7G 4g64 sohc mild turbo setup with the 2G auto tranny. Opinions !?

So I first plan on swapping out the F4A23 (stock transmission for a 7G galant with the 4G64 motor) for a F4A33 (stock transmission from a 2G dsm fwd turbo). Pretty much got the info on what's needed for the swap minus a few things (TCU).

I'd like to boost it and keep it automatic with the f4a33 tranny. Not really interested in making it a 5 speed. I want to be daily driver reliable and not looking to push the motor. 10 psi on small frame turbo MAX. Just want some extra power and retain reliability.

Here's the setup I was thinking on running. Any suggestions and tips are welcome !

450 cc dsm injectors w/ resistor pack ???
Evo 8/9 fuel pump with 2G stock fpr
Safc
Stock ecu
evo 3 manifold
14b or small 16g turbo at 7-10 psi max
Stock gst downpipe to 2.5" back
Dsm smic with piping setup w/ 1g bov
Battery relocation to fit an intake setup
Devils own methanol kit
Gauges


I figure at such low boost and the meth injection it should compensate for the need of large injectors, better tune, and allow me to use the stock ecu and base timing maps with no problems. I'll be shooting for 12s afr not looking to push this motor at all.

Compression and leak down shows its healthy still. Going to do a complete overhaul on gaskets and belts water pump etc before adding more power. Just wanted to hear what you guys think ?

Do you have an OBD2 or the hybrid OBD1.5 ecu?

Did you read through this yet? Lots of info: https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...7g-for-noobies

I have a 98 so yea it's an OBD2 and yea I've read through that link when it first came out and have owned 4 dsms and a 99 spyder gs 5 speed before. Wanted to boost that one to but never got the chance to. I know the 63t and 64 well, just never boosted the 64 yet. I know some differences with the spyder and 7g are battery location, distributor instead of a cas, and no coilpacks. Other than that they're exactly the same. Any advice if it'll be a better idea to just keep my stock auto and install the ipt clutches for the f4a33 into my existing f4a23 ? Or swap in the f4a33... or what I dread and do not want to do and go 5 speed. I want it dd for me and my gf, I already have a 99 gst 5 speed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4G64sleepin

I have a 98 so yea it's an OBD2 and yea I've read through that link when it first came out and have owned 4 dsms and a 99 spyder gs 5 speed before. Wanted to boost that one to but never got the chance to. I know the 63t and 64 well, just never boosted the 64 yet. I know some differences with the spyder and 7g are battery location, distributor instead of a cas, and no coilpacks. Other than that they're exactly the same. Any advice if it'll be a better idea to just keep my stock auto and install the ipt clutches for the f4a33 into my existing f4a23 ? Or swap in the f4a33... or what I dread and do not want to do and go 5 speed. I want it dd for me and my gf, I already have a 99 gst 5 speed.

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Can't give you my quote on that lol. I've yet to touch my engine and just wanted give you that link for info. Also I believe it should be easier since you do not have the hybrid ecu because I have trouble reading it.

I'm sure the other boosted 7G guys can give a answer on that better than me :)

Can't run a 2g FPR, lower pressure than our cars. Best bet it to get an adjustable for like a fuel lab or Aeromotive. Dsm 450s are fine, but you will need at least a 190 pump. You have a semi flash able computer but not sure the amount that rom is open. You won't need meth at all so don't worry about that. I still say to go with a slightly larger turbo. A 2.4 in an auto will spool a 14 constantly. It would not be fun almost always being in boost when cruising or light acceleration. A big 16g or even a sleeper 20g like I had on my single cam setup will be better for the auto. Slower spool helps with that auto take the load as well. You can always PM me as well

A^^^Yeah Thats a good read there. And he has a 98 7g (oBD2)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4G64sleepin

So I first plan on swapping out the F4A23 (stock transmission for a 7G galant with the 4G64 motor) for a F4A33 (stock transmission from a 2G dsm fwd turbo). Pretty much got the info on what's needed for the swap minus a few things (TCU).

I'd like to boost it and keep it automatic with the f4a33 tranny. Not really interested in making it a 5 speed. I want to be daily driver reliable and not looking to push the motor. 10 psi on small frame turbo MAX. Just want some extra power and retain reliability.

Here's the setup I was thinking on running. Any suggestions and tips are welcome !

