flooding on start up.

so i have been having some problems starting my G lately. Everytime i go to start it it floods out and i have to pull the plugs out and clean them to get it to run. SO as most of you guys know i have the 2.4 running 1g 4g63 head, 2g maf, 98 ecu, turbo etc etc,... Im thinking either coolant temp sensor,bad maf,leaky injectors, I am getting spark to every cylinder verified bye a spark tester. I have the wally rewired directly to the battery via relay from ignition switch. what is causing all this fuel to dump into my cylinders during start up? I know its been pretty cold up here lately but usually it pops right off. I also noticed it only does this when its super cold out below 20 degrees outside. When its around 32 or so it fires right up. any ideas>??

The ECU is set to have the cold starts very rich, but it still shouldnt be doing that.

Did you have the compression issues figured out? Do you get good compression to all cyls?

ya i did the head was starting to lift from using old shitty bolts. Put my new arps in and torqued them down and now i have even compression across all four. it was starting to lift in the two middle cylinders. Every single plug is dripping wet when i pull them even after like 2 seconds of cranking...

I can unhook the injectors and then it will start and run for a couple seconds and die once all the fuel is burnt outa the cylinders.

what are the settings for the MAFT?

No maft anymore just stock 2g (609) maf running stock intake piping. I switched to the 98 flashable ecu so im not running blow through anymore.

Have you done a boost leak test? Post maf leaks are the most common issue with the stock setup.

No blt lately its been 20 below and my car sits outside lol. I thought of a B.L. but why would it make a differnce when its warmer the only thing that really does come to my mind is compression but its solid. Hmmmm.... Wait i have been randomly getting fuel cut lately also when i take it for a spin i just thought it was because it was so cold out and colder air is more dense which in turn takes more fuel to burn.

when its cold its more likely there are bigger gaps than when its warmer everything seals up on its own (not always)

I had similar issue when I did the stock setup a few months back. The turbo compressor housing o-ring was leaking and it was stalling randomly with AFRs going pig rich

Ya cuz im seeing 10.5 afr in boost and i noticed during fuel cuts its always in the 10s for afr. Tomorow its suppose to be warmer im going to do some logs and see what i can figure out. Ill try a boost leak test also guess thats really all it can be.

OK now im pissed. so i started my car today went for a cruise everything was running excellent and was pulling hard but i noticed lost little power in bottom of second so i drive back home and check things out. idles smooth drives smooth turbo spools fast so i decided to do a compression test for the hell of it well heres my numbers and this was took with two differnt compression testers with all four plugs out and throttle part open. From left to right looking at the motor. 90 10 60 100. How could it even run with these numbers.

when you did the test was it at operating temp? and did u disconnect the crankshaft position sensor? and did u put a towel or cloth over the spark plug hole to check if any oil or coolant is getting in there?

the DOHC stock compression is 206 PSI and the limit is 157 PSI anf the difference in cylinders should be no more than 14 PSI apart

try pouring a small amount of oil in the spark plug hole as a test and heres what may happen

1. if the compression increases after the oil is added the cause of the issue is worn or damaged piston rings and/or the cylinder inner surface.

2. if the compression doesnt rise the cause is a burnt or defective valve seat or your loosing pressure out of the head gasket.

your timing is off brotha, i may should have read more of your posts but did you change any part of your map?

NO CHRIS I WILL NOT LOL im pulling the head off tomorrow cuz I want to have it pressure tested. i plan i tearing it apart starting tomorow now that its finally warm enough out and start the rebuild. THE "now im pissed" was suppose to be sarcastic.

map as in fuel map or map sensor. My timing is dead on iv timed it about 10 different times.

i was just saying ways to check it. need any other help of info let me know

I will you have been a big help! you, mko and galant306 are the reason the car even runs now lol.

First off, go buy yourself the 64 DOHC cam gears and stop thinking you can pull it off with 63 cam gears.

It sounds like my issue after the rebuild and the main reason why the car was done month after. You should have cleaned the head and at least clean the valves as much as you could before installing it. My problem was with 2 of the lifters, that happened to be installed on the same cylinder. When I was doing my static compression Id get 30, 195,200,205. This shit puzzled me for i long time, because I knew I bled the lifters before installing them. Whatever i did i could never get the cylinder to hold compression. I pulled the head out, switched gaskets, I did the timing like 20 times.......it was very frustrating...........and in my frustration I pulled the cams out and all cylinders sealed......I was like GOT CHA BEOTCH. I bled all the lifters once again and I had compression to all cylinders. When I had the head out, I spun the cams so each cyl reaches TDC and then pour antifreeze in the combustion chamber and I was looking for leaks, but there were none which was getting me even more frustrated until I found my problem.

So these are all different way to check things out.

For the not machined surfaces of the head and block, I got some copper spray. I put all cyls in the middle and shoved some towels on top, then I covered the surrounding area with cloth and then I sprayed the block surface until I couldnt see imperfections. I did the same with the head surface. I cleaned the cylinder walls with some acetone very carefully so i didnt wipe the copper spray off the top and then installed the head gasket. Make sure that the head is at TDC before installing it.

Timing - how do you do it?

The intake cam mark is dead horizontal, the exhaust cam mark is a bit above it.Put the t-belt on the intake gear and zip tie there. Use a 17mm to bring the exhaust cam to line up with the intake cam mark. Hold it in place and wrap the belt around it. The fact that you have to pull the exhaust cam gear to line will provide tension for the belt after you remove the wrench. Zip tie the belt for the exhaust cam gear. Then start running the belt from the back side - idle pulley, oil pump and crank sprocket. Now mine was tricky here, I could line up the oil pump, but the i couldnt slip the belt over the crank sprocket, because it wanted to be tooth off to slide it on it. So i reversed the crank to the left so the belt slid on the sprocket. Now the timing would be off at the crank and the belt would feel very loose. So I put a ratchet in there I spun the crank clockwise until the crank mark lined up and the belt had some decent tension. I did that so all the slack the belt has is between the exhaust cam gear and the crank sprocket and it can be picked up by the tension pulley. Everyone does the tension pulley differently. This is the way i used and it work pretty good. I got a 3/8 ratchet with a 14mm on it and I put it on the tension pulley bolt after i loosened it. Just put it there and let it go down pointing to the ground. I got a long arm alen key that fits into the hole of the tension pulley, and I let the long arm rest up against the socket. So you have the handle of the ratchet pointing 6 oclock and the free end of the alen key pointing 1 or 2 oclock. So I pushed down on that free end and since it was leaning against the socket it will move the pulley clockwise. It will bring the second hole up enough so you can use it the same way. Once you feel you have enough tension to the belt you hold that alen key with one hand and with the other you tighten that bolt with the ratchet. You should be able to start the car before you pull the pin of the auto tensioner

That last part is hard to explain and if you havent done it that way its hard to understand. Ill take pictures if you want

edit: i found a pic

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...hmentid=56211)