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Reply With QuoteWell whenever you get the answer to all of this.... lets make this into a tutorial
i want to know if there is ANYTHING down to the nuts and bolts that I need on this list. this is just so I don't forget anything major while on the job. the list is mostly based on a member who had a post about building his '64 and also turboing. so here is a combo of his and mine but i'm creating an all motor application so you know:
2G DOHC HEAD 2.0L(still doing head swap this winter)
PORTED(save for turbo)
5-ANGLE VALVE JOB(save for turbo)
CROWER CAMS(save for turbo)
AEM CAM GEARS(save for turbo)
GASKET MATCHED PORTS(save for turbo)
4G64 BLOCK
HOT TANKED/CLEANED
PORT/POLISH
BORED .020 OVER
8.5:1 ROSS PISTONS BORED OVER .020<--so stock?
CROWER RODS (4G63 7 BOLT 2G)
ARP HEAD STUDS (11MM)
AUTOMETER OIL TEMP. GAUGE
AUTOMETER OIL PRESS. GAUGE
FUEL MANAGEMENT
660 DENSO INJECTORS(save for turbo)
190 WALBRO FUEL PUMP
APEXi SAFC II
AUTOMETER A/F RATIO GAUGE
UGO WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR
BRAIDED FUEL LINES
EXHAUST/INTAKE
CUSTOM COLD AIR INTAKE
OBX DTM STYLE MUFFLER
OBX HIGH FLOW CAT
4G63 N/A HEADER
4G63 N/A DOWNPIPE
AUTOMETER EGT GAUGE
IGNITION
NGK SPARK PLUGS
MSD INGNITION
MSD BLASTER COIL
ACCEL SPARK PLUG WIRES (8MM)
97/98 ALTENATOR
Well whenever you get the answer to all of this.... lets make this into a tutorial
when is we gon be free????
Not going to turbo it? If not, you need to make several changes to your list. For example, the injectors and fuel pump would be a waste of money. Also, gasket matching the ports on the head would cause a decrease in power unless you are running in excess of 20 psi of boost. The ARP head studs are probably not necessary on a N/A motor. Also, a higher compression ratio than 8.5:1 would be a better choice in a non-turbo engine. If you're going to do all this work, why not turbo it?Originally Posted by shogun7g
no turbo....all motor. not even slightly larger injectors though? thanks again.
steve
if you had a bigger bore maybe larger injectors...but yeah...definitely higher compression....i dont know what your compression is stock...but raise it for an n/a motor....
since your planning on going n/a, you might want to try and get ahold of dukeplaya aka n/a SOHC 4g64 god :shock:
when is we gon be free????
what compression do you think then
stock is 9.3 or 9.5:1, not too sure. You could just shave the head to raise the compression ratio. Why no turbo?
if you're not going to go turbo (dumb) and go all motor, get higher compression pistons that stock (duh). also, let me know what body organs you're selling to pay for all of this
If you're dead set on staying N/A, good for you.
Definitely PM dukeplaya31 if you have specific questions. He'll be able to answer most if not all.
If you want power, go turbo. No questions asked. You will be disappointed if you do not. Stock compression is 9.5:1 so go with higher comp pistons then that if you are staying NA, but 8.5:1 is fine for turbo. Why not turbo? Your spending all this money to build your motor to handle power and you wont ever take advantage of it being NA. Buy a $550 EVO3 16g and supporting mods and your set.
7g for life!
neh i dont think he'll stay N/A....the good thing to do is over-builed ur engine and whenever u wanna go turbo, u wont have to worry bout if ur engine can handle it
that's exactly why guys....neh i dont think he'll stay N/A....the good thing to do is over-builed ur engine and whenever u wanna go turbo, u wont have to worry bout if ur engine can handle it
i want to run this way for a while, see what happens... then when more funding comes in over the summer(summer after graduation-yaaaay!!), I will then go turbo if that is what my mind is set on. I really want to make a car, or Galant for that matter, that everyone will remember and would like to be in a few magazines and shit like that. Of course, that's a long time from now. but you guys are great helping me along the way. thanks
keep the info comin on that list.....
steve
yea i knew it, im always right!
Well man alls I can say is dont over due it. Dont spend $300 on 660 injectors that you do not need. I wouldnt even buy the cam or cam gears untill you are turbo. Build up the bottum end and run a stock head untill you are ready to turbo. That way you do not spend what is not needed. The bottum end is where it needs to be the strongest anyway. You do not even need to build the head untill you are in the high 400+whp range. Also, you will probably benifit more from a 2g turbo head then a 1g head if you stay NA.
If I were you, I would build the bottum end, aftermarket rods and pistons, head studs, still hot tank the block and bore over .020, but just run a stock head for now. Grab the 660cc injectors a medium/small turbo, 2g manifold and an aftermarket FMIC/piping kit. You would be much MUCH happier to do this instead of building the whole engine and just running NA.
7g for life!
That would be going outta your way though, wouldn't it?
when is we gon be free????
How so? just run a stock head till you have to change the timing belt(1 year or so) and by that time he would have most of the necisarry bolt ons and recovered financially and be able to afford a nice built head.
7g for life!
my bad seth... i posted like a sec after you did, haha...
when is we gon be free????
yea i still say to over-build the engine, just be smart about it, dont waste ur money on unnecessary parts.
As others have said, build the bottom end and turbo it. If you use stock parts for the turbo, you should be able to do it cheap. Then upgrade from there. You'll gain a lot more power by doing that, than you would by staying N/A.
If you do everything on your list, you are less than $1,000 away from being turbocharged. Considering that your list has about $6,000.00 worth of parts and machine work on it, what's another grand?
I'm not trying to talk you into changing your plans, just want you to look at how close to being turboed you would be.
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