Tearstone

[galantv600]

one of the shops that has done things to my car, and a lot of buddies dsm's, they showed me that kit and called it the Doug Dyno

Doug Dyno has the best parts, All made my him!!! he has been in 3-5 Sport Comp Mag and more, He had a 650 HP Galant Vr4, All he owns and drives are DSM's So you cant go wrong with he product!!!! Just a little info

^GUY AT MY SHOP

For anyone that wants dsm or mitsubishi parts I strongly recomend going through Doug's Dyno Power. I have been buying parts from him for the past 5 years and as far as quality and being honest goes he is by far the best. Also anytime iv'e ever had a question about his parts or just somthing mitsubishi related he has never hesitated to answer me and explain in full detail. Hopefully his website will be updated soon, he said he's working on it, but you should check it out. Also you can call us if u want any of his products and we can order them for u directly to the shop. Here is the link.

^Owner of turbo shop

http://www.ddynopower.com/

[Jet Black]

[quote=galantv600]one of the shops that has done things to my car, and a lot of buddies dsm's, they showed me that kit and called it the Doug Dyno

ive been reading on turbos for a long time just because i dont like dealing with the belt slip problems i hear about from the SDS. does everyone agree this setup would be good for a daily driver application. i drive my car everyday but also go the drag strip sometimes. also, is that one of those small Honda batteries i see in the galant on the home page. the battery is abotu half the size the stock one. would that still be adequate?

Afaik, this kit is pretty much bulletproof. Even for us auto guys. The owner/creator/distributor of the kit owns a sporty Eclipse, and thus far after about 10k, hes still hasn't had any problems (granted that he is swapping out for the 5spd ~ this is soley to make more power though).

[Tearstone]

Hey guys, I have not been to the TGC in ages but was told this thread was here. It looks as though ES Turbo has pretty much answered most of the questions.

Just so you all know, that the turbo setup on my 3rd Gen Eclipse GT is not like the kits that I sell on http://tearstone.com. My project has beeng going on a lot longer than this kit that I sale has been in existance. Although the group that makes the kits that I sale did my custom intercooler setup that I could not be happier with.

I'll do my best to make my way back overhere now that I see that you all are interested but typically the 8G guys have just enjoyed our company, progress and technical findings over on http://www.club3gfl.com and http://www.club3g.com.

Let me know if anyone has any further questions You can always email me at [email protected] for the quickest response.

Thank you!

[Serstylz2]

i got a question.. what kind of whp are we looking at for the budget 1699 kit w.out intercooling and a fuel management system? chances are i'd have to get that 1st then get the other parts seperately down the road.

[Tearstone]

i got a question.. what kind of whp are we looking at for the budget 1699 kit w.out intercooling and a fuel management system? chances are i'd have to get that 1st then get the other parts seperately down the road.

That kit is so new we still do not have any numbers on that yet. Amazingly enough, that budget kit is installed on a 8G Galant and cooks the tires. Once we get some #s, they will be posted on the website.

[DOHCstunr]

that would be horrible for a daily driver. i can't cruise at anything over 80mph without my egts taking a shit all over everything because the turbo is boosting a little by then. 3000rpm is way too low.

Just because the turbo is capable of reaching full spool at 3000 rpm does not mean that it will be building boost at 3000 rpm all the time. When you are cruising at 80 mph you are only at part throttle which means two things, one, there is not enough exhaust energy at part throttle to fully spool the turbo, and two, the b.o.v. is seeing vacuum at part throttle so it is open and recirculating any pressure that is in the system.

If you have such a small turbo that it will spool down around 2000 rpm than what I posted above does not apply. With a smaller turbo it will take less exhaust energy to spool the turbo and you may see some boost at higher speeds. At that point there can be enough pressure in the intake manifold to keep the b.o.v. closed and you'll start to see boost.

Here's an example from my ES. On the highway at 80 mph, if I ease into the throttle, or if I have the cruise control on and start to go up a slight incline, you will hear the turbo spool immediatly after you give it a little more gas than it took to go 80 mph. So the turbo is not spooled, the b.o.v. is open and the car is not building any boost at 80 mph. However, if you take the car up to 90 mph it's a different story. The turbo is spooled and you are building boost. The problem this causes is that the car is building boost at such a low throttle position that even though the fmu is raising fuel pressure, the computer is not opening up injector pulse at that low of a tps signal. If your not careful the car will detonate constantly at that speed. If it was intercooled it probably wouldnt be a problem but I don't have it intercooled. Keep in mind that I have a turbo that reaches full boost at 2000 rpm. Take that up to 3000 rpm and you will not see any of these problems. (until maybe around 120 or so, but who cruises at 120?)

the bov valve does not stay open under non boost conditions. only right after you close the throttle after building boost.
but on higfhway driving like you mentioned, or any cruising speed for that matter, your bov will stay shut(even while the plenum is seeing vaccuum). principally because the spring of the bov is going to keep the valve sealed. Thevaccum thats created between shifts or hen you let off the throttle during shifts only starts the bov opening sequence. the boost pressure in the charge pipes itself is what blows open the valve to relieve pressure. the vaccum works with the boost pressure overide the pressure of the spring. and when there is boost in the plenum, boost pressure in the bov source line works with the spring to keep it closed.
just thought i would clarify that piece of information

[Serstylz2]

i got a question.. what kind of whp are we looking at for the budget 1699 kit w.out intercooling and a fuel management system? chances are i'd have to get that 1st then get the other parts seperately down the road.

