RPW Headers vs. OBX: Short vs. Long etc.

Does anyone have any experience with getting headers off of this site:
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php

From what I've read RPW was/is one of the better makers out there, next to RIPP. I also read somewhere that the OBX headers on eBay weren't bad.

I'm trying to decide between some OBX Short tubes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Exhaust-...dc8a83&vxp=mtr

or the RPW short tubes:
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php...emart&Itemid=1

If anyone that has solid information on either could shed some light on ordering the RPW ones (do they ship from AU or US, whats the cost, etc.) that would be awesome. and if anyone knows anything about the rpw long tubes (that's what I really want) that would be nice too:

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php...emart&Itemid=1

and I've also found some OBX longs on eBay too but not specific to our cars, would they fit easy enough?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Exhaust-...888ced&vxp=mtr

I have Hytech Headers http://www.hytechexhaust.com

The headers are made to order, so you have to wait about 1 to 2 months for them to make them. I think shipped to your door $1,445.00 and it sounds like alot and it is. If you order from RPW you have to pay more for shipping and then you have to pay US customs. So the price is about the same or the RPW might be more after all said and done.

Here's stock vs Hytech, see how much better the Hytech flows


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/1...9bfffb33_b.jpg

It won't make squat of a difference what you run in terms of power, just sound, unless you're playing in the heavily modified 3.8 league.

OBX's DO NOT FIT. Remember that.. o2 bungs in unuseable locations and the downpipe is a ballpark fitment at best. The flanges are in there general area but it NEEDS extensive cutting and welding to make work.

RPW's are bolt up.

I've heard every set mentioned sound terrible and sound great. It's all in how you engineer the modifications needed to make things work.

thanks for the pic Black8GV6, those are really nice looking but like you said, $1500 is a lot...I'm playing more in the $500 range right now which is why I was looking at RPW/OBX stuff...I wondered if RPW had a customs/shipping or if they had some stuff already state-side =[

Silvertune thanks for that, good to know that they don't fit! they say its a direct replacement of the oe system (emailed em and all that) but if you have experience or know something that's tried it ill take you word for it. just to clarify are you talking the long or shorts?


I'm guessing this is a shot in the dark but is there any headers around $500 (to my door step +/- $100) that would do any better than stock or is $1500 really the best we can get?

What about the 3000GT stuff? IIRC I saw somewhere that said they don't match up cuz the block is flipped around or something???



Thanks for the quick and helpful responses!!!

oh and silvertune, im bring back the old RIPP SDS and probably gonna sit around 5-7 psi for a while, goal is more like 10+ later on but pistons come first =/

you can find some used Hytechs and used Ripps on ebay or club3g from time to time, not sure if you know but Ripp stopped making the headers and supercharger for our cars. PM member Cleazy123 ( http://www.thegalantcenter.org/membe...9316-cleazy123 ) he just put on some OBX V6 headers.

I really like my RPW's, I got them a long time ago so I'm not sure how hard they are to get a hold of now. The car sounds demented on open header, remember you also have to get a 2.5" exhaust to run them. At least that is how my set was.

yeah I already picked up the SDS on ebay for about 600, hell of a steal if you ask me when even a used vortech v5 is going for $1250+

ill keep browsing the bay for headers and see if I can pick up anything

AutoX it does sound scary running open headers. I have an electric cutout in place of that first resonator, just behind the cat, and when it worked I freaking loved it. scraped it on some stuff a while back and tore the engine off so its getting replaced sometime down the road... =[ I like it since I can flip a switch and go silent for the long drives or when im cruising with the lady ya know ^.^

I've installed multiples sets of every headers available for these cars. Most of the exhausts too. The OBX's require a nuts amount of modification and the plated stainless sucks balls to weld. That said, they're the best designed header for these motors that I've seen next to the RPW short tubes as far as performance ideas. They're the big 1 5/8 primaries and dump into a 2 1/8 collector. In a couple different 3g's now they've sounded absolutely fantastic, although they've also sounded horrible on others. I've heard RPW's sound horrible and great also. The ebay and ripp garbage dump into 2.5" collectors which are way too big and result in a hideous exhaust note no matter what you put behind them. The RPW short tubes or OBX short tubes can be just a smidge louder than stock when paired with the right exhaust setup.

