7G Rear Drum to Disk (4 lug to 5 lug)
First off let me say that if you do any of what i'm going to tell you it's at your own risk. It worked for me, but it possibly may not work for you.
Parts needed for conversion.
1. Rear Caliper and mounting brackets from 2g Eclipse or a GS Galant; you can get the calipers from the local auto parts store, but they don't sell the mounts, you'll need to check a dealer or a junk yard. You'll aslo need to get mounting bolts from the dealer.
2. Rear Disk Backing Plate and emergency break system; The emergency break system has been referred to as "drum in disk" in other posts. If you buy all the parts brand new from the dealer, (like i did) then you'll have to put this system together. I've never done anything like this before, so it took me about an hour to assemble the first one, and then 25 min to do the second.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_24_full.jpg
3. Break pads
4. Rear rotors
5. 5 lug hub assembly from 2g GST
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_22_full.jpg
There is another tutorial that talks about needing different Ebrake cables; the stock cables will fit so you don't need to buy e-brake cables like i did.
I also didn't need to buy any new brake lines or connectors. The system that connects to the drums wil also connect to the disks.
Tools needed.
Socket; 14mm. Wrench; 10 mm, 8mm open or closed end. Breaker or Cheater bars, Liquid wrench, A drill and bit large enough to help open the housing for the ebrake cable. And a Big Hammer. A cup or can for draining brake fluid. Blue thread locker. Pliers
1. Start by removing the wheels. (if you really needed that step, you should stop right now!!)
2. Make sure the E brake is not engaged, and then remove the drum cover.
3. Disconnect the brake line, 10 mm, and drain the brake fluid into you're can.
I would suggest using liquid wrench on all bolts after this point.
4. Using the 14mm, socket remove the bolts that hold the rear hub assembly in. you also might use the cheater or the breaker bar to get started.
5. When all bolts are removed, use your big hammer to "coax" the hub assembly and drum backing plate off.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_12_full.jpg
6. Find where the E-brake cable hooks into the arm that engages the e-brake. Seperate the drum pad from the backing plate and you'll see the tip of the ebrake cable. It has a squared tip that holds it in place. Using your pliers, pull the tip toward you and away from the arm.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_21_full.jpg
I actually just took the drum pad off. It makes it easier to get too.
Pull the cord far enough to lift the cable out of the bend in the arm. With the cable free you'll then have to get the cable housing out of the old backing plate. There is a small clip that holds it in place.
7. To get the old cable to fit into the new backing plate, you'll need to drill, sand, or whatever to make the cable housing in the new backing plate bigger. It doesn't have to be a lot, casue the cable almost fits, just enough to get the cable in.
8. The "drum in disk" e-brake system looks like a smaller version of the drum system you just disassembled. Connect the cable to the new arm in the same manner that it was connected in the drum. pliers (to figure out which plate goes to which side, the e-brake should enter the plate from the bottom front)
9. This is a where you would switch to the new hub assembly. You'll have to hold the hub and the backing plate up too the knuckle and get two bolts started. 14mm I was able to do this by myself, but if you need help get some one to hold it for you. I put two bolts in place just to hold it while i went back and put thread locker on the other two and tightened them down. then went back and thread locked the first two bolts.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...52_13_full.jpg
10. After putting the rotors on,mount the caliper to the backing plate using the mounting bolts. 14mm
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...652_3_full.jpg
11. You'll have to remove the clip that holds the brake line to the knuckle. 10 mm i think I just twisted the brake line to upside down to where the brake line would connect to the caliper. It should screw right in. Just make sure you get it tight enough to where the brake cable tip sets right against the tip inside the cailiper.
12. Bleed your brakes when you have completed both sides. 8mm At the time i did my brakes, i also switched the front from 4 to 5 lug, so i needed to bleed my whole system. I'm not sure if you need to bleed the whole system if you're just doing the rear, but i'm just going to suggest it.
I'll probably be making edits to this as time goes by, in the event that i have for gotten something.[img][/img]
