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Engine questions.
im shooting for a good solid reasonable priced build that will hit 450-500 hp. I'm doing the 2.4 with the dohc probably 2g head with Brian crower cams? 20 turbo if I can find one. Any advice on engine internals? Most of the rods and pistons I'm looking at are $700-1000 for a set, any good brands suggestions. Going with 9:1 pistons since I'll run 20 lbs of boost. Going with an 8g crank from other suggestions. Should I go used or new with crank? Several 8gs in the yard here. My other question being good brand names for all new head parts. I don't want to have to touch this engine for 100k+ trying to figure it all out without spending a fortune. I posted back in 2012 originally and just now getting to starting the engine internals. I'm still on the hunt for parts if anyone has them in great shape. Any suggestions on trimming the cost on some of this? I have a 98 eclipse in the yard with ecu in it. The dohc head is here as well and my manual tranny. If anyone has good ones I'm not opposed though. Guess I'm trying to trim the cost on the engine and head internals and make sure i don't double my cost for no reason. I'm used to working on 440 383 350 so the 4 banger scene is a little knew to me makes me sad this gallant will smoke my old 70 charger though which i had to sell so she's letting me throw some money at the 7g. Thanks all.
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Wiseco - Eagle is the most popular combo. It will run you about $800 if you buy it as a kit.
Brian Crower are crappy cams, but they are good for mild 400 hp.
For the head - inspect valves for pitting or detonation marks on the laps. If they are good the give a good cleaning, replace valve seals and have Brian Crower springs. These will cost you round 80-90 bucks.
ARP head studs for 7 bolt engine is a must, and depending on the year of your engine you can pick the main and rod bearings. 96 and above require different main bearings than 94-95 engines.
You can use 2g timing belt, but you need to grind half of the tensioner arm where the hydrolic tensioner pushes on. If you dont grind it the tensioner pulley will grind on the water pump.
you'll need 4g64 cam gears from 94gs too.
You need the 94 gs head gasket as well.
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_inf...oducts_id=3333
Id suggest having this tool as well. It comes very handy.
http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=213
this is the cheaper version of balance shaft elimination kit. There's a better one, but you said you wanna stay on budget.
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_inf...roducts_id=126
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MKO, 96 uses the same style bearings as the 94-95, mid 97 they switched to the trust washer revised style.
You will also need larger than a 20G turbo as the 20G maxes out at around 400 wheel realistically. FP cams and Comp Cams are the same and are a great product. Balance shaft elimination is a must.
As far as internals Manley or eagle Rods are good and wiseco has many piston options. Manly have some good pistons as well. My setup is different and it is a 2.4 long rod motor using rods that are 6mm longer than stock and then stroker pistons which moves the wrist pin on the piston to make up that 6mm. This causes a better rod angle ratio and because of that you have a 2.4 that can rev to 8500 safely where a normal 2.4 can only rev to 7500. So 1000 rpms really helps with larger turbos and cams. Sacrifices no low end and can rev as high as the 4G63. That's y I went that way. Now that motor isn't in my car right now, I want to see the potential of a stock bottom end with a built DOHC right now.
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It's great to see people putting so much into 7g still I love mine and have jut spent almost a grand on it. They seem to be dying no one seems to look after them.
I want to do a full body work and respray but that's not any time soon
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Thank you all.
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Is the above link a Descent set of rods and pistons for the 95 g?
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