TURBO FAQ

Due to high volume of question that I get on my e-mail regrarding my turbo setup, I decided to write this so
every time I don't have to answer the mail every time.
It is sort of FAQ that I get all the time, so I wrote all the answers down.

1. What parts did you use for the turbo?????

here is my complete turbo system:
Turbo: TDO5 - small 16g
2g eclipse gst exhaust manifold
Custom made adapter
Wastgate: Tial 35mm (previous was running Turbonetics Delta Mark II )External
Intercooler: Spearco Core Front Mount (don't know the part #) 2.25" and 2.5" pipng neck output Air/Air with Stairon End Tanks on
Custom 2.5" exhaust - fabricated at local
Apex'i Twin Chamber Blow Off Valve
Transmission Cooler
Clams, Oil Lines by Turbonetcis
Pipes are madrel bend, cutom made painted black
4" Mitsubishi air filter adapter (aluminum)
OBX 4" air filter
K&N Breather filter

Fuel Control:
460 cc High Impidia Denso Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Apex'i Super Air Flow Converter
Fuel Pressure Regulator (Vortech 12:1 FMU)

Gauges:
Autometer Pro Comp Boost Gauge
Autometer Pro Comp EGT Gauge

Engine Internals:
JE custom made low compression turbo pistons
JE rings
Stock Mitsubishi Head Gasket

Spark Plugs:
NGK BKR7E

Other parts:
Greaddy/Trust Manual Boost controler
Greaddy Turbo Timer

2. What Oil do you use?

Engine is Running on Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil 15w-50
with High Effeciancy Mobil 1 Oil Filter
91 Octane Gasoline

3. How much did ot cost you with the insallation?

I got the deal on the install, so i got the deal on the setup.But then i had to buy pistons, rings,injectors, SaFC,
and some other stuff that run me a big chunk of money. So overall I spended about 6K on the setup with the install.

4. Who install your turbo setup?

Tony from Final Stage Motorsports in Las Vegas did all the work. He designed the setup.



5.Is the performance of your turbo the same as the ones that Doug and Rippmods make???

My turbo kit is better than any of the vendors that are selling it. First off all I have the Front Mount Intercooler (which I wanted bad).
The price of the purchuesd set with FMI is outrages. Second of all I have the extrnal wastgate. It is not easy to fit, that is why turbo kits purchused
from the vendors have some difficulties, and often they run problems with the installation.
Third of all, I saved a lot of money on the installation. Usually when u buy a turbo kit from the website and then u try to find a place to install it -
people that are going to put it on are going to charge u a hgood chunk of money - and what if something is missing, or something doesn't work
all right?
Also the other reason why I went with the custom setup is that I chosed whatever I wanted. I decided what turbo I wnat, what intercoolrer I wanna run,
what gauges I want, what OV i wanna see and hear, etc..Of course those decision were discussed with proffesional - who is your advisor.He
gave me a choice and advice.
This topic is it sort of like buying a computer from the store vs. buliding it yorself. Do u now what I mean???


6. How fast is your car, what is quarter mile, how many pounds of boost are u running?


The car is spooling nice, I am running 4.5 psi right now, but once the dual boost controler will be installed I will boost it more.
Don't know what the qurter mile is right now, I am going even with 97 Eagle Talon turbo 5 sp. with some mods, but stock turbo and intercooler.
The car is really fast when it is acctually rolling. I am sort of disapointed of the response from the stop - due to our automatic transmissions.
My first ever dyno only shown 140 whp and 160 ft/lb of torque - due to the lean condition. Injectors were changed and second dyno test after tuning at 4.5psi was 181 WHP and 166 ft/lb of torque.
Not bad for only 4.5 psi of boost.

[u]7. What is the air to fuel ratio I should be running on the turboed 4g64?

It should be in low 12s , like 12.1:1 air to fuel ratio to be on the safe side so u don't blow anything. Use wideband oxygen sensors - they are expansive but real, accurate and precised tuning devices.

Take care.