450 cc dsm injectors w/ resistor pack ???
Evo 8/9 fuel pump with 2G stock fpr
Safc
Stock ecu
evo 3 manifold
14b or small 16g turbo at 7-10 psi max
Stock gst downpipe to 2.5" back
Dsm smic with piping setup w/ 1g bov
Battery relocation to fit an intake setup
Devils own methanol kit
Gauges


I figure at such low boost and the meth injection it should compensate for the need of large injectors, better tune, and allow me to use the stock ecu and base timing maps with no problems. I'll be shooting for 12s afr not looking to push this motor at all.

Compression and leak down shows its healthy still. Going to do a complete overhaul on gaskets and belts water pump etc before adding more power. Just wanted to hear what you guys think ?

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At least install this thing

http://www.roadsurge.com/product/3/S...-_With_buttons

You can switch back and forth between regular shifts and the shift box. It will allow you to shift it like a modern car lol.

Now onto boosting the engine:

Dont need evo 8/9 fuel pump - rewire stock pump, its good for about 15 psi
Dont need 2g fpr - you're gonna use stock Galant ECU and it needs to see 48-50 psi of fuel pressure, 2g fpr is at about 42-44 psi

I'd suggest using aftermarket 2.5'' downpipe and a high flow cat. Stock is 2g DP is small and it causes back pressure. Plus the engine CR is much higher now.

You dont need Alcohol injection (Dont even waste money on it). Its used after 30psi or so when the high octane gas doesnt have enough potency to keep combustion temps low and knock is very likely to occur.


Gauges - you only need boost, AFR wideband and maybe oil pressure gauges. You want to install the wideband sensor on the DP, before the flex pipe and you want to have electrical oil pressure gauge, not mechanical. Always have electric oil press sensors remotely installed


I see you want to use SAFC for tuning, well at least do it right. A boost referenced SAFC is way better for tuning. Now it corrects AFRs based on load(airflow) rather than throttle position. I ran my car with it and its much much better for the engine.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/boo...vement.440377/

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=SAFC...d%20on%20Boost

This is how you hook up the SAFC to a 97/98 ECU.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...an-SAFC-SAFCII

Lo throttle map - 39-41 across and going to 37-38 at 5,6 and 7k rpms.
High throttle map - 35 across and going 33-34 at 5,6 and 7k rpms.
Throttle NE points - you want to have more NE points between 3 and 5.5k rpms. This is where the turbo is boosting.
LO/Hi throttle switch points - Lo is set when the boost gauge reads zero and Hi is set when the boost gauge first hits your max set boost.(10psi)

Your AFRs should be in the low-mid 11s. Leave the 12s for Hondas.

Besides the water pump, I'd get racing balance shaft belt from Gates, HKS or Greddy, and OEM timing belt.

For all other small things, please refer to the thread mentioned above.

I like the evo 9 pump. It's direct fit and very quiet and is just about a 190. No rewire needed. $40 for one is nice when the items required for a rewire are about $20. The meth injection I have 3 kits 1 bnib all of them leftover from previous projects. It's in my opinion the most important part of the whole kit. Like you said it's going to keep the Temps way down especially since I plan on running a smic, reduces the threat of knock drastically, cleans the valves, pistons, and intake manifold up(carbon), and it's raising the 93 pump octane. Simple to install and I already own it, it's to me like having insurance on the motor. The turbo I could probably go with a 50trim or 20g setup but at 10lbs is pointless for those turbos you're no where near it's efficiency range. I'd have to run more boost which defeats my needs and purpose. Here would come ecu swap with link more fuel then a head swap etc etc... no thanks. 230 - 250 whp is my goal and still enough to pull on a few cars. The turbo setup I'm confident with piecing together. Hard to find setups on 2g/7g 4g64 sohc turbo setups. Not many pics of them.
I'd also like more advice on the choice of transmission. A 2G gst auto at 230whp should be more than enough and alot less headache. But if going manual is a must then I think I'd rather replace the end clutches that are in this f4a23 now and forget the turbo setup.

You can't fit a side mount. Unless u want to delete the evap canister and all the AC parts in that passenger front there. Run a front mount and be done with it.

Td05 20g is fine at 10psi. 50 trim way off the effieciency map there tho. You staying internally gated?

Look at my build for pics because I turbod the single cam first.

http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/ds...949df.jpg.html

http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps632d46f6.jpg


Here's a few pics of my 99 gst. This is my toy. I'm really not interested in a 5 speed swap, I already have this that I could swap the entire kit over to the galant and put a fp red or green which Is what I'd like to do. So yea info and more advice on the f4a33 auto swap and turbo setup with suggestions please !

So can you install gst end clutches into the galant transmission ? Like buy the kit from ipt for a gst and install it into the f4a23

No they are different.