RIPP SDS FAQ
(Brought to you buy an actual SDS owner and installer :) )
I wanted to share some common things about the RIPP system that are brought up and scattered around the boards. Some info is good, some bad, some made up. I hope newbies benefit and get q/a from this as well. If the moderators are nice they might sticky this.
Overview:
RIPP is a private comany in NYC. I know the owner and most of the employees very well so I can vouch for their credibility. They are not crooks nor shady businessmen. They are a small company in terms of size but their product easily surpasses in terms of quality and durability that big names like Greddy and HKS. RIPP designs an awsome fabricated supercharger system for several platforms now. The back their product with warranty which i can vouch for as they have replaced 2 parts for me free of charge. I get and have gotten descent technical support from them, especially as of late. In earlier years than didnt have the manpower to get back to me ASAP but todays tech support def seems top notch.
Pre-requisites/common mistakes and tips for the SDS kits (Stage 1/2)
Headers:
You need headers. End of story. I would not recommend running stock manifolds on this car with boost for 5 minutes. They simply limit and detune you. They do not flow all that well especially compared to headers. They also cause your EGTS to be hotter. I have been there and done that already so dont attempt it unless you are bored. When I was stage 1, i had a night and day difference with running stock manifold and a set of crappy AMSS headers (old shorty style). Even those POS AMSS outperformed the stocker manifolds!
Buy headers in short. I have the RIPP stainless long tubers and they and pretty damn nice. I have seen success with Hytech and RPW as well but cant comment on their fitment.
Oxygen Sensors:
Install ALL 4 O2s in your car. You will have troubles hands down with the SDS if you dont. Sims are a no-no and hanging them out in the air is a bigger no-no. Get them installed anyway you have to. Secondly, a HUGE issue with O2 sensors and CEL / SES light popping is from improper and/or shorted out O2 sensors. Be very careful how and where you route the o2 lines and use MANY MANY zip ties. Many extended O2 wires also end up getting melted on the exhaust due to poor wire running and securing. Its not rocket science but it does require patience and time.
Catback:
With RIPP headers, most any factory 2000+ aftermarket catback will bolt up. a 1995-99 2G Eclipse GST FWD ONLY 3" catback will also fit our cars with minor modification. RRE sells a 3" Apexi modified for the 3G.
INSTALL TIPS
Pre Setup
Sometimes a kit goes out with missing parts, it happens. Like any kit or product, ensure you got your parts before you start.
Multi-task installs
Many installs run into trouble from other item installation errors. i.e., someone is installing headers + sds + new manifold + clutch + timing belt all at the same time and messes up one of the above and blames it on the SDS install. While experienced mechanics and race builders are able to multi task, i highly recommend that you do NOT if you are the weekend builder installing the SDS. The SDS is generally a bolt on. The install is not very complex and next to no customization is needed. However a 7 hr install posted on RIPPs site is not feasible by the weekend mechanic nor the professional tuner shop. That may be what RIPP can do it in but it should not be your goal. I recommend 2-3 days just for the SDS to ensure 100% time and quality. Get you header and clutch upgrades done before you install the SDS. It makes life much easier! If you fret at removing the intake plenum multiple times, this installation is NOT for you.
Plenum removal
- Get a 3/8 stubby ratchet. Getting to the plenum brace bolts is easiest with a stubby and leaning behind the car from the battery tray.
- Dont seperate the TB from the plenum, rather disconnect the throttle cable and the coolant lines. Replace the coolant line clamps (those bitching lil crimp clamps with smaller hose style clamps with screws. This will speed up future removals. I recommend you get a roll of painters tape, 1". Cover the lower intake manifold with painters tape. should take 2 strips. Why? I have seen way too many motors on this board blown up from a 1 cent washer falling into the lower intake manifold. I have seen professional shops do this as well. Very sad and easy to prevent. The lock washers on the studs are usually the culprit as people miss them in the removal. tape = $1, motor = $1000
Frame modication for washer fluid bottle
Dont do it. I dont recommend it. Rather, modify the washer bottle neck. Measure the neccessary plastic needed to shorten and cut a 45 angle in the middle of the neck. Take a heat gun and/or solder iron to fuse and mold the plastic and seal it. Finally take some silicone and seal the job. When done properly, the lid for the washer bottle will be below the pulley of the SDS and out of the way. It should open about 2/3 up. You can fill the washer fluid via funnel. Small price to pay for more power ;)/ If interested I could provide modified wash bottles for a nominal fee.
Black Box Installation
Solder your connections. No exception. Leave some reflief slack in the wires and tape them up with 3M Brand only electrical tape. Cheap tape is cheap and doesnt last long. Many installs result from a jacked up electrical install on this step.
Vac guage and leaks
You should be seeing -20 "Hg on your boost/vac guage. If you are seeing something like 0, -10 or -15 you have a vac leak. It will cause you stutter and fuel problems. To find it buy a can of starter fluid and spray in key location of suspected leak location (vac T and connections, bypass valve, mas, plenum gasket, etc) and listen for an audible change in engine pitch/rpm. This will indicate a leak into the system.
In-tank Fuel Pump installs
Simply, order a new grommet for the fuel pump and use it for the install. Seems most are crushed and split when they are re-used. Your fuel press guage should show you holding 15-20psi for a couple mins after shutdown A leaking grommet will result in poor fuel pressure under boost.