8. LINKS:

Read also "There goes my turbo" post.
http://www.clubtgc.org/forum/viewtopic.php...der=asc&start=0

Check out this web site - 4g64 turbo page, where u can excately find the part numbers and read some stuff about it.
http://www.4g64.150m.com/turbo.html
If u have any technical issues contact Curt V. Shambeau ([email protected]) - he is really helpful guy and I am sure he will help u out.

the 97 t/e/l stock boost is like 15 lbs. 1g turbos are 10.5 lbs. and that's with 450's. with a small 16 and 550's and a fmic, you should be able to run a LOT more boost, especially if you have lower comp pistons in there. my vr4 has similar setup to yours, and i am running 17 lbs boost, with no problems. 6 lbs is really low, you probably dont even need a bov. just curious, what are your afc settings, and what kind of egt readings are you getting at wot?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ken inn

the 97 t/e/l stock boost is like 15 lbs. 1g turbos are 10.5 lbs. and that's with 450's. with a small 16 and 550's and a fmic, you should be able to run a LOT more boost, especially if you have lower comp pistons in there. my vr4 has similar setup to yours, and i am running 17 lbs boost, with no problems. 6 lbs is really low, you probably dont even need a bov. just curious, what are your afc settings, and what kind of egt readings are you getting at wot?

---

I know definately he could run 10-12psi, but his tranny will blow up at 8psi.. just 2 much torque for the Mitsu Auto Tranny, now if he had a eclipse or talon tranny for that matter he could push a high lbs rate.. Because i was thinking the samething u were when i read what he had, but i know this is most case has to be his only issue with running at a higher boost, Damn those auto tranny's..

finaly, forced induction Forum....thank u moderators...
yes, i know i can push a lot of boost, but kemist is right...tranny is the issue right now...

I need to save the money for tranny bullet kit, and bigger torque converter....first of all i need to tune my agressor....



KEMIST: what makes u say that tranny will blow at 8ps?
I thought u can go about 10psi - that is with stock compression......

Lower compression is safer for tranny also, am I right or what?

I guess, and the guy (his name is TONY ) were literally guessing on those
settings... I mean if let's say on low setting we go on -16%, then the car
would be working rough - due I guess to too much fuel...We set it at the
values that "seems" good as the car drives. We didn't have and still don't
have a datalogger.

Here are my SAFC settings....
I realize that I should be NEVER use somebody's settings on my car, cuz it really depands on a car how they should be set, though generally they should be close enough. Any comments on those ?


HI-THRTL:
HI Setttings go all the way across at -6%, and at 6000
rpm and upper (I will never use the upper part) is set at +14 %.

LOW THRL:
-34% (1000 rpm)
-33% (2000 rpm)
-32% (3000 rpm)
-31% (4000 rpm)
-30% (5000 rpm)
-29% (6000 rpm)
-28% (7000 rpm) i guess i will never use this one
-28% (8000 rpm) i guess i will never use it

THR-POINT:
Low: 20 High: 80

NE-POINT: we don't know how to set it, so it is default
DEC-Air : we don't know how to set it, so it is default


In the ETC menu on sfac.....

SENSOR TYPE : KARMAN
CAR SELECT: We chose 4 ( thoug) cylinder with the arrow up.
(Wonder if the arrow should be down or perhaps we should set it on the
******* options (which i guess meas no sensor).
GRAPH SCALE; don't know how to set it so it is default
SENSOR CHECK : don't know how to set it, so it is default
VFD BRight : default

We have no idea how to set the rest of the stuff, I wonder if you could help me with that one.


My EGT readings ( i am using Autometer Pro-Comp Series Silver Gauge)
are in Farenheit degrees, but i also converted them to Celsius for u, since most of the regular EGT's give u Celsius readings...

Anyway, when i am driving regually on the street (and I am not boosting) EGT reads about 1000 to 1100 degrees of F (that is 537 to 593 degrees of Celsius) . IF I am going on freeway or I am going uphill (while i am not boosting) EGT usually goes litlle higher ( just a bit) so it works in 1100 to 1200 Farenheit (that is degrees 593 to 648 of Celsius).

Now when I am boosting from 0mph (from the stop) on WOT EGT doesn't go higher than (1400 degrees of F - that is 760 degrees of Celsius.) While going about 50mph and then I get on it (WOT) EGT doesn't go higher than
(1400K-1500 (occasionaly) degrees of Farenheit, that is degrees 760 to 815 range degrees of CElsius.)

What u guys think about it?

well, i use the logger, and tune to fuel and o2 trims. using a 2g mas, denso 550's, jdm fmic and rre pipes, steady cruise i look for about 1350 on the egt, and at wot, about 1600. if you are below 1550, you are too rich, or you are using water injection. i am running 17 lbs boost on a big 16g, ported. from the looks of your afc settings, either your fuel pressure is too hi, or you can go with smaller injectors. in an earlier post, i believe you said you were only runnig 6 lbs boost. if that is so, easily 450's or even 390's would be more than enough, even to 10 lbs boost. i have to wonder why you spent so much on a turbo, got an increase of about 60 hp, when you could do the same with nitrous for way cheaper? you will never be able to utilze the full potential of the turbo system because of the weak trans. also, with fwd, you go more than 10-12 lbs boost, and you will get massive wheel spin and torque steer. even if you build up the trans, soon you will have a car that is worth 10 grand but cost you 25 grand. the evo VII will be here in feb, about 30k new, 280hp, awd, killer brakes, selective suspension, maybe even active yaw, certainly better handling. also, the wrx sti, 6 spd, about the same price. these cars from the get go will have all the needed equipment to go much faster and stop better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DJ Galant

finaly, forced induction Forum....thank u moderators...
yes, i know i can push a lot of boost, but kemist is right...tranny is the issue right now...

