DOHC Pics - headswap

[JiP]

Finally got around to takin some pics of my engine bay after the headswap if anyones interested.

http://jipownz.topcities.com/dohcpics.htm

If that says its down then:

http://www28.brinkster.com/jipownz/dohcpics.htm

[sethmo]

Very very clean man! How did you paint your head like that? or is it powdercoated?

Finally glad to see that you have put that ole valve cover to use. Bout time!

[JiP]

I've been DOHC since Oct 2003... I just stoped posting on tgc for a long time while I was working like a nutjob. Now I'm just trying to tune this sucker but I suck at using an AFC.

Paint is just 1500deg spray paint from any autostore. I find that the 1500 deg paint sticks better then 500, and regular spray paint for areas where you'll must likely scratch it up quick. the water pipe and fuel rail are just regular spray paint, it holds up fine to the heat. Manifold of course is 1500 as well.

I dont have an ISC hooked up, or EVAP equiptment, OR EGR, oR cats, Or PCV. The evap purge solenoid I now have hooked up to a switch, so that I can raise the idle ~200rpm by turning it on alowing air to flow from the intake tube (3-4" reducer) to the manifold. This way if I have any trouble ever with the A/C turned on since I have no ISC to bump the rpms to take up the load, I could flick the switch and not worry. Luckily, the car runs fine with the A/C and stereo blasting still idles at 800rpm. 860ish with it all off. I set my idle with the BISS and then thats that.

[krazienluv10]

very nice... some thing to motivate me...

[Evofreak7]

im wondering what that would be like boosted. :shock:

[peanotation]

JiP, looks great man

let me riddle you this though: how hard was it to swap out. think i could do it with my ratchet and socket set? hehe, i'm curious as to how much of a pain in the ass this will be, and what i'll need to do this.

[JiP]

I posted this a few times...hard to say. I know all the ins and outs because I have done it twice before on Moosh's car. The first time I helped moosh and another guy, the second time was just Moosh and I and we swapped in less then 6hrs. Its really a simple job as far as im concerned, I guess it depends how well you know the engine and whats going on. The problem comes when you start to sit there and think about OMG what the hell am I doing what if it dont start? lol

Thats where all the stress comes in the wondering is it gona work or did you just do all this work for nothing. My car is in major need of profesional tuning cause I dont know what the hell I'm doing in the upper end.

a guy on 4g64 on yahoogroups just dynod his car DOHC swap still NA around 130hp before real tuning, on the second run had a coolant leak and didnt get to see the numbers they shut him down. The guys at Forced Performance where he dyno'd estimated another 20hp still waiting to be freed by proper tuning. IIRC the NA SOHC dyno'd at 110 from Curt S.

[evil-G-nius]

That was gonna be my question, was it a noticable hp gain? Now how much did it cost? Did you get use parts from an eclipse or were you able to find a GS head. Oh the other thing is what else is needed? New ecu, fuel rail...I mean I know it is not just as simple as switching heads. Could you post a parts list?

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(evil-G-nius (aka Kimya))</div><div class='quotemain'>That was gonna be my question, was it a noticable hp gain? Now how much did it cost? Did you get use parts from an eclipse or were you able to find a GS head. Oh the other thing is what else is needed? New ecu, fuel rail...I mean I know it is not just as simple as switching heads. Could you post a parts list?</div>

do i smell a summer project?

[Moosh]

This swap is not a simple swap but I will write some information for those who are interested. I'll post up Travis Turner's parts list because he disappeared, and I'll try to give you tips on how to do this easier.

[JiP]

I dont have a parts list. You need a 1g or 2g head with all the internals and cams and gears. I used the 1g gears and advanced them half a tooth, or if you want you can get the GS gears for about $20 each. You advance the timing on teh 1g/2g gears so that the timing matches that of the GS. You all should know by now I am a cheap bastard and I do whatever I can to save cash...so saved 40 by using the gears that came with my head.

Your choice wether or not to send the head to a shop to cleaned and rebuilt. I didn't I pulled it apart myself whipped out the calipers and measured everything I possibly could and compared it with mitsu manuals and all my parts measured up to be good, so I put it back together with new valve seals. You'd be better off sending it to a shop, but its pricey.

You also need ALL the parts on the head, head, fuel rail, valve cover, intake manifold, TB, ISC, belt covers (if you use them I dont), front water pipe for the year head your using 1g./2g (2g may be same as 4g64), fuel injectors and resistor pack.

You WILL have to change ecu's because of our distributer, cant use it need to go DIS. I swapped to a 95 Eprom ecu so I could get dsmlink in the future. If you do that your gonna need ECU, 450cc injectors and resistor pack, coilpacks, knock sensor, powertransistor and tachadapter either MSD or the one off the 89-90coilpack.

