you mean before the BOV right?Quote:
Originally Posted by laxinwarrior
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you mean before the BOV right?Quote:
Originally Posted by laxinwarrior
Sorry for the delayed response. And yes I was saying that the maf is designed to be plumbed in before the turbo and BOV and that is why your car won't run correctly unless you recirculate the air from the BOV.
I have added it to the list (GM MAF/Translator), and should have it within two weeks.
The car has been running fine, maybe because it is only 8.5psi it does not affect it as much. I am running 2 ½ inch piping with the 3 inch MAF maybe the flow is somehow controlled by the IC. But I could just imagine how my engine would handle the honeycomb material if sucked into the cylinder.
Thanks again for the info guys! Better now than a engine + MAFT later…
hey people can u help me to find a turbo for my 8g
Hey bro Congrats on the boost!! Im sorry to hear about your problem but it looks like your on your way... We have a similar setup and i think you will make the numbers your looking for and maybe more... What turbo are you running??? Also let me know what ECU Flash you did.. Im running an AFC NEO also and i Have JestrTuning working on my Ecu Flash but Around alot of forums they said the 8G couldnt be flashed cause it couldnt go past 100%.. I dont know too much about flashing but i would def appreciate the knowledge on your flash... My Main concern is retarding timing... I rather flash but if i see that flashing it wont get me much im switching over to AEM Fuel/Ignition controller.. Good luck
“What turbo are you running?”
JDM Motorsports (no name) T3/T4
A/R .42 compressor
A/R .48 turbine
38mm external wastegate 8.5lb spring
3G Eclipse turbo, tubular exhaust manifold
2 ½ in intake, 2 ½ in exhaust
I just received the REV-HARD casted EVO 8 manifold and am rebuilding a Hahn Racecraft Super 16G turbo.
“Also let me know what ECU Flash you did..”
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...antMapping.jpg
AFC NEO Throttle High/Low settings are Low-20% High -75%.
Fuel is increased at 2800 RPM and higher. From 1% up to 10% increase up to 6800 RPM depending on air temperatures (climate)/octane.
Boost is set to 9psi normally, but I have run 12psi to get an idea of the limits of the factory ECU.
“My Main concern is retarding timing”
I am using the APEX’i ITC (Ignition timing converter from Japan). It works great but causes a CEL on the cam/crank angle sensors due to a .3 volt variance. I use a jumper on the ITC harness to go to factory controls to get the emissions inspection, and do not WOT till I have it re-connected. I really do not need any major retarding, and actually advance the timing up to 3600 and work up to a -6deg at 7000 RPM. This all again, depends on the climate.
I feel some major factors of the factory ECU working in my case is the low boost, small compressor, 2 ½ in exhaust with catalyst and I keep it at 9.8 AFR at WOT.
Not going to dyno till the other manifold and turbo are installed and would really like to do the EVO ECU when it is all said and done.
I'm curious about how (or if) i have to retard/advance my cam when going turbo, or will i have to get a specific device to control the timing. :smt017
very nice.. Im excited to see what numbers u put out.. u gonna keep the t3/t4.. alot of guys dont get what they want out of the 16g.. Im hooking up with JestrTuning to Flash my Ecu for now and when i get home Im doing the 5spd Swap and going with the evo ecu.. Looks like your gonna put down nice numbers...Lets us know..
Sorry i didnt tell you about this sooner, but the revhard mani isnt gonna fit cory. you will need atleast 2x 1/2" spacers.
Aaron, have any of you guys had the chance to try the RevHard style DSM manifold but face the turbo towards the driver side?
i had a bad experience with revhard even getting my mani shipped. also, the mani has some slight casting cracks. I doubt I will try the dsm mani anymore. i have an xspower tubular t3 mani for a dsm on my car right now. not my first or 2nd choice, but i need to get my car running
That revhard mani is crap. I saw aarons yesturday and it had alot of cracks in the inner casting on the runners. Give it a couple of long highway pulls and they will start to go over to the outer casting.
btw aaron if you read this you sould be finishing your car :lol:
That guy is really good. He tuned one of my coworker Evo 9 mr with ecu flash and got 325awhp with just a intake filter, turbo back and ignition system. Evo dyno 240awhp in stock form so he was able to pull out 85awhp with just those mods. That's pretty impressive if you ask me. I'm going to see him in about 2 weeks with the talon :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Yeah he is really good and he also jacked up his rates crazy when he moved into his new shop. A basic dyno tune went from $300 to $600 in a matter of 2 months. Is it worth it sure if you dont know anyone else who can do it. Scott (awdpsi) is really good with AEM, he actually just left my house he was helping me work out my timing belt issues (god I wish I just kept the 2.0 and stock gears, no guess work!) He is extremely knowledgable in all aspects of tuning and he is an all around nice guy.
Spacer... Check! :smt023
Truthfully though, I still think the Rev Hard manifold is 10x better than the crap tubular manifold I am using now. I am actually suprised it did not crack yet...
Very true Scott is also very good but it sucks that he doesn't have a shop with a dyno so you can really fine tune your car. His rates are unbeatable thougg. Ocean parkway is basically his test and tune spot. Scott is also really good with gm maft and dsmlink. btw did you hear he made some mag this month :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
He actually wrote a small article in Super Street this month. Its the november issue, im going to buy it today and check it out. For Street Tuning yes Ocean Parkway is still his test and tune spot, but your also forgetting that No Limit has an AWD load bearing dyno now. Scott tunes cars over there often.