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http://socallifestyle.com/rear_disc_.../tutorial.html
all questions/comments welcome...fire away
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02/17/2009 - UPDATED!!!!! UPDATED---------
the tutorial has had information added regarding the necessary transfer of the 2G prop valve. this is an imperative addition!!
holy shit its Peano
Welcome back Peano!
Why you keep posting on TGC!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by QnzMostWanted
joking haha
O shit its Peano and Denver! Great write-up as always.
Peano Great tutorial!!! Going to think about doing this one this summer.
Good to see you back Matt and another great writeup like usual.
Nice to see you posting up again man :) Your tutorials always makes things seem so easy, thats why I did the 5speed swap.
What was the most difficult part ( 5speed swap = throwout bearing.) Anything like that, with this?
adjusting the e-brake to spec, simply because it's a lot of guess work. the manual says to open the adjuster enough to lock up the rear wheels, then go 3 clicks back. it says to spin it with a screwdriver through the hole in the "drum" part of the rear rotors. much easier said than done.....
great write up. came in handy when i did my swap a few days ago
Unless your frequently stopping from 150mph to like 45 mph (actual racing conditions) you do not need those drilled and slotted rotors, standard vented rotors will be just fine for you. The superior cooling of those rotors is designed for those extreme heat conditions to keep them under 600 degrees. Trying to stop with them from 45 mph can be a bitch becuase they don't heat up fast enough for the proper friction. Also, the rear brakes only do about 10 percent of your braking, which is why they used to just use drums becuase its more cost effective, and its a better parking brake, evidenced furthermore by the fact that even rear disc brake systems have internal drums for the parking brake.
the only advantage of rear disk brakes, is that they cool off better than drum brakes, and you have choise of different pads
Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
not just that, but they perform the same under all conditions. once drums heat up after a couple stops they don't brake hard.
also i have no abs, so even when my fronts lock the backs still stop the car, and they work better than the drums
Peano,
Great write up. What model/year are those brake parts and rotors from?
rotors are for 7G. all e-brake parts cross referenced from a GS
---UPDATED---
per the new proportioning valve discovery made in this thread:
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=30410
the tutorial has been upaded with a brief explanation on transfering over the 2G prop valve. this is a safety concern, and i strongly insist you perform this transplant before driving!
Good shit. Glad I was able to help.
Where did you get the rotors from? Just to have some more info for other members who want to stay with 4 hug pattern
i got them from ebay. they are of cquence brand. i looked them up read some good things about them. after u buy u specify the style u want and after that its 2 weeks for them to make them. they look good. install was very easy. i made the hole for the ebrake on the back of the backing plate bigger with a drill becouse it needs to be just a little bigger for the cable to fit correctly. now for the lines i looked locally on almost every auto parts i could find and no luck. i ended up buying some for a montero front lol