxle vent, in which case it may be mistake for a leak.
(6)Securely insert the dipstick.
NOTE: The A/T fluid and filter should always be replaced in the following conditions:
•When trouble shooting the transaxle
•When overhauling the transaxle
•When the A/T fluid is noticeably dirty or burnt (driving under severe conditions)
Further more, the oil filters are special filters which are only to be used for the transaxle.
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23A - AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
A/T FLUID REPLACEMENT
If you have a A/T fluid changer, replace the A/T fluid by the following procedure.
(1)Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the discharge.
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is started. If the A/T fluid has all drained out before then, the engine should be stopped at that point.
Discharge volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
(2)Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out.
Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling
(3)Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case to drain the A/T fluid.
Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
(4)Replace the oil filter. (Refer to .)
(5)Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 Nm (24 ft-lb)
Stop pouring if the full volume of A/T fluid cannot be poured in.
(6)Pour new A/T fluid in through the oil filter tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts)
(7)Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the contaminated A/T fluid)
(8)Pour the new A/T fluid in through the oil filler tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
NOTE: Check the A/T fluid for contamination or burnt smell. If A/T fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 7 and 8 before proceeding to Step 8.
(9)Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1 above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
(10)Start the engine and run it at idle for 1 - 2 minutes.
(11)Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move it to the "N" position.
(12)Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more A/T fluid.
(13)Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature [70 - 80°C (158 - 176°F)], and then check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level must be at the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with MUT-II.
NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT" level should be regarded as the standard level.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 - 80 °C (158 - 176 °F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left diagram.
(14)When A/T fluid is under the specified level, pour in more A/T fluid.
When A/T fluid is under the specified level, drain the excessive A/T fluid from the drain plug to adjust A/T fluid level to the specified level.
(15)Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.
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23A - AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
TORQUE CONVERTER STALL TEST
This test measures the maximum engine speed when the selector lever is at the "D" or "R" position and the torque converter stalls this test the operation of the torque converter, starter motor and one-way clutch operation and the holding performance of the clutches and brakes in the transaxle.
Do not let anybody stand in front of or behind the vehicle while this test is being carried out.
1.Check the A/T fluid level and temperature. Check the engine coolant temperature.
•A/T fluid level: At the "HOT" mark on the dipstick
•A/T fluid temperature: 70 - 90°C (158 - 194°F)
•Engine coolant temperature: 80 - 100°C
(176 - 212°F)
2.Chock both rear wheels.
3.Connect a tachometer.
4.Apply the parking and service brakes fully.
5.Start the engine.
•The throttle should not be left fully open for any more than eight seconds.
•If carrying out the stall test two or more times, move the selector lever to the "N" position and run the engine at 1,000 r/min to let the A/T fluid cool down before carrying out subsequent tests.
6.Move the selector lever to the "D" position. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and read the maximum engine speed.
Standard value:
Stall speed: 2,100 - 2,600 r/min
7.Move the selector lever to the "R" position and repeat step 6.
Standard value:
Stall speed: 2,100 - 2,600 r/min
TORQUE CONVERTER STALL TEST JUDGEMENT RESULTS
1.Stall speed is too high in both "D" and "R" ranges
•Low line pressure
•Low-reverse brake slippage and malfunction of one-way clutch
2.Stall speed is too high in "D" range only
•Underdrive clutch slippage
3.Stall speed is too high in "R" range only
•Reverse clutch slippage
4.Stall speed too low in both "D" and "R" ranges
•Malfunction of torque converter
•Insufficient engine output
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31 -WHEEL AND TIRE
INSTALLATION SERVICE POINT
Tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 88 - 108 N·m (66 - 81 ft-lb)
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35A - BASIC BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDING
Use only brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4. Never mix the specified brake fluid with other fluid as it will influence the braking performance significantly.
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING
The master cylinder used has no check valve, so if bleeding is carried out by the following procedure, bleeding of air from the brake pipeline will become easier. (When brake fluid is not contained in the master cylinder.)
(1)Fill the reserve tank with brake fluid.
(2)Keep the brake pedal depressed.
(3)Have another person cover the master cylinder outlet with a finger.
(4)With the outlet still closed, release the brake pedal.
(5)Repeat steps (2)-(4) three or four times to fill the inside of the master cylinder with brake fluid.
BRAKE LINE BLEEDING
For vehicles equipped with ABS, be sure to filter/strain the brake fluid being added to the master cylinder reservoir tank. Debris may damage the hydraulic unit.
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55 - HEATER,AIR CONDITIONING AND VENTILATION
CHARGING
Use the refrigerant recovery station to charge the refrigerant.
METHOD BY USING REFRIGERANT RECOVERY AND
RECYCLING UNIT
Using the refrigerant recovery and recycling unit, refill the refrigerant.
NOTE: Refer to that Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling Unit Instruction Manual for operation of the unit.
DISCHARGING SYSTEM
Use the refrigerant recovery unit to discharge refrigerant gas from the system.
NOTE: Refer to that Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling Unit Instruction Manual for operation of the unit.
REFILLING OF OIL IN THE A/C SYSTEM
Too little oil will provide inadequate compressor lubrication and cause a compressor failure. Too much oil will increase discharge air temperature.
When a compressor is installed at the factory, it contains 120 cm3 (4.1 floz) of refrigerant oil. While the A/C system is in operation, the oil is carried through the entire system by the refrigerant. Some of this oil will be trapped and retained in various parts of the system.
When the following system components are changed, it is necessary to add oil to the system to replace the oil being removed with the component.
Compressor oil: SUN PAG 56
Quantity:
Evaporator: 60 cm3 (2.0 floz)
Condenser: 15 cm3 (0.5 floz)
Suction hose: 10 cm3 (0.3 floz)
Receiver: 10 cm3 (0.3 floz)
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55 - HEATER,AIR CONDITIONING AND VENTILATION
INSPECTION
RESISTOR CHECK
Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the terminals. Check that the measured value is at the standard value.
Standard value:
MEASUREMENT TERMINAL STANDARD VALUE Ω
Between terminals 3 and 2 (LO) 2.3
Between terminals 3 and 4 (ML) 1.1
Between terminals 3 and 1 (MH) 0.4
BLOWER FAN AND MOTOR CHECK
When battery voltage is applied between the terminals, check that the motor operates. Also, check that there is no abnormal noise.
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