who's done the 5spd swap for the 7G?

[peanotation]

Alright, enough time wasted already. I want to swap a 5spd into my car and do it during the 3 weeks I have off in december, so I need to get my ass in gear and start getting parts/research done. Who's done the swap on here? Where did you read how to do it? Anything tricky I should know? Thanks.

[4-G-rim]

I think Seth has..but has trouble fitting the shifter cables. I think Mindless is in the process of doing a swap. Sorry..not much help broskee

[seth98esT]

I "did" it but its not complete yet. Everything is easy, first start inside the car and work your way out. Remove the brake pedal, cut the hold in the firewall. Id say a holesaw would be best id you can get it up in there. The holes are already marked, just cut em out. Next install the master cylinder, clutch and brake pedal. Now uninstall your shifter, and shifter cables. Drop in the 5spd cables, bolt in the 5spd shifter assembly, and hook up the shifter cables.

Now thats all for the insides...

Disconnect everything from the tranny, drain its fluid, remove your air box is necasary. Now you have to remove the axles to remove the tranny. I followed the VFAQ and did some improvising. Remove the cotterpins at the end of the axles, loosen the two endnuts, they are 32mm. I bought a huge 3/4" breakerbar and 32mm socket from Farm and Home. Now remove the long nut/bolt holding the lower control arm to the frame. After that just drop it out of its bracket. Now I think the only think preventing you from removing the hub assembly off the axle is the tie bar(not sure what its called). But you can go to auto zone and get a 2 prong tie bar separator once you remove the cotterpin and nut. Just stick it between the metal piece and rubber boot and push, might have to tap it with a rubber hammer. Once its removed the hub assembly will be free, but done take it off the axle yet, first disconnect the axle fromt he stransmission so it wont fall on you when you do. To pull the axle, put a large screwdriver or prybar between the axle end and tranny, and give it a quick jerk. It should pop the clip loose and then you slide it out of the tranny. Now just remove the axle.

NOW I dont know if you actually have to do all this or just pop the axle out and let it hang? I took mine out so they would be out of the way. But couldnt you just take off the axle nuts, pop them out of the tranny, angle them down a bit and just pull them from the hub? Hah I should go try it. Because you dont need to remove them unless your replacing them or a boot...

Remove the stock tranny. I think it is easiest to drop it out from under the car. Just get a hydrolic jack and they make a little adaptor for them for transmission so it will stay on the jack.

NEXT remove the torque converter and there is a little spacer that needs to be removed before the flypate can be installed. Ive never removed it, but 4g64terror seemed to heat it up with a torch and pulled it with vice grips. After the flyplate and clutch are installed, install the rear 5spd perdh on the tranny, install the mounts, all auto mounts are fine, and lits the tranny up from under the car and line everything up. Reinstall everything including axles connectors, shifter cables. Install the slave cylinder.

Now you are ready for the hydrolic clutch line. Either:

A) make your own out of brake line.
Buy a used one from a 5spd.
C) Make your own out of SS teflon line.

I am going with C) Here are the part numbers for the earls and aeroquip fittings needed:

#5. IF adapter
Earl's 581531 -3AN male to 3/8-24 inverted flare male adapter.


#4. Female fitting
Aeroquip FCM1100 -3AN straight TFE female hose fitting. >> more


#3. Teflon racing hose
Aeroquip FCC0310 -3 teflon racing hose, 10ft. You don't need 10ft., you can order custom length(diff. p/n).


#2. Banjo
Aeroquip FCM3091 -3 TFE hose fitting, 10mm.


#1. Banjo bolt
Aeroquip FCM2921 banjo bolt 3/8-24 /w 2 crush washers.


You can order all these parts from Summit except for the earls part, its out of stock. Total comes to around $60.

Now the inhibitor switch. Im not sure where it is, havnet gotten to taht point yet. But just have to simply wire in a relay for the starter.

I *HAVE* a set of 2g turbo shifter cables. Bought brand new for $110. They are a tad long inside the cabin but you can get them to work if you want them. You missed out man, last week on eBay a guy was selling a complete AT->MT kit for $350, $500 buy it now. Just looked it up again and it did not sell. If you want, contact this guy and see if he still has it!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[josh_877]

so seth, do u not need the shifter brackets anymore?

[seth98esT]

I would like them! I DO need some 97/98 ecu pins if you just want to get me those. If I need the bracket, I just custom fab up a zip tie bracket for now :oops:

[peanotation]

thanks for the instructions seth, helped out alot. btw, i DID see the 5spd swap auction on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7924812057

it's started up again. i PMed you wanting your opinion on it, i know it's misssing some parts, but that's fine. it's the bulk of the parts i need.

also, how accurate is the vfaq tutorial for swapping?

[seth98esT]

Pretty accurate. I followed it for the most part.