If ordering from RPW weren't such a roll of the dice I'd say it's worth spending the little extra money. Unless you're skilled with a welder you'll spend a pretty penny getting OBX's put in.

I can't remember if my RPW's are the short or long tube, but it came as a 3 piece kit plus a cat that replaced everything up to the catback, I believe they called them the short tubes, but I don't remember. Either way it exits with a 2.5" and I had to have a custom catback made.

I'm not rolling dimes with a mig but I do well enough I've never had my current exhaust screw up on me (so far as welds go) and there was no way you were gonna break the welds (tried to when I cut something out last year). Would the stainless be easier to use stainless mig wire on or tig? dad just got a new tig but I've never used it...His GF is a union welder for a living so I feel like between the three of u we could cut it up bad enough to work :044: if that's the only option I have at this point but autox has got me convinced I need to tranny swap ASAP so these are getting put on hold for now

ill hop on over to club3g and try to find a "for sale" section or something along those lines...noticed ours doesn't work or have anything listed? (been a week or two since I checked)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cleazy123

Quote:

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Originally Posted by demond0d5

Hey names Jake, out of KCK, and Black8GV6 sent me your way saying you just picked up a set of OBX Headers for the 6g72. I was wondering just how well they fit as an oe replacement? Was the install relatively easy or did you have to mod a lot of stuff to get them to sit right?
Thanks for your time =]

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Fitment was perfect ...hardest part will be getting the old ones off while still in the engine bay...the nuts that hold the oem ones on we're pretty hard to crack loose without rounding the heads...the rear cylinder head nuts gave me the hardest time...oh and the heat shields are held on by 10 mm bolts that rust themselves to the oem manifold...I used a cutoff wheel and a pair of Weiss snips and cut them off to reveal access to the nuts. Btw the new headers actually have a bung for the egr tube, so just unbolt it from the intake manifold (two bolts) don't lose the gasket...and after you drop the rear manifold use a huge crescent wrench and on blaster and have fun blasting the C-wrench with a 4 lb sledge TIL in unthreads out of the manifold.
p.S one other thing ...you HAVE TO remove the intake manifold to put these in and they DELETE ALL 3 CATALYTIC CONVERTERS.
If you need any other help just let me know
CLEAZ

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so contrary to what Silvertune said, seems like Cleaz had some good luck...It'll be a while till I can try it out for myself but once I get the cash I will update for future peoples' info =]

Hm. Well I sent OBX a pretty serious write up on them when I did my last install. Long descriptions with pictures as to what all is off. Perhaps they've come out with a new set although I have a brand new pair in my shop right now that I purchased a week ago that are as the sets I did before that do not fit at all. Could just be old inventory.

could be, who knows...I really wanna get mine now just to see but 5 speed comes first ^.^

whenever you mess with that new set sitting in your shop put up a picture like the one Black8GV6 did at the top of this post so everyone can get an idea of what to expect! That would be extremely helpful so far as a good comparison ya know =]

hey one more thing, just went to poke around my engine bay a little and im a little confused...why does my exhaust manifold/headers not look like the ones Black8G put up? i don't have that whole mess of shit on the back either...anyone explain this? here's a couple pics:

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...adersrear3.jpg
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...adersrear1.jpg
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...adersrear2.jpg

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...d5/headers.jpg


seems to me like the ones on my car now look pretty similar to the OBX ones...is there perhaps different types of headers that came on different models/years of the 8g? so far as i know, mine is a 2000 GTZ although the guy i got it from wasn't 100% certain...i guess it could also be a (LS or ES?)

edit: by close i mean looks kinda similar, obviously not the same ones.

yours look the same, give me some time I post up some pics

your G I think is Fed spec, mine was Cali spec

I have all the heat sheilds off.


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/...838fffcb_b.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/...0d1d62aa_o.jpg

Yes Demond that is a fed spec car. One main cat no precats.

ah ok! the extra cats are why it is all bent up and stuff right next to the start XD thanks for the info

silvertune: the obx headers you worked on was the car cali or fed spec? I figure that could make a difference on the fitment and o2 sensor stuff right?
cali would have o2 sensors with the extra 2 cats and fed wouldn't need em right? looking down from the top I don't see any o2 sensors (I do remember seeing at least 1 under the car after the cat, maybe 1 before too idr)