You dont need it behind the cat. You want it between the cat and downpipe elbow. If you cant hit a full 8psi, then you have a boost or vacuum leak. Run a boost leak test, fix your leaks, see where your AFRs are at then.
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You dont need it behind the cat. You want it between the cat and downpipe elbow. If you cant hit a full 8psi, then you have a boost or vacuum leak. Run a boost leak test, fix your leaks, see where your AFRs are at then.
I havent pushed it Seth, Id rather go 1 psi at the time. Im running 4 psi right now, Ill try it to 5-6 tomorrow. But Ill do boost leak test as soon as I can.
Well, car has been running good at 5 psi. Im afraid to go higher with the boost, cuz i dont know whats the condition of the head gasket. Anyway it has to go soon, cuz the DOHC head is almost ready. Cuz im broke right now, I wont be buying new 3mm port lifters, and will be using the old ones. Followed some cleaning techniques on VFAQ and pumped out all the old oil. Right now they are soaking in Seafoam and Acetone mix and tomorrow Ill let them dry and prime them with oil .
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0741.jpg
Next on the list is the FIAV/IAC. Well the FIAV block off plate worked great for the summer and its getting really cold at night, so Im having trouble keeping it idling in the morning. It takes around 5 min to make it idle on its own, so Im not happy with it.
This is another block off plate, but partial one - only for the FIAV. The IAC ports are opened and I will see how it works tomorrow.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0739.jpg
Got new injector clips and Ill be doing that tomorrow as well.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0740.jpg
I had the entire IAC blockoff and just raised the base idle in the winter so it would idle real low when it was cold and was at an acceptable RPM when it was warmed up.
MKO great work! how dose the 5psi treat you so far ??
btw this might be a silly Q but by what means are you using for cooling the 16g???
It means that Mitsu turbos are oil cooled and water cooled. Since we dont have the additional nipples on the thermostat housing to feed the coolant and the nipple on the water pipe to drain the coolant from the turbo, we use the throttle body water lines for that reason.
yup.. i wasnt going to run waterlines, then thought of swapping out the water pipes but im now going to use the throttle body lines.
i like how far ur car has come. great work
^^Thanks.
I Had the new injector clips installed and tucked the wiring away and It looks really nice/Phizz/ while Skrap sealed the oil pan. Its all good now, just need to install the SAFC and tune the car, cuz Im still having problems with the AFRs at idle /too lean/ and richen up the top end a litttle more.
Next on the list: Get the DOHC ECU in and install coilpacks.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0743.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0744.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0745.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0746.jpg
Primed the lifters - ready to install. Now all head parts are either new or "reconditioned" and ready to install. The valve spring compressor, I have, is a PITA, but ill make it work. I have 4 out of 16 valves installed with springs.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0747.jpg
ok only thing im unfirmiliar with.. the resistor pack.. when i test ran everything it was with stock injectors.. any issues with the wiring or mind for a quick explination of how you did it
Very Clean MKO, After looking at your J-pipe again, I notice your missing a fan in the location.
Are you still running AC? or is the fan on the oposite side? Mine looks the same except my pacesetter manifold melted my only fan a little.
The injectors have 2 wires - a power line with constant +12V and a signal wire. For my car the power wires were black, but It may differ thru the years. So, you mark 2 inches after the clip and cut the power wires for all injectors. Then all the wires at the harness side have to be spliced all together and then connected to the thickest wire of the resistor pack. The resistor pack has 4 more wires coming out, these wires need to be spliced with the 2 inch short injector wiresQuote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
Well, my j-pipe was designed for SMIC and the way it came down, it was pointing towards the transmission. So, I cut if off and put that coupler with 2.5'' aluminum pipe that I had laying around, but that pipe didnt clear the fan so it had to go. The AC doesnt work, but that fan turns on with the main fan and I can notice it takes a little longer for a single fan to cool down the engine temps. When I get a new J-pipe designed to FMIC Ill install it back and do the fan control bypass.Quote:
Originally Posted by phizzalot
cool, My ac compressor is dead so that's why I didn't worry about the fan either... What type of j-pipe will you be looking for to fit the fmic? I need one too..
Great work on this man. Really like what you have done and what is coming.
^^Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by phizzalot
Ebay will do it. Dont feel like spending too much money on that
funny thing is the a/c fan is actually the fan on the drivers side.
I melted mine into a solid piece of plastic a while back when a manifold failed on me.
I never installed a new drivers side one cause I loooooove the extra space i have for wrenching now lol.
True words of a mechanic right there!^
Good work mko!
Im getting frustrated. I found a welder to do the roof, but its 220V and where my car is parked there is only standard outlets.
hey mko, if you dont mind could you post up some pics if how you had to trim you hood to get the strut bar to fit.
I still havent