I owe this thread yet another thank you for the wiring information. Completely forgot which ones needed to be cut =)
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I owe this thread yet another thank you for the wiring information. Completely forgot which ones needed to be cut =)
My cruise works fine. I didn't connect the two wires on the harness like everybody else though. I ran them to the sensor that's on the front of the clutch pedal, so the they're jumped when the clutch pedal is depressed. But still, the ECU isn't reading anything from the transmission when cruise is on, so it should work fineQuote:
Originally Posted by beam514
hm... never thought about that... so the engine starts w/o the ecu thinking its in park or neutral?Quote:
Originally Posted by jmath99V6
Pin 9 and pin 10 on the park/neutral switch are only connected when you press down the clutch pedal. that way you can't start the engine without the clutch pressed down
u didnt wire anything to drive on the harness? so the cruise works w/o any pins being connected?
right. when clutch isn't pressed, like when I'm on the freeway, nothing is connected and the cruise works fine
awesome. thanks for the info! gonna have to do this when i have time
shoot, might have to do this when I get home. I don't like the wiring I did for pins 9 and 10 anyway.
i have a 02 gtz and im trying to see if i need any parts off the a/t for the 5spd swap???
When I get home, I'm going to try the cruise control mod.
nahh bro. I belive everything from the a/t comes off.Quote:
Originally Posted by galant1983
dont fuck it up. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by beam514
lol it will be really easy. I just need to extend the wires to the clutch pedal switch and voilaQuote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
has anyone ever noticed that we have an extra connector, right near where the clutch pedal bolts? It happens to fit this clutch depression switch, but stock, it's not connected to anything. It has a black w/ yellow wire and a black w/ white dots every 1" wire coming out of it. I wonder what it is attached to? Being that this car is A/T, but even has the place to mount a clutch master cylinder, I wonder if it is a "universal" wiring harness..
I don't have time to take apart my dash and go digging for these wires though.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/IMG_7627.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/IMG_7629.jpg
This is the switch I will be using. Shorts the circuit when it is not pushed, and opens the circuit when it is pushed in (clutch pedal is not depressed)
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/IMG_7630.jpg
update:
What I am doing is using the clutch pedal to short out pins 9 and 10, instead of hard-wiring them. I just tried it out. The car is not able to start when the clutch isn't depressed, and does start when the clutch is depressed.
HOWEVER, once the engine is running and I let off the clutch again (clutch pedal is not depressed), the idle freaks out and then I get a CEL. I haven't scanned it yet but I'm assuming it's going to have to do with the missing A/T solenoids.
I believe once the ECU thinks the car is out of Park/Neutral, it's going to be looking for a signal from those solenoids. If that is the case, I'd rather not have cruise control than have a CEL constantly.
just checked my DTC's, and it is:
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0750 Shift Solenoid A malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B malfunction
P0760 Shift Solenoid C malfunction
P0765 Shift Solenoid D malfunction
The idle does end up settling back down though.
hey im doing my swap now and i cant seem to figure out how to bolt up the clutch pedal and i cant figure out how to remove the old flywheel and clutch! someone please help me with step by step instruction on how to do both
Clutch pedal:
You have to cut out the 3 holes in the firewall (2 small bolt holes, 1 large for the Master Cylinder). It is hidden behind black padding/insulation. You also have to remove the insulation that is 90 degrees to the firewall, upside down. The clutch pedal bracket has 4 bolt holes, and make sure to bolt it by all of those holes, otherwise the firewall will flex and could crack when you're pressing down on the pedal.
Old clutch and flywheel: Do you mean the A/T driveplate and torque converter?
Refer to the 4 Cyl Manual swap thread for these things. They are very similar.
Just FYI, if you still want cruise control but don't want to constantly have the CEL, you can hook up pins 9 and 10 to a switch, and disconnect them whenever you want to use cruise control (say for a 3 hour drive). When you get to your destination or back home, you can clear your CELs (if you have the capability). Once you clear your CELs, make sure pins 9 and 10 are reconnected so it doesn't pop up again.
This also serves as a safety switch. Can't start the car if the switch is in the cruise control mode. I just tested it out and I'm pretty sure everything works out. Cleared the CEL and it didn't come back since it thinks it's in Park/Neutral again, so that's good.