Car stop while driving/changed ignition switch and dead @ on position

Here's the scenario: My wife was driving 2001 Galant (4 cyl), all the dashboard lights lit up and then car stopped. Had car towed home and would not start. Starter would spin but not engage. I then tested battery @ 12.54 and 10.7 w/load and then removed starter. Tested starter by connecting jumper cables from battery directly to starter. The gear popped up and spun which told me the starter was good, although I still took it to Pep Boys and they confirmed that it was good. Therefore I assumed it could be the ignition switch. After reinstalling the starter and installing a new ignition switch, now the car only has power in the ACC position. When I turn key to ON position the car goes completely dead as if there's a short somewhere, then I have to disconnect the positive battery cable again. After about 15 minutes, I reconnect the positive cable with the key in ACC position and I have power again until I turn the key. Does anyone have any suggestions, please?

DIESEL or PETROL? Check if there is any loose wire or connector on fuel system supplier. If u have short circuit symptoms, maybe there is any wire touching the engine... if not, maybe the ON -POSITION key relay damage or its wiring... means in ACC position relay still supply the electricity, for any reason ON position has fault of energy.
1st take a look and test the relay.
if not... well u must check the wiring or connectors.

cheers

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Remove and reinstall the ignition switch to start.

Also, pretty sure the ignition and ecu and immobilizer are tied together, so even if you do swap the ignition for another one, unless it uses your unique chipped key the car won't start anyway.

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Ok guys, got everything reinstalled...turned the (original) key to ON and got all the normal dashboard lights...turn to crank and everything does dead. My questions are does the new ignition switch need to be programmed to the key lock cylinder, and should I call a locksmith to program it?

The only person who can flash the ECU to work with a new switch and key is Mitsubishi. If you can find an open dealer you can get them to do it for around $100.

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Found out I had a loose ground wire. After tighting the ground wire, my Galant is back to cranking and not starting. So thankfully the ECU did not need programming, thanks to RedGalant2k1 for suggesting to remove & reinstall the ignition switch. So next I removed the gas cap to listen for the fuel pump coming on while wife turned key to ON position...and no noise. Now I want to check the fuel pump relay however the are no marking on it (also fuel tank is 3/4 full) before I assume its the fuel pump itself. Any suggestions, please?

Just read a previous thread suggesting to remove the fuel pressure regulator and check for fuel, replace and check again. If fuel comes out then the fuel pump is good. I'll check after eating...

The fuel pump relay is audible as well, and if you remove the cover can be operated manually

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The fuel pump relay is basically a four-pronged fuse, what do you mean it can be operated manually?

Too much trouble to remove the fuel pressure regulator so instead I removed the air intake and sprayed starting fluid directly into the throttle...still crank no start.

Sounds to me like you have a bad cam or crank angle sensor.

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Just found the problem is a broken timing belt after I had it towed to an auto shop. Mechanic said I need a new engine but gave no detailed reason. I'm waiting for more detailed diagnosis. Will keep y'all informed....

Ah yeah that will keep it from starting

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The issue with these engines is that they're interference engines, which means that more often than not when the timing belt breaks the valves and pistons are suddenly in the same location, which at the very minimum bends the valves and at the maximum craters the pistons. You at least need a new head. Although a junkyard engine will cost less to purchase and install.

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check your rpms if they fall below 500 rpm it is most like actually is the air control valve or you got bad gas