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Thread: Turbo Help

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  1. #21
    the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) will be on the drivers side, as stated. it is to maintain pressure in the fuel rail to supply the fuel injectors with adequate fuel pressure. it is not to restrict flow to the injectors, as it would do if it were before the fuel rail.

    a fuel pressure gauge (or gauge sender for an elecronic gauge) will be mount anywhere before the FPR (or on it if it has a port). popular places to mount are on the fuel filter, on the fuel supply line (between filter and fuel rail), on the fuel rail (risky, rail needs to be machined), or on the FPR. the B&M gauge goes on the filter, it replaces the banjo bolt, and is a mechanical gauge. you can only read it from the engine bay. the bolt it uses to replace the banjo bolt is also suspected to cause a restriction in the fuel path. i have replaced the stock fuel filter, and the supply line up to the fuel rail with SS braided hose, and have a gauge port installed in the line. i have an electronic gauge installed, this way, i can watch fuel pressure while driving. if you want advice on how to do this, ask.

  2. #22
    98galant
    Guest
    where can i get braided fuel lines to install the fpr? Are the 2ng gen injectors from eclipse turbo 450cc direct bolt on or needs mod? Is the fuel pump on galants in fuel tank or outside, is it hard to replace? i post some pics later today to show what i have so far....

  3. #23
    98galant
    Guest
    here are some pics still need to sand and powdercoat the piping...
    http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2x7ri/

  4. #24
    http://www.autoalchemy.com/ has the adapter for the fuel rail to attatch AN fittings.

    keep in mind that SS fuel hose is very expensive. you should be able to get it just about anywhere, especially hotrodding and muscle car places, like ramchargers, maybe summit racing, jeg's, etc. you can use earl's or other AN fittings which should also be available there, or from surplus.

    the injectors are bolt-ons, but you will need an s-afc or similar device to manage them. or upgrade to the 2g ECU. i can't really tell how big the turbo is, but if you're not going to run a lot of boost, you should be fine with 450's. i'm going to assume that your bottom end is stock, and so you probably will not be pushing much boost. infact, you better not push a lot of boost, because i can already tell that you don't know how to tune. the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, go to vfaq.com and look for the procedure for fuel pumps in a 2g FWD, it is very similar to ours.

    are you using the stock MAF? (air metering sensor) i would appreciate it if you started answering more of my questions, it is very frustrating trying to help you when you are only responding to half of what i'm saying. i hope you are reading more than half of what you encounter, or you might end up with "half" of a turbo setup.

    let me just say something to anyone thinking about a turbo setup.. it is not just a "bolt-on" affair in that you can just bolt a bunch of crap to your engine and expect it to run good. the biggest part of being fast is tuning. if you can't tune for crap, you aren't going to run for crap. my car is a pretty good example of this, a 13.8@108 is crappy tuning for my setup (as well as crappy driving/no traction). if you want to get your money's worth, tuning is the biggest part of the recipe. not to mention, it can prevent your engine from experiencing catastrophic failure. and if you're going to do something wrong, give it too much fuel like i did, not too little, too little will kill an engine much quicker than pretty much anything short of starving it of oil or cooling.

    choose your turbo setup. this will dictate what fuel upgrades you need. the bigger the turbo(ie. the more air you will be pushing into the engine), the more fuel you will need to be able to feed the engine.

    decide on your method of tuning. this will depend on your setup. if you are running 450s with the 2g ecu, an s-afc should be adequate, because you shouldn't have to make too large of adjustments. but if you're going to run 750s, don't make the mistake i did, and think you can get away with just an s-afc.

  5. #25
    brandon
    Guest
    As I mentioned already above, you will need to wire in the resistor pack when installing the new injectors.

    Yes, the SS fuel hose can be found at Summit, but it will cost a lot. Buddy of mine is using SS hose for EVERYTHING. Crazy expensive I tell ya.

    98galant, PLEASE read through the http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/4G64/ and http://www.dsmtuners.com forums. Research and knowledge is key.

  6. #26
    yeah, sorry about that, like brandon said, you will need to wire in the resistor pack for any eclipse injectors. JIP has posted a tutorial for wiring in a 2g head, it also contains how to wire in the resistor pack, look in the 7g performance section for the post about changing the wiring.

  7. #27
    98galant
    Guest
    any body has a pic of a resistor pack so i know what it looks like.. I will go to junk yard for turbo injectors from 2g eclipse and resistor pack..
    Also would this work http://www.7453217467431.com/products/prod...D=1089236854140 look under universal accessories they say they are universal high impedence and i found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ame=rvi%3A1%3A1

  8. #28
    brandon
    Guest
    www.mitsubishigraveyard.com is a good place to get stuff. I bought a lot of my parts from them. Also try www.dsmtrader.com

    The ebay link is what you want though.

    Here's a pic of my resistor pack:


  9. #29
    98galant
    Guest

    Apex-i S-AFC II

    how hard is it to install Apex-i S-AFC II and set it up????

  10. #30
    98galant
    Guest
    The walbro 255 fuel pump is it for eclipse 1g or 2g or it does not matter??? How hard to install it?

  11. #31
    brandon
    Guest
    I emailed you about the S-AFC... it really isn't difficult at all to install. You can follow Seth's tutorial in the 7G performance forum, and since you have a '98, the diagram should match exactly as far as pin #s and such.

    Just make sure you solder everything and you should be good to go. Also, for your RPM signal, you should tap the crank sensor (learned that from Jip).

    Also, for the fuel pump, you'll want the 2G setup.

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