[Edit]Pics work now.

[krazienluv10]

ohhh shit!!!!! i have enough money for that....

[peanotation]

ohhh shit!!!!! i have enough money for that....

i'm doing it for sure, wanna help me out

[krazienluv10]

if your bidding matt i wont bid any more nice find by the way...seth/peano

[Dark7GHawk]

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES DO YOU USE BRAKE LINE FOR THE HYDRAULIC LINES GOING FROM ACCUMULATOR TO SLAVE CYLINDER.

I have been back to a mechanic a day after I get that line fixed twice now due to the lines blowing out. SS Teflon is ok since it will expand a little with the clutch pressure and not actually break. But if you are going to use a hard line, make sure you use the Stock Mitsu item, which may require you to get the stock accumulator part as well. The accumulator is the resevoir that sits on the front of the tranny and has the hydraulic lines running to and from it. It acts as a damper for the pedal action. Not required, but helpful.

Suffice to say, standard brake line is not strong enough, nor does it have a good enough flare on it to work.

I have had the dealership make this mistake, along with at least 2 other mechanics. Now that I have a stock mitsu part on there I am enjoying the car much more, since it works. Also make sure to adjust the clutch pedal properly, it helps a lot to have some room on the bottom area of travel before it engages. Otherwise the instant your foot starts to move up the car starts to move forward. Not as good a thing as it sounds.


Any help you guys need from a stock 5spd, lemme know.

[krazienluv10]

hey seth are u currently using your car??? or is it just in the garage still waiting on more tranny parts...

[youngcs]

Wouldn't it be better to use the transmission from an eclipse cause I heard that they bolt right up to the 7g.

[youngcs]

Wouldn't it be better to use the transmission from an eclipse cause I heard that they bolt right up to the 7g and they the eclipse transmission is wa stronger then a 7g.

[peanotation]

Wouldn't it be better to use the transmission from an eclipse cause I heard that they bolt right up to the 7g and they the eclipse transmission is wa stronger then a 7g.

how could that be better than a 7G manual transmission? it's gauranteed to fit. seth has been saying the 7G parts bolt up better than the 2g. 2g parts will fit fine, but thats like saying a 1G dohc head will fit better than a GS dohc head. they'll both fit, but the GS head is 100% perfect, because it was made specifically for the car.

[seth98esT]

This is a question I asked Craig. 2g Turbo FWD tranny vs stock 7g tranny. He said to go with the 7g 5spd trannyhands down. He said I would like the gearing much better then the 2g turbo tranny as it is much taller. Between the 3(7g, 2gt, 2gnt spyder) the Galant has the tallest gearing. So thats just waht I am going with.

Also use some sort of synth fluid or syncro mesh fluid with your 5spd tranny.

[Mindless]

But if you are going to use a hard line, make sure you use the Stock Mitsu item, which may require you to get the stock accumulator part as well. The accumulator is the resevoir that sits on the front of the tranny and has the hydraulic lines running to and from it. It acts as a damper for the pedal action. Not required, but helpful.

Just an upgrade heads up. The SS line From Road Race Engineering will eliminate the "accumulator" and is probably cheaper than buying a stock part. The SS line only runs $20 plus shipping.

Pic of the SS line: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/c...clutchlines.jpg

Install instructions for the SS line:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instruc...nstructions.htm


Other good things to upgrade (cheap upgrades):

1. Shifter base bushings (On base of shift plate. You can get these from RRE)
2. Shifter bushings (At ends of shifter cables. You can get these off of ebay )
3. A good time to replace the clutch fork and fulcrom ball

Clutch fork and fulcrom ball pic:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/c...k_pivotball.jpg

Why you should replace your clutch fork:

Throw out bearing release forks can break. It is not common but always a possibility. If you are a paranoid person, if having to deal with a possible broken fork (tranny needs to come back out to change it) will be the end of the world for you, then consider spending the extra $65 in parts to replace the release fork and pivot ball.
Breakage can happen on a stock clutch but a flawed fork, or it can happen on a big clutch with a good fork but with a lot of time on it.

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way.
When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

Good idea to...

1. Purchase a new slave cylinder
2. Purchase a new master cylinder

You can get these new for the same price or cheaper than buying them used. So you might as well get new units.

Good read:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutcha...lywheeltech.htm

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(krazienluv10)</div><div class='quotemain'>if your bidding matt i wont bid any more nice find by the way...seth/peano</div>

bastard! retract your bid! tell me though, how much did you bid? i want this thing so bad. i saw your name and i was just thinking "wait...i know someone with that name.....oh that bastard"

[krazienluv10]

retracted... just for u ... HAPPY!!!!

[seth98esT]

O yah, replace your pivot ball, clutch fork, and use a mitsubishi throw out bearing. Those are all cake to install