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Thread: 4G63T swaps check in here!!!

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  1. #21
    I think going with 1G ECU and harness will be most doable, and safer too Thanks for the heads up Sabzi on the flywheel, so... which one would do the trick :?:

  2. #22
    Boosted 4G63T galant
    Guest
    Hey Bro, Speaking from Experence. The 2G ECU (95) it the one to use. Use the Stock Galant Harness and run 9 wires. Your Done. You will have ALOT of work to use the 1 G ECU. I have a 95 2G ECU and a 1G Motor ( no crank walk :-) ). Thye 2G Motor will drop right in, but the 1 G you ahev to mod the Motor mounts, and Timing cover. I run a Galant Tranny ( From Level 10, stage 3 about $5800) Are you. If you get a VR4 JDM motor, do yourself a favor and get yourself a USDM 1 G intake. The Cyclone Intake Suck major ass. Any question drop me a line. My car runs great, 11 lbs all day ever day. It's not to fast off the line but VERY DEADLY on a ROLL ON. :shock:

  3. #23
    sethmo
    Guest
    Yah I have read a FAQ on how to get the Cyclone intake mani functioning w/o the JDM ECU and I am going to try to get it to work before I swap it out. The duel runnners give a little more low end torque if they are working properly

  4. #24
    $5800 for a level10??? :shock: a fully built TRE or john shepherd racing trans would have been considerably cheaper, you may even have been able to go awd with the leftover money, ouch.

    1g ecu wiring is not that much harder, i'm in louisiana without my car right now so i can't tell you how many wires it is, but it's not as hard as you seem to think.. that said, i think i may convert back to 7g wiring or 2g wiring but only because i am considering a '95 ecu and dsmlink

  5. #25
    Boosted 4G63T galant
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sabzi5858)</div><div class='quotemain'>$5800 for a level10??? :shock: Â*</div>

    Yea I know! THat is with the billit Converter, and Shafts. I is hould up well under 11 psi so far. I am waiting till tommorw night to put on my Fuel pressure Regulator. Then HELLO 16-18psi!!!! :twisted:

  6. #26
    to those that have used the 7g wiring harness: does the harness have provisions(connectors) for the power transistor, coilpack, cam angle sensor, and knock sensor? i am currently looking to go to a '95 ecu and ditch the '90 so i would like to know if i should get a 7g harness or just go for a 2g harness. thanks.

  7. #27
    sethmo
    Guest
    No, No, and No 8)

    Stick with the 7g harness, add the wires needed. The plugs on the 7g harness plug directly into a 2g ecu. Just have to add the knock sensor wire, ect. Go read JiPs site:

    http://www.wraithnet.net/jip/

    [Edit]
    Doh, it is down as of right now...

  8. #28
    that's right, my friend just told me that the 7g's harness fits right in with a 95 2g ECU and a little mod to add some wires for sensors, etc

  9. #29
    crap:evil: anyone knows of a good site of JDM engines selling 2g 4G63t, cuz my friend just sold his for $1200 (he needed the money) besides it was 90-94 and i don't want to waste anymore time and money modding the motor mounts.

  10. #30
    sethmo
    Guest
    Why would you want a 2g engine ::boggles my mind::

  11. #31
    well seth, according to Boosted's "experience," the 2g engine will "drop" right in instead of a 1g motor, care to lighten me on this :?:

  12. #32
    well, considering how old the engine will likely be, you will most probably want to do a timing belt change before installing the engine. while you are in there, you can just unbolt the motor mount, take it to a machine shop, and do the rest of the install. (read: magnusmotorsports.com look in the tech articles for 1g in a 2g) all the shop has to do is grind down the mount a bit, should cost no more than $15. i believe they only charged me around $5-$10 when i had it done. definitely worth it to not have crankwalk on your mind all the time.

  13. #33
    yeah, seth just told me that, but that's the least of my worries tho, i don't have a shop to do my swap and don't know how much it will run me and how good if i take it to a shop :evil: Any guys there in NYC willing to help a fellow 7g rider out? :?:

  14. #34
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Galant95)</div><div class='quotemain'>yeah, seth just told me that, but that's the least of my worries tho, i don't have a shop to do my swap and don't know how much it will run me and how good if i take it to a shop Â*:evil: Â*Any guys there in NYC willing to help a fellow 7g rider out? Â* :?:</div>

    Where in nyc do u live?
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  15. #35
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    What are you people talkin about?? Engine mounts were never listed as a possible cause for crankwalk. Magnus as well as most people think the oil squirters are the culprit.

    And for modding the mount...if you have an angle grinder you can do it yourself.

    But its way to much of a hassle I think to get a 1g engine to work with a 2g ecu. You have 2 choices basically Magnus way of using a simulated crank signal wich leads to CEL every 5 minutes for random misfires or modifying the frontcase to accept a 2g style crank sensor, major work, if not done correctly, major problems.

    See: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6bolt...otorinstall.htm


    BTW I posted my ecu section of my site up here for now:
    http://jipownz.topcities.com/ecuswap.htm
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  16. #36
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>What are you people talkin about?? Engine mounts were never listed as a possible cause for crankwalk. Magnus as well as most people think the oil squirters are the culprit. </div>

    !?!??! who said anything about engine mounts causing crank walk?? the discussion is whether modding the mount is worth it to put in a 1g engine and save the hassle of worrying about crank walk, instead of being able to just drop in the 2g engine, but then having to worry about crank walk.

    as for the cam sensor differences, i have heard different cases having different results, some working, some not so well. sorry, i forgot about that because i was planning on dsmlink and not having to worry about it at all. but reading through the instructions on magnus' website, they mention this problem and also an apparent fix for it. also, according to magnus:

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.</div>

    suggesting that this problem only occurs with a 2g head and 1g engine.

  17. #37
    hey JiP, but sabzi's right man! We were just talking about the advantage of a 2g engine that fit's perfectly on a 7g but known for crankwalk, and having a 1g engine that's better with some minor mod on the motor mounts. As for the Cam Angle Sensor, hopefully there would'nt be any misfire on mine when i go w/ my swapping By the way, i'm in LI Hicksville JiP.

  18. #38
    sethmo
    Guest
    there isnt any real misfires, just the code that needs to be reset

  19. #39
    Boosted 4G63T galant
    Guest
    I have a 95 2G ECu and a 91 JDM VR-4 motor. I have no problems with it. You are correct in that the Drivers side mount needs to be modded ( A angle grind with work), also the timing cover too. But as was stated before CHANGE the TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP no matter what, before you put the motor in.

    Galant95,
    In my "experience" the 1G is worth the extra hassle.
    1G+have larger intake runners, strong bottom end.
    2G=CRANKWALK

    THere reason the one G will not "Dropin" in the motormounts and timing cover.

    The search button will help you out there to.

  20. #40
    I am going w/ a 1g JDM 4G63t motor & use a 2g ECU. Motor mount & timing cover modification will be easy, should cost me only $15 at most to grind and cut respectively. Changing the timing belt and water pump as well should be quick. It's only the labor of getting my motor out and putting the new one that worries me since i don't have a shop. But thanks for the help guys

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