4G63T swaps check in here!!!

[sethmo]

so boosted you used the stock automatic motor mount? i took my mount off my engine and tried to line it up with my jdm 6gvr4 and there are only 2 holes where as my mount has 3???

[JiP]

Sorry about the confusion...thats what happens when you read a screen at 8 feet away while sitting in bed with a wireless keyboard =

thought u said u live in nyc, LI is not part of NYC! I wish they would throw SI out of nyc too!

As for the misfires I think Seth is right, I dont think the engine is actually misfiring, but the ecu assumes it is because its not getting the correct crank signal. Not a problem if u could live with the CEL's Or you could always get DSMlink and turn that error code off permanently.

Other then that, the rest of the sensors and what not should work fine with the 2g ecu. I think there was a difference in knock sensors ? If so you may have to swap out the 1g knock with the 2g version. If your ecu doesnt read the signal correctly its gonna yank all your timing and ull be as slow as a turtle on takeoff's


Engine side of things, Sabzi n Boosted are correct, 1g is better overall option. Tranny mount is the same?

[Galant95]

I used to live in NYC, Queens specifically, but temporarily moved to boring LI.. as far as i'm concerned i still live in queens since most of my times being spent are there.

Anyway, do you guys know which flywheel would best fit to a 5sp?
Sabzi brought it up that our 7g has a bigger one than the 2g w/ awd train?

[sabzi5858]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>Tranny mount is the same?</div>

you can't use a 1g tranny because it doesn't have the front or rear mount on the tranny, they have them on the engine. the only mount on the engine that we use is the driver's side mount, and the diff between 1g and 2g there has been explained.

oh, and guys, while you are in there, you should probably window-weld your motor mounts, or get prothane inserts for your mounts, it does a lot to help alleviate wheel hop at a minimal cost in vibration.

as for the flywheel, get a FWD flywheel for however many flywheel bolts your engine has, 6-bolt or 7-bolt. if you have a 7-bolt, you can use the galant flywheel as it is the same thing. it is also a good time to upgrade your clutch to an ACT 2100 or 2600. if you decide to do this, make SURE to get the flywheel resurfaced to the right spec's. you can look in roadraceengineering.com 's tech articles to find this.

[Boosted 4G63T galant]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sethmo)</div><div class='quotemain'>so boosted you used the stock automatic motor mount? Â*i took my mount off my engine and tried to line it up with my jdm 6gvr4 and there are only 2 holes where as my mount has 3???</div>
Stock mounts thru out, Well execpt for the Drivers side Motor mount. That had to be grinded some to get it to fit.

[sethmo]

So your driver side mount looked like mine? And on the '63t side?

4g64 Mount


4g63t



So what did you do about that?

[sabzi5858]

you are suppoed to use the mount off of the 7g

[JiP]

That the way I run mine, But I am havign problem with my Tach right now..
:oops:

Dude I had the same problem when I first swapped. Simple fix, get your hands on a 1g coilpack that has the Tachadapter box at the bottom. Its early 1gs. Wire up that tachadapter and hook it to the tach line and stop using the tach signal output of the power transistor and you'll be back on track. Galant tach dont like the DIS signal output.

That has my tach on exact same reading as my Logger and SAFC2. Before the logger would read the cars actual tach (comes from the crank sensor NOT the tach signal, so the loggers reading is the actual RPM) and my guage tach would be like off and nothing would fix it. Now its all good. Or you could try an MSD Tachadapter but its like 50 bucks i think, i got 1g coils with the adapter for $20 off ebay, and resold the coils without the tachbox for $25 lol

[sethmo]

I couldnt really tell from Magnus' site about the motor mount that needed trimming. But this is what needs to be trimmed off correct? Seems like if it was trimmed off the motor mount will clear the water pump just fine.


Magnus' Pic




Am I correct or do I need hit in the head a few times?

[sabzi5858]

yep, you basically have to just get rid of that bolt hole that you circled.

[sethmo]

And the modding to the timing cover is obvious. Now I need to figure out my wiring, get a few more parts and Im set.

Just put on my Evo 3 exhaust mainfold, evo 3 02 housing, and new gaskets. Should be good to go soon 8)

[sethmo]

What did you guys do for 02 sensors? I have a 1g turbo 02 sensor, but only one. I know 2g/7g setup uses 2. Should I just get an 02 simulator?

Also for tranny mounts, I find out that 2/3 of the auto tranny mounts are different than the 5spd. The front and top mount bolt on fine, but the rear wont bolt on at all. Are 2g mounts the same?

[Boosted 4G63T galant]

I use a O2 in the front and a sim in the rear. I do most of my tunign on a Dyno with Wide band. the front 02 does a good job around town. I can help you with the 5 spped aspect, I'm runnig a Auto.

[sethmo]

I finally got around to grinding the enginen mount today, but I am stuck. I grinded enought for it to pass the water pump, but 2 of the bolt holes do not line up. And the arm will not allow the mount to move over to the left anymore:





Anyone have similar problems?

[JiP]

I think if you just look at the picture the answer to lining up your bolt holes is obvious...you didnt grind enough. You have to grind deeper in so that the holes will line..cut this out..

[sethmo]

Well it doesnt look like that piece is preventing it from moving. It is this piece:

[sabzi5858]

2G Engine mount (modified) use 2G engine mount trimmed, with 1G tensioner arm

you are using the 1g tensioner arm, auto tensioner, and water pump, right?

[sethmo]

I tried the 1g tensioner arm but it still didnt line up right. Ill trim more off and see how it goes tomorrow...

[JiP]

I cant tell whats what witout a pic of that whole side. A close up of a specific area its hard to tell what i'm looking at. From the 2 pics, it looks like the tensioner is hitting one part...but that piece doesnt look like its got anything to do with the mount?

Your bolt holes in the mount arent lining up becuase they look just off as if the mount isnt pushed up enough wich I would say grind more off so you can move it up. What is the tensioner hitting? What model parts are you using?

[sethmo]

Ok I got it. I cut more off the 7g auto mount like JiP said then bolted it on w/o the tensionor arm. After the mount bolted on, I bolted on the 1g tensionor arm and everything lined up great. Ahhhh on to the next project...