The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: turbo question ( I think this is a new one)

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Showing results 21 to 40 of 43
  1. #21
    brandon
    Guest
    The EPROM ECU would be beneficial if you plan on using DSMLink in the future. Otherwise the cheaper option is to buy a non-EPROM 2G ECU.

  2. #22
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    I have the 95 eprom its the shit. It doesnt show certain CELS wich is nice like EGR, and ISC...it will light a cel for IDLE problem, but not if you disconect the ISC like I did, no worries about having to install resistors and all that crap. All in all it works just like the rest except when it comes to lightin the cel. and since its Eprom its easier to get dsm link.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  3. #23
    94gntturbo219
    Guest
    ok, nother question yet again. I got an offer for an O2 sensor, what I'll need, and he's offering it at a good price, but it doesn't come with a plug, now it going into the galant, is that useful to me or not? if so, where do I locate a plug? thanks for the info

  4. #24
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    Word on the street is that all the o2 sensors are the same turbo or non tubro there is no difference in acuracy or function, depending what model you buy the wires are long to reach the connector since the turbo o2 housing is further away then the non turbo model downpipes. So you can just use your current one and lengthen your wires.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  5. #25
    Experienced TGC Member Blue Ice's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-31-2002
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    1,244
    if i get a 1gen gst with ecu and mas, will those be that ecu work for my 94 galant?

  6. #26
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-20-2003
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    3,169
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Ice
    if i get a 1gen gst with ecu and mas, will those be that ecu work for my 94 galant?
    Nope...1gs run on OB1 ECU's and not to mention the plugs are different. 7g and 2g Eclipse use OB2 ECU's.

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  7. #27
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    It will work if you want to go through a week long hassel of redoing all the wiring. But its not worth it. Also Im pretty sure a 2g mas/4g64 mas is considered an upgrade for the 1g mas so I dont think you will need that.

    Also keep in mind you WILL need to install a knock sensor and run the wire for that to the ecu, and that is model specific 1g ecu must use a 1g knock sensor, 2g ecu must use a 2g knock sensor.

    Personaly I think the 2g ecu is a much better choice, easier install, though the obd1 has some nifty features for tuning that obd2 dont have.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  8. #28
    the 95 eprom doesn't just make it easier to get dsmlink, right now, it's the only way to get dsmlink. they are working on a 1g version of dsmlink, for which you will need a 1g eprom ecu for. you always need an eprom to swap in any chip in the dsm world as far as i know.

    i feel sorry for you, stuck with a '94 and the '94 wiring harness to go with it. you will probably have a hard time wiring no matter which ecu you choose. i know this because i bought a '94 wiring harness on accident, and man is it a pain to do anything with. the '94 harness only has 3 ecu connectors, but they don't match the 1g ecu, and the 2g ecu has 4 connectors. this means either you get a 1g ecu + harness, and use parts of both harnesses (this is what i did originally, and it was a LOT easier than what i've done now). the other choice is to get a 2g ecu, completely rewire loads of crap, including a LOT of the ecu connector, as well as having to find the small 4th connector that your harness is missing, and wiring that in, plus wiring in the knock sensor, and power transistor/coils. on top of that, some extra stuff has to be done at the ecu in terms of wiring. this is what i have done, and it is not fun! the harness is very shaky (you better be damn good at soldering flexible joints) and stuff has had to be redone over and over because my joints were too brittle and became intermittent. not to mention, soldering 15 year old wiring isn't exactly fun either.

    the only thing i never got working with the 1g ecu was the speedometer. i'm not sure if the ecu has anything to do with its signal to the gauges, but i didn't put much thought or time into it. with the 2g ecu i now have the speedo back, but i am having other problems. for example, i can't datalog past 3800rpm because of electrical interference (this has the dsmlink guys stumped for now, we're still trying to figure it out, but they do think it's ignition noise). there is a whole lot of solder in that wiring harness, and quite a few new wires had to be ran. the '94 harness also doesn't seem to have the two generator inputs.

    so basically, either way you're screwed, there's a lot of work. you better get some books (ie wiring diagrams for both harnesses that you wish to integrate) and get to reading.

    advantage of 1g ecu is you can read knock (makes tuning a whole lot easier) and you get stronger timing. the 2g ecu has weaker timing. problem is that i don't know if you can get your speed sensor working.

    advantage of 2g ecu is dsmlink. that's the only 1 i can think of, and it's a pretty big one if you're gonna take that route. another thing, the 2g ecu has an input for speed, so even when the 1g version comes out, it may not give speed, which i think is a pretty cool feature, plus it enables many other things, such as the stutterbox launch and speed based nitrous controls. there is quite a bit of stuff based on speed, so i don't know ho they're gonna factor that in on the 1g version, but they have told me that the 1g version is almost ready to be released.

    and as jip said, the 2g mas is an upgrade to the 1g mas, but you'll need to have some type of fuel management (ie s-afc) to compensate for the difference in readings. otherwise you will run too lean.

