Clunking Metal on Metal/Plastic Noise

**4-G-rim** · 02-12-2005, 11:57 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SamirDarji)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thank you for the reply. Â*I did some searches but never came across your thread. Â*

I'm going to remove my pulley in the next few hours and hopefully get down to the Mitsu dealer and get a replacement.

Did yours completely separate like that or did you have to force it apart?</div>

My totally seperated...check out the pics on the thread I linked. I have a pic of the center H balancer completely seperated from the belt track pulley.

**bronxbombr** · 02-13-2005, 09:31 AM

That is "Do Not Put Off" problem, get it fixed fast. It is very easy to change if you have the right tools.

Proto · 02-13-2005, 11:49 AM

socket wrench, 12mm socket, 6" extension

SamirDarji · 02-13-2005, 01:14 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(4-G-rim)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SamirDarji)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thank you for the reply. Â*I did some searches but never came across your thread. Â*

I'm going to remove my pulley in the next few hours and hopefully get down to the Mitsu dealer and get a replacement.

Did yours completely separate like that or did you have to force it apart?</div>

My totally seperated...check out the pics on the thread I linked. I have a pic of the center H balancer completely seperated from the belt track pulley.</div>I noticed that. Mine doesn't seem to have done that yet as it is still in one piece and I couldn't get it to wobble when I tried to force it by hand.

But the car is up on ramps, the belts are off, the pulley is disconnected from the crank. Now I just have to lower the engine a bit to clear that extra 1mm for the pulley to come off. While I was in there, I noticed no oil around the crank, but I did see oil near the filter and part of the pan.

I also noticed by side and front motor mounts bushings cracked.

What I'm really wondering is did Mitsu redesign the part to not fail like that again. I know they redesigned the lifters to eliminate the tick, and I know Nissan improved their parts as well. If Mitsu redesigned it, I'd be inclined to get the factory part. The other route I'm thinking of is an aftermarket pulley that is lighter, yet the same size as stock.

SamirDarji · 02-13-2005, 01:16 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'>That is "Do Not Put Off" problem, get it fixed fast. It is very easy to change if you have the right tools.</div>Most definitely easy. I have the service manual so that's even better. The hardest thing was actually the routing of the belts to remove them. Everything else was a snap. Too bad all cars pulleys aren't like this. The Altima pulley is killer hard to get to.

Hopefully I'll be up and running by Tuesday.

SamirDarji · 02-13-2005, 01:35 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Proto)</div><div class='quotemain'>socket wrench, 12mm socket, 6" extension</div>Don't forget the torque wrench. As with all other critical bolts on the car, the crank ones have a torque spec.

secondgenntrip · 11-10-2005, 05:30 PM

Originally Posted by SamirDarji

Originally Posted by Proto

socket wrench, 12mm socket, 6" extension

Don't forget the torque wrench. As with all other critical bolts on the car, the crank ones have a torque spec.

Any idea what the torque spec is for this, sounds like my current problem.
Thanks

**bronxbombr** · 11-10-2005, 07:04 PM

i'll look and post later.

spyder97gs · 11-10-2005, 11:10 PM

If they are tightened down well they shouldnt be a problem, more than likely you need a new pulley. They are about $75 from Napa, and high quality at that.