Ok, I know there's some holes that need to be filled to cover the void left by missing sensors, but the big gloop in the center rectangle in the manifold side of the TB is my question.
If you do the coolant bypass, does this fill-in still need to be done?
First one: Red 88 - 245whp/312wtq - HIN: Nightshift - Chicago '07 WINNER
Second one: Durban 88 - Buckskin - SHP - Auto - Sold to more capable hands
Next one: White 84 flatty - t3/t4 - VELNAS - More to come
"...Remember: Don't crush 'em, restore 'em!"
No it does not. I filled my hole with JB weld but had a small leak so I bypassed the coolant to the TB. About a month or 2 after I did this, my IAC motor died and I had a high idle at 2k on warm starts. Not sure if it was because of the bypass, or it was just its time to go...
Ok I was the first to do it and know all the ins n outs =D...No it will not have to be filled.
Seth used JB Weld which is not a good idea because it wont create a good seal. You have to use RTV so that it will squoosh together in between the 2 parts and seal well.
As for his IAC dying, just its time, the motor is not affected by the different TB, or the area that needs to be filled so it was just a fluke. I ran with my TB mod for about a year with absolutely no problems what so ever. So have many other people, so I wouldnt be worried about IAC dying.
If you do not fill the passage and do the coolant bypass, keep in mind if you live in cold climate you will have trouble starting the car, and trouble keeping it idling while it is warming up.
My next project is going to be removing the ISC all together. Couple guys on 4g64 have done it, and it looks promising.
Rob
--------------------------------------------
rIp 97 Galant
starting over.
90 Talon
Idk, I had mine bypassed this winter and I live in Iowa. My IAC was working fine and my car started up perfectly every time. Idled fine too, till the IAC died.
My car is weird though...
Well, I live in CT and in the winter we get temps down around zero or the occasional below zero... how cold did it get near you Seth?
It seems to me it's basically a personal preference... either do the bypass OR fill the hole, correct?
From what everyone has told me who has done bypass come cold weather they were having major trouble with idle and startup. Also, I am starting to believe that Seths IAC died because it was pushing to hard to control the idle from having the coolant bypass and probably a BISS that wasnt propperly adjusted.
But I havnt dont it myself so I cant say for sure, I did have it bypassed for a couple days while the RTV dried and didnt have any problems with the car, but it was hot summer.
Its not all that much work n time to remove the TB so I guess run with the bypass, if your having trouble, yank it off and fill the chanel and plug the coolant lines back in..no biggie.
Personaly I would go with the bypass first and see if it runs fine the leave it alone.
Rob
--------------------------------------------
rIp 97 Galant
starting over.
90 Talon
Question #2:
Damn screws don't move. Is it bad if I have to dremel the bastards off?
Question #3:
This mani is gorgeous. I see a few extra bolt places. Is there anything here I gotta plug/get rid of? Looks to be off of a Spyder, BTW...
First one: Red 88 - 245whp/312wtq - HIN: Nightshift - Chicago '07 WINNER
Second one: Durban 88 - Buckskin - SHP - Auto - Sold to more capable hands
Next one: White 84 flatty - t3/t4 - VELNAS - More to come
"...Remember: Don't crush 'em, restore 'em!"
I hear you on that one Maz. The fricking screws won't move for nothing :x
when is we gon be free????
Yah I dremelled mine off to. And what manifold are we talking about?
Intake. I'll try and take pics of it tonite.
First one: Red 88 - 245whp/312wtq - HIN: Nightshift - Chicago '07 WINNER
Second one: Durban 88 - Buckskin - SHP - Auto - Sold to more capable hands
Next one: White 84 flatty - t3/t4 - VELNAS - More to come
"...Remember: Don't crush 'em, restore 'em!"
The trcik to removing tough screws is putting all your weight directly down on the screw driver and turning, and they crack loose. If possible an easier method for lightweight dudes is to take a pair of pliars and grab the head of the screw and give it a turn, it will crack loose.
Rob
--------------------------------------------
rIp 97 Galant
starting over.
90 Talon
Well coolant bypass is now in effect. Only been a couple days drivin with it but so far so good. Next step is to junk the ISC all together.
Rob
--------------------------------------------
rIp 97 Galant
starting over.
90 Talon
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well coolant bypass is now in effect. Â*Only been a couple days drivin with it but so far so good. Â*Next step is to junk the ISC all together.</div>
Welcome back 8)
when is we gon be free????
the screw being so damn tight is going to be a bi*ch to get off. when a screw is so tight, be careful that you dont break the head off the screw. that hapened to me, on my spare engine when i was trying to get some stuff off, and a screw broke. be careful
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