That kit is so new we still do not have any numbers on that yet. Amazingly enough, that budget kit is installed on a 8G Galant and cooks the tires. Once we get some #s, they will be posted on the website.

keep us updated

[ES-Turbo]

the bov valve does not stay open under non boost conditions. only right after you close the throttle after building boost.
but on higfhway driving like you mentioned, or any cruising speed for that matter, your bov will stay shut(even while the plenum is seeing vaccuum). principally because the spring of the bov is going to keep the valve sealed. Thevaccum thats created between shifts or hen you let off the throttle during shifts only starts the bov opening sequence. the boost pressure in the charge pipes itself is what blows open the valve to relieve pressure. the vaccum works with the boost pressure overide the pressure of the spring. and when there is boost in the plenum, boost pressure in the bov source line works with the spring to keep it closed.
just thought i would clarify that piece of information

What your saying is not true in the situation that we were discussing. At speed on the highway, with a small turbo, the turbo is spinning fast enough to build boost but at part throttle the manifold is still seeing vacuum. The combination of those two, in that scenario can and will open the b.o.v. until you go to wide open throttle. This is assuming you are using an o.e.m. type b.o.v. like a bosch unit. If you have an aftermarket b.o.v., like a GREddy or similar, and you've tightened down the spring pressure with the adjustment screw than the b.o.v. can be kept closed in that situation. I'm not theorizing here, I drive the car everyday and there is no mistaking the sound it makes when the b.o.v. is open while cruising.

[DOHCstunr]

oh i didn't realize you were referring to crappy stock leaky bov's in your explantation.

i get that sometimes, but only if i spool the turbo ever so slightly then back off the throttle, as you would do to maintain highways speeds on steep grades.

[ES-Turbo]

oh i didn't realize you were referring to crappy stock leaky bov's in your explantation.

How many of those "crappy stock leaky bov's" have you had fail? I have a brand new Bosch b.o.v. on my car and it performs flawlessly. If they are good enough for turbocharged Porsche's and they are good enough for Vortech to send with every one of it's supercharger kit's than I'm sure they are capable of providing our Galant's with years of trouble free use. The one on my car even sounds every bit as good as a GReddy, or similar, b.o.v.

[peanotation]

yeah, but if it's "leaking" boost, which it sounds like it is, then it's the equivalent of a 2g bov. not the highest caliber. it shouldn't be leaking while cruising.

[DOHCstunr]

always hostility in the forums. the plastic bov's are fine i suppose if you are running low psi. but 2nd gen mitsu bov leak at stock boost levels. can't say i agree with that. and i doubt that the 2nd gen mitsu bov was ordered built to the same specs as porsche may have demanded from bosch or whoever.
i don't care how a bov sounds. if it leaks it leaks. yours may not now, bu who knows if it will last. did you pay alot for your brand new bosch bov. if you did then thats silly cause you could have gotten a more performance inspired design that will hold more boost and relieve pressure possible better.
if you didn't pay much for your bosch bov well then there might be a reason for it being so inexpensive.

i think its great that you boosted your galant. i'm sure it is a blast to drive no matter what bov you have, after all its just a bov. but if your leaks cause you to lose power, and other malfunctions hand you compressor surge and a worn turbo thrust bearing, then i'm sure you'll do something about it. in that case rebuild your turbo, or buy a new one.
I would rather take preventative measures to better harness leak free power, adn protect my turbo from premature failure. even though i would like to replace it ith something larger; i want to do it when i am ready to do it, not when the turbo is ready.

[brandon]

So if I have a leaky BOV and am cruising, and not boosting... it is very possible that I would get spurts of higher vacuum, assuming the BOV should be closed during that time, correct?

[ES-Turbo]

The b.o.v. being open while cruising with a turbo this small is not a failure or a symptom of a cheap b.o.v. This conversation was originally about high speed cruising on the highway. In that situation it is working the way it was designed to. You can hear the b.o.v. recirculation stop as soon as you put the pedal to the floor, just like it's supposed to act.

The Bosch valves cost me $28.00, brand new in the box. I didnt put one on this car because it was cheap, I put it on there because that's all it needs on a 8-10 psi. non-intercooled turbo system. There is no power loss, and there is no possibility of pressure related turbo damage.This car has over 6,000 miles on it with the turbo system installed and has never showed one undesireable trait. I could easily put any number of other b.o.v.'s on the car but there simply is no reason for it on this application.

As a matter of fact, I've used this same b.o.v. on 500 w.h.p. mustangs with no problems at all. I've also used Vortech ones on similar h.p. cars, and GReddy ones, and Turbonetics ones. Come to think of it, I've never actually came across a b.o.v. related problem. Just lucky I guess?

[DOHCstunr]

The b.o.v. being open while cruising with a turbo this small is not a failure or a symptom of a cheap b.o.v. This conversation was originally about high speed cruising on the highway. In that situation it is working the way it was designed to. You can hear the b.o.v. recirculation stop as soon as you put the pedal to the floor, just like it's supposed to act.

The Bosch valves cost me $28.00, brand new in the box. I didnt put one on this car because it was cheap, I put it on there because that's all it needs on a 8-10 psi. non-intercooled turbo system. There is no power loss, and there is no possibility of pressure related turbo damage.This car has over 6,000 miles on it with the turbo system installed and has never showed one undesireable trait. I could easily put any number of other b.o.v.'s on the car but there simply is no reason for it on this application.

As a matter of fact, I've used this same b.o.v. on 500 w.h.p. mustangs with no problems at all. I've also used Vortech ones on similar h.p. cars, and GReddy ones, and Turbonetics ones. Come to think of it, I've never actually came across a b.o.v. related problem. Just lucky I guess?

if it doesn't surge/flutter or leak its okay in my book

[ES-Turbo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>if it doesn't surge/flutter or leak its okay in my book</div>

My thoughts exactly!!

[Phil]

does anybody know what turbo size tearstone is using??