  9. #29
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    Damn thats some post!

    I forgot the earlier 7gs are screwy wiring wise..good luck with that.

    As for SAFC you should be installing one anyway if your planning to turbo up, even if you were a stock factory eclipse GST you should still install an SAFC !! Its my best friend =D
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  10. #30
    brandon
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>Word on the street is that all the o2 sensors are the same turbo or non tubro there is no difference in acuracy or function, depending what model you buy the wires are long to reach the connector since the turbo o2 housing is further away then the non turbo model downpipes. Â*So you can just use your current one and lengthen your wires.</div>

    I actually don't even have to lengthen any wires. The O2 sensor reaches around the front of the turbo with plenty of clearance and plugs right in.

    That reminds me, Rob... have you done the 2nd O2 sensor removal? I had a couple questions about what resistor/capacitor to buy.

  11. #31
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    You wanna know somethin funy...I have no cats on the car, and even when I was stock SOHC stock 4g64 ecu, I never threw a CEL for the second o2 sensor. My 2nd o2 sensor pretty much follows the same output as the first o2 sensor but just at a slightly lower voltage and I guess its low enough that the ecu dont care. I defintly have some exhaust leaks that helps too =D
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  12. #32
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    Whats your question..im an EE, by diploma anyway, that was a waste of 4 yrs =D

    Resistor 1M, cap 1uf.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  13. #33
    94gntturbo219
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brandon)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>Word on the street is that all the o2 sensors are the same turbo or non tubro there is no difference in acuracy or function, depending what model you buy the wires are long to reach the connector since the turbo o2 housing is further away then the non turbo model downpipes. Â*So you can just use your current one and lengthen your wires.</div>

    I actually don't even have to lengthen any wires. The O2 sensor reaches around the front of the turbo with plenty of clearance and plugs right in.

    That reminds me, Rob... have you done the 2nd O2 sensor removal? I had a couple questions about what resistor/capacitor to buy.</div>

    I was under the impression I'd have to buy a 2G O2 sensor for the swap, so you basically are saying I don't, that I can just use my stock one on the galant? My G is a 94 if that makes a difference

  14. #34
    sethmo
    Guest
    I wish I would have known that before I bought a new 2g 02 sensor for $90...

  15. #35
    94gntturbo219
    Guest
    Is it the second O2 sensor that's behind the catalic converter ( on the g)? I think that's what it is cause I started the dismantling of my engine today and got to the exhaust and say the sensor sticking out of the pipe just behind the converter. By the way, what size wrench does it need to get that out? I don't think I have one large enough and I'd rather not go out and buy a set for one large one that I need. Thanks

  16. #36
    sethmo
    Guest
    Not sure what it is, maybe 14mm? I forget. Ill tell you on Monday when I go home hah

  17. #37
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    you need an Oxygen Sensor Socket, special deep socket with a slit in it for the o2 wire to hang through while you remove it. And your gona need a breaker bar cause that sucker aint gona budge.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  18. #38
    94gntturbo219
    Guest
    So I need to go out and buy one socket just for this O2 sensor and will never use it for anything else? :?
    Now is that universal, as in I can use it on other O2 sensors? Cause that will make me feel a little better to find it will have more than a 1-2 time use and probably spend 10 dollars on a single socket. Oh well, it's off to Sears for me...

    While I'm at it, during the swap( 64 to 63T), are there any other miscelanious bolts that require a special socket or wrench to get them off?
    Oh yea, a breaker bar is useful, I've been using another wrench, using the hole on the first wrench and positioning it at an angel so it grabs and gives me some leverage, it's about time I get one.

  19. #39
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    01-10-2003
    Location
    BROOKLYN nYC
    Posts
    1,570
    You could try to use a wide crecent wrench but I can almost guarantee the car will be laughing at you while you strip the o2 sensor. Make sure u use plenty of penetrating oil those suckers are like welded on.

    And yes the socket will work on any o2 sensor, a regular socket will NOT work because of the wire on the o2 sensor u would have to dremel out a slot in any reglar socket u bought.
    Rob
    --------------------------------------------
    rIp 97 Galant
    starting over.
    90 Talon

  20. #40
    94gntturbo219
    Guest
    Well, Unfortunately, I bought the socket, and a long ass breaker bar, and STILL couldn't get that damn O2 sensor off ( and I was starting to strip it.) So I cut it and am going to get the rest of the exhaust off tomorrow and take it off when I have open space to get a good hold and downforce on it. It was the secondary cat, I'll still have to get the primary off, I just unplugged it from it's position on the exhust pipe before the flex pipe. I heard somewhere on here but I can't find it, that you can bypass the second O2 sensor when swaping, is that true?

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •