I give ALL of you props! Water pump. epic fail.

Ok. You guys are amazing. I have NO idea how you deal with these things on a daily basis. I have worked on my Supra's, my Maxima and my BMW.... but never have I been so back'ed up into a corner. No space, Everything seems foreign(even though most of my experience is on Jap cars)... and further more i can't seem to figure out how to do what i need without just pulling the motor out all together.(but there has to be a way to replace the WP with out that?)


Heres the low down, my dad drives a 1996 Galant S. Apparently( and i only know thanks to this forum) 4g64 motor, auto. Just last wee the water pump blew up... literary the shaft that the pulleys are connected to snapped. Now I'm charged with replacing the water pump... Thank god its only 40 bucks however I have been trying to rattle my brain to figure out how in the gods name you replace this thing. I have NEVER put any work in on this car however I am no noob to back yard mechanics. Any help would be appreciated guys. I have found countless manuals that have a list of parts that i need to take off but nothing specifically on how to take them off.


Cliffs. Need a DIY on how to replace the water pump.

http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

^ Same concept just SOHC instead. Waterpump sits behind the timing belt.

There is a service manual located in "General posts" 1st thing on the list. I am sure if you looked up timing belt or water pump replacement it will show you what you need to do. Yes you need to do a timing belt while you are at it. Much of the job is done from below so jack it up and put it on some jack stands, remove wheel and plastic shroud and it is right there. I like to put a floor jack under the engine and remove the driver side engine mount so that I can raise and lower the motor for easier access.

You should change the timing belt, tensioner and idler while your at it. Your already taking it all off, it will only cost you another $130 in parts, you'll thank yourself later.

Thanks for the help fellas. I have the water pump off the car. Now all i need to do is just put everything back together.... lol With the NE weather moving in .. working outside isn't something I'm looking forward to.

good luck, all this snow is going to be a pain in the ass though

yep, and as always it never is with out a problem... I just started putting everything back... it seems that the belt doesn't want to tighten... I need a new tensioner weather i like it or not lol... hopefully the parts store is open tomorrow. Although the car is outside i'm not sure if there is going to be any work done on it :(

New tensioner for the timing belt? If you're replacing the timing belt anyway, they sell quality kits online.

www.rockauto.com

Hope that helps

There are 2 things you have to do to the tensioner. The hydraulic part you will need a bench vise and slowly retract and temporarily pin it. The pulley part that actually rides against the belt is on an eccentric, with bolt loose you simply roll the pulley up to preset tension on belt. Manuals don't always show those details very clearly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

There are 2 things you have to do to the tensioner. The hydraulic part you will need a bench vise and slowly retract and temporarily pin it. The pulley part that actually rides against the belt is on an eccentric, with bolt loose you simply roll the pulley up to preset tension on belt. Manuals don't always show those details very clearly.

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wait, it may be that i spend the whole day outside and my brain is fried from how freezing i am but, are you telling me there is a special way i have to handle the tensioner?

when i was taking this off i just simply took it off. Now it wont expand out, so no tension is given to the belt. From what im gathering of your post is that i have to extend it manually, while putting tension on the belt with the pulley it self?

no! I am sorry if I am explaining poorly. The hydraulic tensioner is held on by two bolts this needs to be removed so you can retract it (compress it) until the holes line up and you place a nail or allen wrench in the hole to keep it lined up. you then bolt it back on motor and proceed to preset the tension on the pulley. I will try to find a picture or something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

no! I am sorry if I am explaining poorly. The hydraulic tensioner is held on by two bolts this needs to be removed so you can retract it (compress it) until the holes line up and you place a nail or allen wrench in the hole to keep it lined up. you then bolt it back on motor and proceed to preset the tension on the pulley. I will try to find a picture or something.

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Oh.... OH haha now i get it, yes... hot tea FTW lol... This is probably why i cant line up the roller properly.... Ill try this tomorrow if the snow dies down in decent time.

Proto's link above shows it pretty well and a lot better then me trying to write it. lol!

A pair of bent angle needle nose pliers is my "special tool" for setting the eccentric pulley. The ones with a slight angle, not 90 degree work best and fit great in the 2 holes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

A pair of bent angle needle nose pliers is my "special tool" for setting the eccentric pulley. The ones with a slight angle, not 90 degree work best and fit great in the 2 holes.

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LOL I was wondering what the special tool was, but your post above clarified everything to me... its a shame i didn't read it correctly this morning cuz the car would have been running right now lol. Now i have to wait till the snow stops...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

A pair of bent angle needle nose pliers is my "special tool" for setting the eccentric pulley. The ones with a slight angle, not 90 degree work best and fit great in the 2 holes.

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I've done so many timing belts it made sense to buy the "special tool" its only $25 from a local tool supplier. I did use bent needle nose pliers prior to that

Try changing wp on a 95' ford festiva, now thats a pain.

It is much easier to work on than any BMW I've ever seen. Just saying...

i just replaced mines.... this how i did it... jack car up take wheel off. take the engine mount off take all ur belts off. then take the cover guard off... this point u have to take the tensioner and hydrolic off.... mark ur timing before u do all this so u dont throw ur timing off.... good thing about our cars are it lines up perfect theres notchs on both the cam shaft and the valve cover also on the crank.... its very simple if u take ur time do not rush it......

I have a question fellas.... what is the TDC(Top Dead Center) mark on the crank pulley?... Is it the two dots ? or the little chip on the edge of the pulley?

If it is the two dots whats the correct position for them to be TDC ?


Never mind, i found the answer. In the little chip on the edge of the pulley which has to align with a mark behind the cover.