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Reply With Quotedunno about the modulator but u wont see 10 hp from an intake
Does anyone have any experience with the masses of piggyback modulators. They are supposed to connect to your IAT or water temp sensor and adjust fuel flow. I have heard a lot of these are scams, but I heard of a few that worked, but I can't remember which ones. I talked with Rob, who makes the Juice Box, he basically guaranteed me at least 10 whp. and said he will give me the thing for free. I told him that I would do a before and after dyno of the car and I will try to duplicate exact environments such as temp, humidity,ect. Has anyone tried this brand with good results on any car? I certainly hope his 10 whp claim is true because when Weapon is ready for the MAF adapter for the Secret intake, This should give a 20+ H.P. increase and a nice little kick.
dunno about the modulator but u wont see 10 hp from an intake
what?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>what?</div>
what?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Serstylz2)</div><div class='quotemain'>dunno about the modulator but u wont see 10 hp from an intake</div> Intake should be at least 5-8 H.P. at the crank. CPE developed a intake and MAF mod for the Mazda 6 6Cyl that puts out 20+ H.P. They can make a similar mod for the 9th gen Galant but they want at least 10 people to lay down cash advance.
the 20+hp that they made for the mazda 6, is that also at the crank or is that at the wheels. if its at the crank, then that doesn't suprise me. a regular afteremarket wai or cai can make those kinda results at the crank.
theyre crap.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>the 20+hp that they made for the mazda 6, is that also at the crank or is that at the wheels. if its at the crank, then that doesn't suprise me. a regular afteremarket wai or cai can make those kinda results at the crank.</div>
has to be at the crank. i want to see an n/a car get 20whp from an intake
shit, 20 at the wheels is crazy.
-Chris
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>the 20+hp that they made for the mazda 6, is that also at the crank or is that at the wheels. if its at the crank, then that doesn't suprise me. a regular afteremarket wai or cai can make those kinda results at the crank.</div> I'm not sure, but I think it's whp. I know they have some in depth disscusions on this at the Mazda 6 forums, but I'll look into it. Even if it is at the crank, 20+ H.P is pretty darn good for a CIA and MAF tweak!
that CIA can do anything, they are watching us.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(manybrews)</div><div class='quotemain'>theyre crap.</div> Please explain! Are you talking about the modulator or CAI? I was thinking about this, and wouldn't changing to a cooler operating thermostat accomplish the same thing?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Serstylz2)</div><div class='quotemain'>that CIA can do anything, they are watching us.</div>HA Ha! EXCUSE ME! I meant CAI. But you know, they are still watching anyway.
things that "modify" the signal from the air temp or coolant temp sensor do nothing but run the risk of engine and/or catalytic converter damage.Originally Posted by Torque&Scoot
Please explain! Are you talking about the modulator or CAI? I was thinking about this, and wouldn't changing to a cooler operating thermostat accomplish the same thing?
you DONT get more power, period. they dont do anything but screw up the correct fuel map.
a CAI? its also a fact that you MAY get one or two HP with them. thats it. otherwise, all you get is a lot of induction noise. for some people, thats enough of a reason to get one. Not for me. plus, if you use a low mounted CAI, you run the very real risk of water induction resulting in engine failure if you experience a heavy rain and/or deep puddle.
Dont forget you can use the "splash guard" lol it can divert alittle water, I think injen makes it..could be wrong. I personally ran the Low mounted CAI for years only ran into a serious problem once when it snowed, had to changed the plugs and I was good to go...they rusted something ugly car ran like shit before I changed the plugs too
Not with a Cold air induction that is designed correctly and has the TUNING to back it up! RRE for example. With a well tuned system I think you will get more than a few H.P.things that "modify" the signal from the air temp or coolant temp sensor do nothing but run the risk of engine and/or catalytic converter damage.Please explain! Are you talking about the modulator or CAI? I was thinking about this, and wouldn't changing to a cooler operating thermostat accomplish the same thing?
you DONT get more power, period. they dont do anything but screw up the correct fuel map.{Quote} Well you might as well forget about tuning a car then, because that's what you have to do to gain power! The key is safe reliable tuning!
a CAI? its also a fact that you MAY get one or two HP with them. thats it. otherwise, all you get is a lot of induction noise. for some people, thats enough of a reason to get one. Not for me. plus, if you use a low mounted CAI, you run the very real risk of water induction resulting in engine failure if you experience a heavy rain and/or deep puddle.
the mopar intake for the sRt 4 gets 20 at the wheel
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This may be true for certain engines, but is definitely not correct across the board. Many intakes actually do make some serious power. I think it's too soon to say that an intake for the 3.8 in the 9G is useless.things that "modify" the signal from the air temp or coolant temp sensor do nothing but run the risk of engine and/or catalytic converter damage.Please explain! Are you talking about the modulator or CAI? I was thinking about this, and wouldn't changing to a cooler operating thermostat accomplish the same thing?
you DONT get more power, period. they dont do anything but screw up the correct fuel map.
a CAI? its also a fact that you MAY get one or two HP with them. thats it. otherwise, all you get is a lot of induction noise. for some people, thats enough of a reason to get one. Not for me. plus, if you use a low mounted CAI, you run the very real risk of water induction resulting in engine failure if you experience a heavy rain and/or deep puddle.
This "module" that you are talking about basically tells the computer the incoming air temperature is colder than it is...
It might work, it might not, but here's the kicker, the car's got a set of fuel maps (or might constantly change, not sure, I just got my car).
Your car, when it's cold out side, WILL work better, because the air is denser creating more power; we all know the drill, however, the engine compensates for that so predetonation doesn't occur, you add this little sucker I can almost guarantee it will and say bye bye warranty for sure.
The aftermarket intakes are there to increase the noise, that's about it, sure on some cars the noise reduction methods on certain cars are worse than others (from the looks of it, it looks like we have two silencer boxes throughout our intake tract) which removing those out probably would net a few RWHP, but anything past that I doubt it...
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