Turbo hunting time...

Long time no talk everyone, well its just about time to start hunting for a turbo. Found an amazing deal on a 2g twin cam head with exhaust manifold and intake manifold mounted with (claims to be) all new OEM gaskets/hardware, comes with coil packs, injectors, fuel rail and i think power transistor valve cover and a few other things, should be picking it up this weekend. Have been looking around on craigslist and ebay. Have yet to find any decent deals on turbos. Currently there is one on ebay a 14b, however a stud is stuck inside the threads of the turbine housing. I should really ask him for a picture to see whats up with it. Anyone have a turbo laying around in decent "usable" condition?? lol

Now for the cylinder head and stuff.
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By red2k5timmy at 2011-12-03

I have a good 14b turbo under my bed, the only reason why im getting rid of it is because i decided to step it up a bit and go with a waayy bigger turbo, (Borg Warner S259).. Let me check it out and il send you pictures and from there we can work something out.

Sounds good, thanks man, hey guys, i've been thinking head gasket lately, really unsure of what to get. My goals, between 10-15lbs maybe more?? of boost, depending what route i go with my bottom end. Will be ordering an ARP head stud kit, along with an OEM timing belt kit/water pump.

I need to get this thing milled....ugh
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By red2k5timmy at 2011-12-03

i got the 14B, tapped oil pan, 450 cc injectors, 2G BOV, EVO FMIC, MAST GEn2, AEM wideband,2G turbo manifold, Pillar with all gauges boost, water, etc...,Intercooler Piping with all couplers, GM MAF. all for sale. Hit me with a PM if interested.

the mounting surface looks ok from the pic. the combustion chamber will be that dirty even if you get it cleaned. I have my head surfaced as i am running a Cometic MLS head gasket and the MLS gaskets require a much smoother surface than the stock composite gaskets. because i am also a crazy person to detail, i took my head completely apart even though i had just pulled it off a running motor with no issues. i found the valve guides were shot because they were not replaced when the motor was rebuilt and the valve seals were going bad and that caused the valves to have an issue when i went to lap them in. so i got new guides, new seals, upgraded evo valve springs, 5 angle valve job ( 2 on the valve, 3 on the head) and the head leveled for around 475.

remember you are going to need the 1994 galant GS cam gears and timing belt and plug 5 holes on the block that the DOHC doesnt use and that become exposed after the swap.

I will probably have it at least taken apart and hot tanked get it nice and clean, previous owner claims for it to be nearly (ran for 6,000 ish miles) fresh back from the machine shop with new valve guides and seals (all oem). I would love for this to be true, but i'd never really know. I will probably wind up taking the entire thing apart up to the valve springs (i don't have a spring compressor) and taking it to the machine shop. I really want to run N/A for a bit to make sure my ECU swap goes smoothly. The factory 4g64 head gasket would make sense to me, however I have not the slightest clue if its going to hold any kind of boost or not. Can I run an MLS headgasket N/A?? I don't know how that would effect my CR.

PS lol, through reading nearly every single 7g DOHC swap, I've learned these 5 freeze or expansion plugs to plug the oil drain ports are a pain in the A** to find. Did you guys get them from a local machine shop? or order them online?

Every parts store in town and a machine shop. Not all the sizes posted fit my block right so several trips and some slightly different size plugs.

I hate supply and demand lol, i'd be willing to bet that if the 4g64 dohc motor was more "common" they would sell full timing belt component kits for them too. So far i emailed extremepsi and asked if i could get the 2g DSM timing belt component kit with the 4g64 dohc belt rather then the "DSM" belt, and they said no, i'd have to buy both the kit, along with the belt i'd need, did i mention they were nice enough to remind me that i would also need the 4g64 timing gears

You can take the valve springs apart by using a deep socket with tape over the spot for the ratchet so the keepers don't jump too far. I have the valve spring tool. Too bad you probably live way too far away for me to be any help. Stock head gasket with correctly torqued ARP head studs can hold boost fine. I have the stock and a cometic 87mm MLS as I decided I want to be able to push a little higher and be safe. The cometic is usually around 75 bucks and the OEM one is the same area so y not go for it. And if you get the 1.3mm cometic it is the same thickness as stock so no issue compression wise. Most people use the 1.6 when they have to machine the head a good deal and are worried about piston to valve clearance.

For the timing you also need the early 95 2g tensioner, yes the most expensive one as well. Other than that all the same as every 2g

Hey Galanttuner, thanks for the heads up on the tensioner I can't recall reading that anywhere lol and ya I'm all the way in Aurora IL. Haven't seen too many nice G's around :012: yours is sweet BTW. Like I said i'm going to call a machine shop and see how much it will be to hot tank re surface and what ever else they/you guys suggest. Any good advice on getting the crud off these valves safely??

They should clean up the valves and if you machine the head, have the seats and valves cut. If you aren't going that way then get some fuel injector cleaner and set the valves up in a pan and let them soak for a couple days.

