either the JL Audio Subwoofer models W3, W6 and W7 would kick some a$$ when it comes to bass!! not to mention Kicker L7's and L5's are also great!!
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either the JL Audio Subwoofer models W3, W6 and W7 would kick some a$$ when it comes to bass!! not to mention Kicker L7's and L5's are also great!!
i have one 12 inch l7 thats also 2 ohms. get teh kx850.2 or the zx850.2. bridge whichever one you get and ull be good. but if you really want a lil bit more then go for teh monoblocked 1000 watt kicker. u shouldnt mix subs with amps like get teh same brand subs as amp.
If your headlights/interior lights are dimming, it is an indication that your drawing more current than your charging system (alternator) can supply. Factory alternators are designed to supply only enough current for the factory equipped power accessories on your car and dont leave enough headroom for additional power accessories (aftermarket electronics). It could also be that your amp gain is not set correctly, which will definitely cause dimming due to the effects of clipping. Capacitors and additional batteries help relieve this demand for current but they have their place depending on the situation. In the long run, the "full-proof" way to remedy this is to upgrade your alternator to one that supplys efficient amps for your demands. This is a hard topic to explain in a paragraph and I would recommend online reading if it is a serious issue to you (which it should be. Check out www.bcae1.com)....Based on th amp you have, I would almost guarentee it is your gain settings though....There are a few tutorials online on how to adequately set your gain (i.e. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=30) and how to calculate current draw from your amps. Ive seen a lot of people treat there gain as a volume knob because they felt like there bass was not loud enough....which again leads to trouble. Like I said, my amp is capable of ~1200-1400W, but my speaker doesn't see nearly that amount of wattage b/c of my gain settings...which means no dimming. Doing some reading is the only way you'll get a real understanding of this topic...and it is a very important one when dealing with aftermarket systemsQuote:
Originally Posted by galantgtz36
:?: I realized I really didn't answer your specific question though. The first question I would ask is how did you go about setting your gains on the sony amp? If you already have a cap and are using the sony amp, I'm sure upgrading the cap will not eliminate the dimming. Im pretty sure that specific amp doesn't produce a lot of RMS wattage, but if your gains are not properly set than you could be producing a clipped signal which could easily cause the dimming. I can not help but stress properly setting your gain before you waste any money on buying a cap and experiencing the same results....besides, setting your gains is free(if you have a DMM) and it allows you to determine how much current your amp will draw based on your charging system supply. You bass wont be as loud after properly setting the gains on the sony amp, but at this point you start to think about upgrading the amp which brings us back to your original question...Quote:
Originally Posted by galantgtz36
iight change of plans, i wanna feel more bass so this is wut im gonna get
1 kicker zx 1500 for 2 kicker 12 inch L7's (2ohm subs)
tsunami 2 farad cap
..or should i just stick with kickerzx1000 for 2 L7's?
and are mono amps bad for powering 2 subs?
monoblock amps are fine for 2 subs
as for which one, the zx1000.1 will put out the perfect power for two l7s, but the zx1500.1 will put out a little more than needed. you can use it, but will need to make sure you adjust gains right or you risk blowing the subs
If you wont some serious bass, you need to go w/ Memphis.
I had 2 12" subs w/a 1200 watt JL Audio amp and nobody around here could
stand up next to it!
Ideally, the zx1500.1 would be a perfect match for two 4ohm 12" L7's, but like nycking23 and myself said...its all about how you use your gain. Im sure you will not be able to push a full 1500 watts with a stock alternator without damaging something unless you keep the volume at a minimum level. I would trying thinking about how much wattage you can use with a stock alternator and then choosing your subs according to that limit...not the other way around
What happens if i use my 500k farad scosche capacitor with a kicker zx1000.1 amp? should i get the tsunami 2 farad capacitor or the 5 farad one?
also will a kicker zx1000.1 amp be a good match for two mtx 8512-44 subs? my friend has mtx subs and those things jus drop bass and pound haaardddd
i have a Pioneer AVIC-D3 headunit that connects to a JL 1000/1 amp which pushes two Alpine Type-R's and those are only rated at 500 RMS. A JL 1000/1 will surely push your L7 like none other. it's rated at 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms so you're golden. Also look into the MTX Audio 1501 amp. it's also 1000W RMS and i've heard it with a W7 and it hits clean and hard! If your going to use subs like L7's go nothing less than a class D amplifier. thats what i recommend
with some rockford fosgate apm, you'll be set!
i doubt the zx1000 will power 2 L7's good. I have a zx1000 hooked up to one L7 dvc 4 ohm and its weak. the installation place put the gain low and nothin, so i have the gain at 3 quarters now and its not poundin like an L7 should. The dude said it was wired at 2 ohms so i dunno im going with mtx 7500's or 8500's to try something new.
i concure with a lot of this. class D amps are the most efficient amps, but are bad for SQ, but L7's aren't built for SQ. but one thing to keep in mind, you don't need to match your RMS of your subs and amp up. the wattage on the subs just mean the heat it can handle. so you can hook up a 3000 watt amp to a 1000 watt sub and it will still function perfectly and not kill the sub, as long as you set it up properly.
is the kicker in the kicker box? then if it is, leave it in there. maybe put some insulation in there.