I need to save the money for tranny bullet kit, and bigger torque converter....first of all i need to tune my agressor....



KEMIST: what makes u say that tranny will blow at 8ps?
I thought u can go about 10psi - that is with stock compression......

Lower compression is safer for tranny also, am I right or what?

---

I remember on the old board there was a guy trying to prototype a trubo on the 8g, and while boostin at 8psi the tranny had extreme slip,and lost all gears. From what i know about our trannys ur going to have to bulletproof it just to run that high boosts, even with low compression.. The torque alone at the high of boost will cause it to slip, just in drive...

Okay i think ken inn, is right about ur injectors 2, im only running 440cc injectors on my my old motor, just she ran a lil rich thought from what i could tell from the OBD-II and the AFC.. i think u could run on the 390cc injectors and ur running rich problem should be solved, some what.. My only fear about running a turbo is the like he said not being able to run its full potential.. not being able to boost any higher than 8psi is truely a waste, unless u do a 5-speed swap or bulletproof the tranny.. The only good thing about the having an auto is that the sequential shitting of it gives u better shift speed and rate, than the five speed... If u do boost more than 10psi u will get torque steer but u can buy street legal slicks up front to keep the power on the ground, Nitto makes 555's that are street series slicks...

[quote= even if you build up the trans, soon you will have a car that is worth 10 grand but cost you 25 grand. the evo VII will be here in feb,
about 30k new, 280hp, awd, killer brakes, selective suspension, maybe even active yaw, certainly better handling. also, the wrx sti, 6 spd, about the same price. these cars from the get go will have all the needed equipment to go much faster and stop better.[/quote]
well, i guess it true. I invested a lot of money, yet I don't get the desire performance - unless I am going to buil up my tranny, which i will..

lancers evos are probably the sweetest cars there are, though i can't afford 30K, plus my insuracnce rate would be killing me ( i am 21, and NV insurance rates are killing for young people)...............not to say registration fees, taxes, and others....


Besides, i love my galant ...
You would be suprised how many people I smoked with my setup....
at only 6psi....this car is just a sleeper -4 in line turbocharged ..(recently smoked bad a v6 galant with RPW headers and exhaust)
and that is why i like it...it is original..i don't know anyone i las vegas who has turbo 8g galant ..not to say west cost....
So i will defeniately stick with my project, and i will not trade t in for anything (unless I would really have 30K or some serious money).
I will rather spend 2K more on tranny rebuild, crank the boost and i will be set.

the Setup you have, Assuming your compression is below 9:1 is good For upwards of 20Psi of boost

HOWEVER..
you will have issues of your tranny Slipping, and just not working properly.
now, The part where you are screwed is the simple fact that there aren't many options for upgrading a 99+ tranny.

aside From sending it out for a valve job, end Clutches, and better springs..(a la [email protected]) you are pretty much forced To get an EVO 4+ 5-speed tranny $$$$$ or a 2000+ eclipse rs/gs tranny, and beefing it up with EVO parts (forks/syncros, and possibly gears themselves)

your AFC settings.. are somewhat off

considering your stock injectors Were 275cc, and your 550's Are 100% greater..I'm thinking you need to lean it out considerably to see *ANY* type of power (running 8Psi on a 2.4L *SHOULD* break the Tires loose once you hit boost) you are probably losing tons of power due to gross richness (and, if you have a knock-sensor.. you could be losing power due to pre-ignition because of Excess fuel.. it happens)


your decel thing.. is irrelivant..(it's to allow venting BOV's)
your car Should be 4 cyl with rising TPS readings (sensor starts @ .75v, and raises to 5v)

sensor check, if you've done the "blue Wire mod" is where you would check your 02 voltages (in2 if I remember correctly)
and "thrtl" is the TPS voltage Reading.


throttle points.. should be (in my eyes) 15%, and 65%

set your graph scale to 8000Rpm for simplicity sake.

welp.. I'm off.. 10pm.. shift has ended
goodnight All