SDS Oil and lines
I run Castrol 10w30 full synthetic. It is recommended by Vortech. When running you oil lines, be cautios on how you route them and what the rub on. Again zip tie them every foot or so and place foam/rubber shielding on parts that may appear to rub over time. Preventative steps and time are well spent. In the oil feed connection of the Vortech blower is a small filter nozzle. It mists oil into the blower and needs cleaned as it traps dirt.
PCV Setup
It has come to my attention from troubleshooting that the PCV setup for the 3G is incorrect once you blow through the MAF. The rear breather setups on most SDS cars are pretty much pulling in ambient air. This is a source of unmetered air and I believe has and will cause tuning issues with the car, particuarly when its at part throttle. I recently have tried a new setup and am VERY pleased with my results. I am using Krankvents to accomplish this setup.
www.et-performance.com. The diagram below shows the modified setup. My vac readings before were always about -18. I also suffered from the dreaded lean part throttle tuning nightmare. After this mod my vacuum now reads -20 to -21 and the part throttle lean is vanished.
http://www.thefranchise.net/club3g/eclipse/pcvmod.jpg
The KEY to this mod is installation.
IF YOU INSTALL THIS BACKWARDS YOU WILL BLOW UP YOUR MOTOR AND/OR CATCH YOUR CAR ON FIRE This mod is very simple to do and take almost 5 mins. Be very dilligent on the install and verify the airflow. The overall picture is this. The rear bank breather line needs a check valve to ONLY allow airflow from the rear valve cover to the atmosphere or intake. The front breather with the PCV valve also needs a beefy CHECK valve in place to prevent boosted pressurized air flowing from the intake manifold to the front valve cover. Leave the factory breather line that vents and stabilized between the front and rear bank in place. This new setup will prevent un-metered air from entering the engine, increase vaccum and prevent pressurization of the crankcase. I ended up tapping a 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb fitting in my upper intake pipe after the MAS. You could also leave it plummed into the air filter.
UPGRADES
Methanol & Water Injection kits:
They work. The SRT4 guys are all over this modification. Our system operates on a linear spray boost controller that introduces meth at ~ 4psi and tops to 100% pump power at 12psi. It is fully adjustable for tweaking. Some Vortech kits out there use FMICs. It is possible to use. Vortech recommends using A2W ICs for this reason. Methanol/Water injection is a 3rd alternative. I still would like to see a PWR A2W IC plumbed into this setup.
Where to get Methanol/Water :
Buy BOOST JUICE!
http://www.snowperformance.net/prodd...prod=40060%2DD
Its a 49% / 51% mix, the max legal mix you can have and still be deemed non-flammable. Anything more and you'd be held liable in an accident for improper storage of a flammable. Its also pure and contains no chemicals found in wiper fluid that can be bad on electrical parts.
Manifold Swaps:
Manifold swaps are a popular mod with SDS kits cause they generally increase the boost available several PSI. The best manifold seems to be the Diamante manifold from 99-02 VRX models. The next best choice is the 2003-2005 Eclipse GTS manifold. The swaps are slightly involved, more or less depending on the manifold you get and if it comes with all the sensors and what not. I did a good write up on whats required for the GTS intake install on a GT model.
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531
INFO
Custom Kits:
You'll find many people on here complain about RIPPs kit yet they a) Dont own a kit or b) dont do anything to modify their kit to prove it can be done better. RIPP actually sells a tuner kit just for the this. I cant remember though anyone who has built a reliable setup yet out of it. However if you feel you know what your doing, how to do it, and got the $, this is the kit for you. The kit includes everything needed for bolt on of the blower, you just add the fuel and management system the way you want. Overall its a very reasonable price for what you get.
Blownup Motors:
RIPP kits when installed properly do not blow up motors. I have never seen a stage 1 or 2 kit installed by RIPP blow up a car. If it has happened I am unaware. Almost every failure I know of so far has been from mechanical failure pre-existing, user error (i.e. running into fuel cut with the automatic), or installation error (improper BB install, improper fuel system install)
SES Lights:
Running the RIPP brat and BB should throw no codes. I havent thrown a code for almost a year with this setup. Without the BRAT, the only light you should throw time to time is the P105 code, this is from the baro circuit reading excessive pressure from boost, since it was never designed to see it. If the car runs for 15 mins without seeing boost (15 mins is about how long the initial obd2 scan takes) you wont see the light for that drive. A fix is in testing i believe on wiring the baro to the black box to limit the sensor voltage output. If you are throwing conistent P0300 or P030x you have a fuel problem as this is not a normal code.
Cold Starts:
Do not run your car hard until it is warm. it straight out isnt healthy for it. vortech also doesnt recommend running a blower with cold oil. operating temperature is required before vehicle operation. starting the car and blowing down the road in 5 secs is asking for problems.
Links for additional help and info:
www.rippmods.com
www.vortechsuperchargers.com
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...streetfile.pdf - Vortech Owners Guide
www.rceng.com
MY 3G SDS -
www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1120
DISCLAIMER
This information is based on my own research and experience with the RIPP SDS. It is not authorized by RIPP nor am I claiming to be any spokesman for them. I am just giving the truth and personal opinions as necessary. I am writing this on my own behalf for all the people on and offline that PM me, email me or just wanted to know. Please do not fill this thread with countersinfo on why a turbo is better, why RIPP sucks, why the sky is blue, etc. If you have counter info make your own post. If you have productive info, feel free to share. Thanks!