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Originally Posted by red2k5timmy

PS lol, through reading nearly every single 7g DOHC swap, I've learned these 5 freeze or expansion plugs to plug the oil drain ports are a pain in the A** to find. Did you guys get them from a local machine shop? or order them online?

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the 1/2" and 5/8" freeze plugs are easy to find. the 11/16" are hit and miss. I just order extra 5/8" steel plugs and hammer them down til they bulge about the size of the 11/16", add a little ultra grey RTV and knock them into place.

I know u can use a 4g63t timing belt just have to grind stock tensioner a bit. Also u can ur 1g cam gears. They off by 1.5 teeth. And does the GST oil pan bolt up to our 94-95 Gs?

No you can not use stock 1g or 2g timing gears.

I already answered your question in another post. Start paying attention!

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Originally Posted by mko

you also need: IC piping, 2g oil pan, oil return line, oil feed line kit, downpipe, head to manifold gasket, manifold to turbo gasket, turbo to o2 housign gasket, o2 housing to downpipe gasket, piggy back controller, turbo intake pipe, IC couplers, t-bolt clamps, j-pipe.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Posey

I know u can use a 4g63t timing belt just have to grind stock tensioner a bit. Also u can ur 1g cam gears. They off by 1.5 teeth. And does the GST oil pan bolt up to our 94-95 Gs?

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Use the 64 DOHC timing belt and the correct timing gears to be sure as this is critical stuff here. There are no second chances once the pistons hit that valves if you do it wrong. All 95-99 turbo motors are the same regardless of fwd or awd. I've read your other posts and don't believe you are ready for this. Collect the parts and search. I have had my car for 5 years and I am just about to turbo and DOHC after 4 years or research.

yea, jeez.

JNZ sells the 4g64 dohc timing gears for $25 and the 4g64 dohc timing belt for $40. Unless you want the Gates or HKS 4g63 super strong belts where you have to grind down the tensioner, there's nothing better than oem 4g64 dohc timing belt.

Do it once and do it right!!

I think seth or peano wrote tutorial or something up on it if using the 1g cam gears its a 1/2 tooth off for each gear. Tdc remains same as far as crank and its mark is concerned though.

Thats from oarctic with the DOHC swap and a Distibutor.

And I got AEM Cam gears with a Gates 4g63t belt. the head I got came with them...BTW any links for the build thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Posey

I think seth or peano wrote tutorial or something up on it if using the 1g cam gears its a 1/2 tooth off for each gear. Tdc remains same as far as crank and its mark is concerned though.

Thats from oarctic with the DOHC swap and a Distibutor.

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No, you cant use OEM 1g or 2g timing gears period. Yes it is off by 1/2 tooth but that does not mean you can set the timing by just turning the cam gear 1/2 tooth and slap the belt on it.

TDC at the crank is the same for all 7 bolt engines regardless if its 2.0 or 2.4L.

So what was ment by that?

You figure the things out. Im done. I shared my opinions and knowledge about Galants too many times in your threads. I've said the things I wanted to say, but you keep asking the same questions over and over again. My patience is about to come to an end. My car has been SUCCESSFULLY boosted, DOHC swapped and built with forged internals by me. I know what the hell i am talking about and you dont.

So If I see a thread or post where you ask questions that I know they had been answered before or you give someone wrong advice that could lead to serious damages, I will delete post/threads and you get warnings.

Now I have to apologize to OP for hi jacking the thread and going off topic.
Now back on " turbo hunting time", other off topic posts will result in warnings as well.

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Originally Posted by Galanttuner10

For the timing you also need the early 95 2g tensioner, yes the most expensive one as well. Other than that all the same as every 2g

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Do you mean the hydraulic unit or the arm itself?

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

Do you mean the hydraulic unit or the arm itself?

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The auto tensioner not the actual arm the pulley goes on

I used the stock 7ga tensioner with no problems. I don't remember there being any differences in tensioners between all 2.4 7g. op is plugging holes so he is using 2.4 7g block correct? Did I read something wrong here?

You are confusing yourself. A GS and the early 7gs 94 and 95 and the early 95 2gs use the same tensioner. He was on extreme psi and they list everything in accordance to DSMs so I clarified that. I will get even more specific here as if the block is from production period Feb 1993 to Aug 2 1995 you use tensioner MD308587. And if your car or block is production period Aug 3 1995 to the last of the 7gs you use tensions MD308086

Thanks for the info again everyone, MKO sry about your frustrations hopefully i didn't ask anything twice, normally I pay close attention to that. I definitely know about using the OEM 4g64 DOHC timing gears along with the belt and not having to worry about a pain in the A** timing job lol, and Posey no offense dude, but can you please stop pissing people off in my threads I don't want them to be ignored due to someone else's ignorance

My bad man hope u get the info u need. Let us know how it works out for ya

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