Now that lead to some major tuning issues for me, cause I had the old 5knob AFC..bad idea. I dropped the 450cc and put in the 390cc from the A/T Turbo instead and things got a bit beter. You cant use the 270cc it just wont work, maybe it will work if you set the afc +40%...but I dont know. Anyway I got an SAFC2 finally and that solved almost all my problems car is very zippy now I just dont know how to tune the high end well.

MOOSH on the other hand has opted for an easier choice, using the SPyder 4g64 ECU. You will still need coilpacks, power transistor, but u can use ur stock injectors and then no need to wire in the resistor pack, and no knock sensor to install. That saves some cash depending how much you get the ecu for, as well as a lot of wiring and no need to worry about tuning it. Hell you dont really need the AFC then, however an AFC will make a huge difference in your power for ANY MOD including intake filter. Moosh has just put the spyder ecu in, and is running it in the stock SOHC he has 2 cel's 1 for IAC and 1 for EGR. Our 7gs dont have EGR so ignoring that, the IAC for the spyder is similar to the 1g/2g ISC but when your swapping heads your puting the 1g/2g TB and ISC on anyway so its all good, (according to moosh, but he hasnt tried it yet).

I did the ecu swap about 4-5 months before the headswap. I was drivin the SOHC for a long time with that ecu. I suggest doing the ecu swap first and making sure it starts up and runs for a week to make sure you did all the wiring correctly and what not. You dont want to swap heads and then do the wiring and then if it dont start have to wonder is it electrical or mechanical problem...plan ahead.

Lastly...Cam sensors. You'll need a 1g or 2g cam sensor depending wich generation you choose you will have to swap wires on the coilpack. I decided to go with the most reliable of all the sensor models the 97+ style wich is almost identicle to the Spyder sensor but just miniature to fit the DOHC head. You have to drill and tap the intake camshaft to screw in the sensor trigger cylendar they drill very easily, soft metal. You'll have to get the cam sensor outside case, triger cyl, and sensor itself. I bought the case and cyl for like $10 from Concielli mitsu, and the sensor itself I got off Moosh I think who got it from the guy who first did his head.

I never got aruond to doing a full write up, But I think one of these days I may publish a manual with all the ins and outs of the swap with a million pictures and full step by step =D

[evil-G-nius]

Wow thats a lot of shit! How bout just a list, no descriptions. And yes Matt it just may be a summer project...maybe. :twisted:

[krazienluv10]

i would like to do this but im giving up on performance in general for my car...the smog check ive been doing for the past couple months made me seriously reconsider even touching my engine even more :cry: ohhh well i hate california!!!! :evil: :evil: :evil:

[evil-G-nius]

Trust me Jersey is worse!They check other things besides the emissions! I failed inspection before I left because I had and air horn, sport muffler (not very loud), tinted windows, and my favorite, fog lights that have a LENS with a bluish tint! Not to mention the fact that at the damn lights didnt even work at the time of the inspection! ANYWAY, how bout that itemized parts list with no descriptions! I wann print that out so I can do some research

[phizz2k]

yo quick question guys.....what did you guys do about those extra water holes in the block....How did you plug them up???

[JiP]

There are no extra water holes.

They are OIL holes =D

Drain holes at that so they arent under any pressure and who cares about them. You only need to coverthem so that particles dont fall in and contaminate your oil. What I did was the "Travis Method". Take a can of soda and cut it open, cut out pieces large enough to cover the hole, use a SMALL AMOUNT of RTV on them and stickem down over the hole, put the headgasket on over them, and the head down over that.

You could get all fancy and get freeze plugs, or tap the holes and install threaded hex plugs....but why spend the time or money.

Rob

[Galant95]

this is a good summer project rather than going all out with 63t swapping.

anyway, do you guys know if this major materials needed for head swapping would work?

1G head (DOHC) w/ all the internals
2G ECU (turbo or n/a)

i mean, of course i'm missing something else, but i was doing couple of searches on the forum, but found no specifics.

JiP, maybe you could help a fellow New Yorker out

[StreetDreams]

I am doing the same swap in a 95. The 1g head is the best one to use as it flows better than the 2g. But as I recently found out, thanks to sabzi and jip, the galant wiring harness will not plug into the 2g ecu. And, in my opinion, it would not be worth hacking into the galant harness to make it work. You can read why in the 4g63 head swap question post.

[JiP]

this is a good summer project rather than going all out with 63t swapping.

anyway, do you guys know if this major materials needed for head swapping would work?

1G head (DOHC) w/ all the internals
2G ECU (turbo or n/a)

i mean, of course i'm missing something else, but i was doing couple of searches on the forum, but found no specifics.

JiP, maybe you could help a fellow New Yorker out

Where in ny?

2g ECU you need the turbo version cause the NA version isnt a 4g63 its the 420a.. Plus you want the knock sensor feature of the turbo version already there for you if/when you go turbo.

There is a lot more to it then just geting a head and ecu, lot of other little components for the ecu swap. And then theres the belt side of things, and if you have around 60k on your motor and have never changed water pumps now would be the time to do it, things like that to consider.