DIY $20 rear camber kit 7G/8g

Well after installing the AGX and the pro kit, I got the bad news that both front and rear cambers were way off. So I did a little of research and came up with this DIY which actually was what RRE had done to 3g eclipse. There is an article about that in Vfaq.com as well.

tools:
17mm wrench and socket
14mm wrench and socket
rachet


this is how it looked when I started

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0310.jpg

Unbolt the 4 14mm bolts that hold the the brackets to the body. /these bolts are no longer needed/. You'll need longer bolts, because youll have washers in between the brackets and the body, placing the control arm off of the body

here is a comparison

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0314.jpghttp://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0315.jpg

The differnce between the bolts is not only that the old one is shorter, but its also stronger 10.9 vs. 8.8 for the new bolt. Washer on the left (1/8 of an inch) I chose them to be a little wider than what is shown in the other tutorial, because itll reduce the stress on the bolts. This is what I bought from the hardware store today, it costed me around $20.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0313.jpg

I chose to install 6 washers on each bolt, and have another 3 for back up if Im not happy with the camber. So, just slide the washers between the bracket and the body, line them up with the hole and push the new bolt thru, and get a couple of threads in. MOve to the next untill youre finished with all four of them/per side/. This is how it should look:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0317.jpg

and ended up here :

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0319.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/HPIM0321.jpg

i did the same thing... worked like a charm on my 8g...

did you use washers and lock washers on the bolt head side of the install?

Also, since those bolts are not stainless, its a VERY VERY good idea to use antisieze on the threads.


lets see some more better pics of your car!!!!

did the same on mine, but have to adjust it the other way to get more negative camber cause of the new rims i put on, 19x 9 on the rear.

i used stainless with some red locktite.. and lock washer

I used 5 and yet to get an alignment but my camber is still very negative.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Proto

I used 5 and yet to get an alignment but my camber is still very negative.

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how can you say if its negative?

You can usually visually tell if there is negative camber. Like what John said...did you use a lock washer? I agree...put a little bit of antiseize on the bolts before you tighten up too. I will post pics of what I did tomorrow.

also, need to make sure the bolts are hard enough. i forget the hardness rating, but when i tried to do the DIY alternative a couple years ago all the bolts i found at home depot were not even close. Don't want those things popping off through a turn!

also, we gotta see some pics of your car man. these night shots taken by papparazzi photographers arn't doin' it for me....

The bolts need to be Grade 8.

I used grade 10 and I bought them from Autozone.

Were does the lock washer go? Behind the bolt head, or at the end of bolt after the washers?

behind the bolt head

what is the method used to add negative camber??

is there a nut on the other side holding the bolt in?or is it just screwed?

no nut, it screw it into the chassis. The nut is integrated/welded in it

mko,what kit of front camber kit do you have on your car?ball joint kind?and how much was it?

none so far, I need a couple more parts to finish my 5spd part list and then Ill get the camber kit

Due to the importance of this tutorial, can one of the mods please make this a sticky...

mko, which lowering springs did you get and how much inches lower is in the front?is the camber really noticeable?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EATsleepJDM

mko, which lowering springs did you get and how much inches lower is in the front?is the camber really noticeable?

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Eibach pro kit with AGX and lowers about 1.3 to 1.5 inches. I still havent had any problem with tire wear so far, but I havent driven long distance routes. When start driving back and forth to school, I will most def. get the camber kit.

the camber is barely noticeable?

for this camber kit,where would i be able to buy the screws that are higher then 9.0 strength?i checked the hardware nothing higher.would there be any at an auto store?

and about what dohcstuner said, where can i buy that spray for the screws as well?

Go to Autozone, I just got 10.9 bolts for my clutch. And if you mean where you can find antiseize grease - that would be any autoparts store.


some ppl say they can see the camber angle of the wheel, but I cant see it. What I can see is that the tires are not worn out.

alright.thanks alot man.

and thumbs up for the tutorial and your car.

sorry for the cuestion but, when i need to do this?

When you lower your car, your rear camber specs go to hell, so to get it back withing factory specs you place a certain quantity of washers(depends on how low is your drop) and the longer bolts. If you get your camber as close to factory as possible your car won't eat the tires on the inside.

Would anyone trust this to shave off -3.0 in the rear? It would need like almost an inch and half to to of washers and a really long bolt.

what are you currently at? You shouldn't go all the way to 0 degrees camber.

Its 2.9 in the rear. Why not 0?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oakrdrs187

Would anyone trust this to shave off -3.0 in the rear? It would need like almost an inch and half to to of washers and a really long bolt.

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No, dude the max camber I would correct with washers/shims is something around 1.25, also as beam says you don't need to go to 0, the shop I get my alignment at, told me that having around -1* is within spec but I trust tgc more so if anyone disagrees let me know.

The kit to correct serious camber should look something like this.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...0808009016.jpg
look for the Ingalls one
http://www.importcarpartsplus.com/3g...ion.htm#Camber Kits

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OMEGA PHX

No, dude the max camber I would correct with washers/shims is something around 1.25, also as beam says you don't need to go to 0, the shop I get my alignment at, told me that having around -1* is within spec but I trust tgc more so if anyone disagrees let me know.

The kit to correct serious camber should look something like this.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...0808009016.jpg
look for the Ingalls one
http://www.importcarpartsplus.com/3g...ion.htm#Camber Kits

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I don't think I've heard anyone talk about the Progress camber kit - I just purchased it from importcarpartsplus and its listed under the Ingalls stuff. Should they be just as good?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RayDub

I don't think I've heard anyone talk about the Progress camber kit - I just purchased it from importcarpartsplus and its listed under the Ingalls stuff. Should they be just as good?

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Yeah dude you should be good to go, and I talked about the ingalls because he said he wanted to correct -2+ degrees and ingalls has 2 different sets, I don't know how much camber you can correct with the progress one but I would assume around 1-1.25 degrees let us know when you install it.

Thanks for that link, What do you think about the SPC one right under the ingalls stuff?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OMEGA PHX

Yeah dude you should be good to go, and I talked about the ingalls because he said he wanted to correct -2+ degrees and ingalls has 2 different sets, I don't know how much camber you can correct with the progress one but I would assume around 1-1.25 degrees let us know when you install it.

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For sure, thanks. I'm waiting for my order from them with my AGXs. I have Megan springs so the drop is coming soon.

op can u re-up on the last two pics?

What about front camber bolts?

I guess i deleted them for PhotoBucket. It looks like it has washers under each bolt .