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Thread: ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES

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  1. #1
    8GSERVICEMANUAL
    Guest

    ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES

    ENGINE PERFORMANCE
    Engine performance problems include concerns of “rough idle,” “lack of power,” “excessive fuel consumption,” or “does not run.” Following the diagnostic procedure, you have verified the concern, eliminated the obvious, analyzed the possibilities, and prioritized the possibilities. Now is the time to perform the inspection, but which diagnostic tests are you going to use?

    • Eliminate the possibility of fuel and ignition problems.
    • Verify timing belt integrity and valve timing.
    • Intake manifold vacuum test: this test is a quick and easy indicator of in-cylinder problems. Will not tell you which cylinder, but may discriminate between valves, piston rings, intake leaks or exhaust malfunctions.
    • Cylinder power balance test: this test is quick and easy when using MUT II to perform. Will not point to the type of problem, but will indicate a weak cylinder. Combining results from the above two tests should tell you which cylinder has trouble and what kind of trouble it might be.
    • Compression test: this test will provide direct information about cylinder condition. A wet compression test will verify piston ring problems.
    • Cylinder leakage test: this test will point more specifically to the problem than all of the other tests, but can be time consuming.

    ENGINE LEAKAGE

    Engine leaks can occur wherever oil or coolant are located. Many times leaks are obvious and require little more than a visual inspection to find. There are procedures to follow for the “not so obvious” leaks.

    External Oil Leaks
    • Clean the leak area thoroughly and run the engine.
    • When viewing from underneath, trace the leak if possible to point of origin. Leaks always move downward, and as the vehicle is driven, to the rear.
    • Be sure to check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. If the system is not functioning correctly or if the engine has excessive blow-by, the crankcase will pressurize and “push” oil through seals and joints.
    • Really tough to find leaks can be found through the addition of dye.

    External Coolant Leaks
    • With the engine cool, perform a coolant pressure test. Pressurize system to normal operating pressure for 2 minutes (specification can be found in the Service Manual). If gauge drops, you have a leak. Small leaks may be found through the addition of dye.
    • If coolant is not found underhood, be sure to check the heater core.

    Internal Coolant Leaks
    • Check engine oil for contamination. If contaminated, either the head gasket or a casting has failed.
    • Check automatic transmission fluid for contamination. If contaminated, the transmission cooler, located in the radiator, is leaking.
    • Check for white smoke from exhaust when running. If white “sweet smelling” smoke is present, the head gasket or castings have failed.

    The spark plug from the affected cylinder will look very clean relative to the others. If a head gasket leak is small, you may not notice white smoke. Use the block checker at this point to determine if combustion gases are present in the cooling system. The block checker will tell you if there is an internal leak, but will not tell you where.

    ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE
    Abnormal engine noises can be caused by component failure or a lack of oil pressure, leading to a component failure. Subtle noises can be amplified using a mechanics stethoscope.

    • A ticking or light rapping sound located in the valve cover area could be caused by automatic valve lash adjusters. This noise is heard at a frequency that is 1/2 crankshaft RPM. Engine load does not affect the noise. Do not confuse this noise with fuel injector operation.
    • Crankshaft bearing noises caused by excessive clearance are heard as deep metallic knocks. Noise is loudest under load, acceleration, or when the engine is just started. May be accompanied by low oil pressure which can be checked with an oil pressure gauge.
    • Connecting rod noise caused by excessive clearance is heard as a light metallic rapping noise under light loads. Noise and frequency increase with engine speed. Can be isolated using MUT II by cancelling out the cylinder. Noise will substantially decrease with the cylinder shorted out.
    • Piston “slap” is caused by excessive piston to cylinder clearance. This is a dull metallic rattle at idle and under light loads. Noise may disappear as the engine warms up and the piston expands. Affected cylinder can be located with MUT II by shorting out the cylinder.

    Keep in mind that noises might be coming from a source other than inside the engine. Belts, air conditioning compressors, timing belt idlers and alternators can all make noise.

    ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION
    Oil consumption problems may be a “non-problem” on a new engine that has not been broken in. A new engine may consume some oil for the first 1000 miles until the piston rings and other components have “worn in”. Per TSB 96-11-005, oil consumption of 1 quart or less per 1000 miles is acceptable. General Procedures Follow TSB 96-11-005 procedures which may incorporate the following:

    • Follow the procedure to locate and then eliminate external oil leaks.
    • Inspect spark plugs for an indication of internal leakage.
    • Inspect exhaust color for blue smoke.
    • Perform a compression test if necessary.
    • Follow procedure for cylinder leakage test if necessary.

    The two prone areas for internal oil leakage to the combustion chamber are: piston rings and valve guides/seals. Excessive blue smoke during high vacuum conditions such as deceleration usually indicates excessive valve guide to valve clearance. If nothing is indicated, you should change the oil and precisely fill the crankcase. Have the customer visit every 500 miles to check consumption.

    SMOKING EXHAUST
    Abnormal smoke in the exhaust indicates the presence of something other than the proper ratio of air/fuel
    burning in the combustion chamber. Smoke and related diagnostics can be classified by color or tint:

    White Puffy Smoke
    Disappears when engine warms up. This is water Cold Weather vapor, caused by condensation burning off as the exhaust system and catalytic converter reach operating temperature. This is a normal condition.

    Black Smoke
    This is carbon caused by an excessively rich fuel mixture. Exhaust may smell like rotten eggs if the catalytic converter is functioning. Fuel system needs to be diagnosed.

    Blue/Grey Smoke
    This is engine oil being burned in the combustion chamber. Follow the procedures for abnormal oil consumption.

    White, Pungent Smoke
    Vehicle may look like a crop duster. This is engine coolant burning. Follow procedures for internal coolant leaks.

  2. #2
    mstoni2009
    Guest

    coil pack

    I own a 2002 mits galant es,I've been experiencing low idling and i have replaced the spark plugs,1 coil pack,spark plug wires,and my serice engine light was on i had the codes rread and it was saying that i had an emission control leak,i had the hose replaced an im still having some issues.N ow the service engine code is saying to replace the other coil pack,and its misfiring on 2-4 plugs.My question this happened to any other mits owners?

  3. #3
    i own a 2002 mitsubishi es and a little over a week ago i had a mis fire in cylinder1 and friday i changed all the spark plugs and wires and cole packs. when i tried to start it had major issues i got the computers tested and it sayed mis fire num 3. so i cleaned all the fuel ejections. it made a dirrerance but still not there. But i found out theres a recall for the 2002 galants es. and tom im calling the 1800 num and tell them whats going on and see if its what the recall was for. and if it whats causing everything to go crazy im taking to the closes dealer and they should fix it for free and my car only has 70,000mls on it. my friends and i cant figure it out

  4. #4
    got my car running but its better than ever

  5. #5
    what did they do to fix the issue?

  6. #6
    ISMASG90
    Guest
    My Galant 2002 ES is "wasting" a lot of gas, it's a 4 cilinder, but its consuming gas like a v6. Doeas anyone knows how many miles does your car runs with full tank (plus gas)

  7. #7
    red4g64
    Guest
    Make sure to update us on the coil and plug problem! i've been having the same thing happen to me. My car eats a set of plugs up in 3 months! It will run great after i change them and then just start miss firing again after that time period. I'm also getting the miss fire codes. So let us know what you find out.

  8. #8
    I have a problem my car when i start it runs for a little bit then shuts of the fuse engine 13 pops every time please i need help is my only car

  9. #9
    Ryan79
    Guest
    guys i need help desperately. im residing in South Africa and are probably the only vr4 owner around.
    my car is over fueling heavy. when it starts up in the morning it starts with smoke smelling like fuel and then idles ok for a while after a while it start missing and then switches off. any idea what it could be?

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